On the following should I grease, copperslip or nothing:

1. EBB
2. Alloy seatpost
3. Brake caliper bolts
4. Headset cups

Is there a rule to decide which to use?

Thanks

If it’s meant to move, grease (bearings etc). If it’s not meant to move, copperslip.

1 & 2 – copperslip (or really grease is fine too)
3 – threadlock
4 – the cups to the frame? Nothing

I guess some rocket scientist will be along to correct me but the basics are that grease is not compressable and should be used in roller bearings where it sits between the balls and lubricates the rolling action. Copper anti seize is compressible and goes on threads to stop them seizing due to oxidisation. So use on bolts,etc and the seat post. The moot point is that there are some components that need to be prevented from moving such as EBB.Maybe a smidge of anti sieze will make disassembly easier.

Grease for lubrication, copper slip to prevent siezure of a component in situ.

Why not to grease headset cups? I started to grease after my bearings welded themselves to the headset cups.

Bencooper +1

Headset cups need copperslip unless you plan to scrap them along with the frame. This creates a dilemma if you have a carbon frame using normal press-in cups. I may be tempted to fit dry in this situation.

Brake calliper bolts usually have threadlock installed at the factory (the blue or green ‘paint’ on the thread) for this very purpose.
Shimano actually offer additional plastic security clips or stainless wire to fit through some drilled titanium XTR bolts. Super!

PaulD

what they say but i use copper on the headset cups for one day I may wish to remove them.

what they say but i use copper on the headset cups [ the side that touches the frame not the bearing side] for one day I may wish to remove them.

I’ve never had a problem removing headset cups.

neither have I 😀

neither have I 😀

Touche 😉

seatpost – if you are a dropper grease, if not copperslip

Somethign allong these lines

Sliding bits – grease with ptfe
ball bearing bits – grease with that stuff that makes it smell like eggs and go stringy
potentialy rusty bits and stuf that needs to move occasionaly – grease (more tenacious and waterproof the better).

Want to sound like a victorian engineer or found a big tub in grandads garrage – copperslip
Want to sound like you’re OTT about maintenance – molyslip

Copperslips intended for situations where either the parts get hot enough for the grease to run out, or going to stay put long enough outdoors that the grease washes away. A bike where 99% of the components need replacing in yearly timescales isn’t going to need copperslip. the exception might be cleat bolts as they do get quite a hard life.

Really, with 20 years experience building bikes for a living, I just slap boat trailer bearing grease on everything.

That’ll make for a nice gritty chain!

I had a customer years ago who swore by “taxi grease” – it was tar, basically.

Anyway, BTB grease on stuff that needs greased*, Profi Drylube on stuff that needs oiling.

*Like crank tapers 🙂

http://www.ciclipinarello.com/else/garanzie/PinarelloENGLISHweb.pdf

“THREADS, THREAD-LOCKERS, GREASE AND TIGHTENING TORQUES
One of the most debated issues is the coupling of threaded parts; in particular it is debated if threads should be a) degreased or b) lubricated or c) treated with thread-lockers, and what is the proper torque to be applied in each of these cases.
In line of principle, we expect threaded couplings to remain stable/tight over time with no loosening, we expect that they can be taken apart when necessary, we expect that they do not generate noises due to micro-movements of the parts, we expect them not to develop corrosion.
Corrosion, that can be a big problem because it can seize or damage threads, it is frequent between different metals (titanium-aluminum,
steel-aluminum). In the past there were no alternatives and grease was used in the threads, to fulfill all four needs. But grease facilitates
loosening, does not last forever, migrates, changes characteristics, is washed away, does not always offer sufficient corrosion protection, and reduces noises only temporarily.
Thread-lockers have been used for many years in mechanics. What is a thread-locker?
It is a liquid that is applied on the threads during installation and solidifies in the following hours. It is available in many “strengths”, but
for the bike it is preferable to use the weak one, Loctite® 222 or Arexons® System 52A22. Thread-lockers offer numerous benefits when used
on threaded couplings: 1) prevent undesired loosening without the need to use high tightening torques, 2) prevent corrosion in the interface,
3) prevent any micro-movement with associated noises, 4) they remain stable over time.
Thread-lockers solidify when air is absent, therefore the entire space between the threads must be filled with product, otherwise, if not
enough product is used, it will remain liquid.
Using a thread-locker stronger than recommended can seize the threads, especially bigger diameter threads.
Using the proper tightening torques it’s essential for correct function and to avoid loosening or structural damages. In certain cases tightening
torques ensure mechanical couplings, in other cases they prevent loosening. You authorized dealer will use, in
certain applications, the thread-locker and eventually apply a lower torque. Tightening torques are different if the thread is lubricated,
treated with thread-lockers or degreased. Most torques are specified by component manufacturers and appear in their instructions, but
carbon frames require special care during assembly and maintenance. To lubricate threads never use lithium based greases.”

http://www.sandsmachine.com/grease_t.htm

All good and well maccavity but go find me a spec that tells you what to reduce the torque by

Fwiw i deal with premium threads on a daily basis torquing things to 20 or 30k ft lbs.

Thread has a specified torque values depending on the specication of the api pipe dope im using. – never seen anything on lubricants for bike

When im dealing with my bike i copper slip ( and it is copperslip … Decanted from a large tub 😉 ) and then i tighten to ” snug”

Torque wrench only comes out for carbon equipment – usually the rating is so low i like to use loctite on it to ensure it stays at that torque

Pinarello.. who are they, what do they know?

Copaslip (copper grease) good for 1100 degrees C, must be the right stuff for a bike then.
http://www.molyslip.co.uk/anti_sieze_compounds/

Ah, that takes me back to that most vexing question – to lubricate or not lubricate the taper on a ST BB? Who could forget all the corresponding angst about the lubrication’s effect on maybe allowing the cranks to move further up the axle, and then the attendant problems for the bolt tension / premature failure / horrible death et cetera.

*sigh* they were the days … 😉

I use grease for stuff that moves and ‘copperslip’ for stuff you don’t necessarily want to move, until you do (like headset cups). I do like a bearing grease for bearings tho’, not too thick, not too sticky, not too thin – sometimes comes in interesting colours too.

Aye but it isnt free

Having built up a few Pinarellos, I wouldn’t trust their engineers any further than I could throw them.

Grease is good enough for everything on a bike (except chains of course, and no need on press fit parts like headsets either).

If you need to feel you are using the right part for the job then coppaslip on parts to stop corrosion (tho I think lanolin is unbeatable on SPD bolts).

Copper grease may cause galvanic corrosion when used between two different types of metal. Or so a quick google search revealed.

My chemistry days being far behind me can anyone expand further on this??

Have heard that too. Hence I always use grease.

http://www.sandsmachine.com/grease_t.htm

I’ve still got one syringe of the genuine DuPont stuff left – it only gets used on S&S couplings. Absolutely incredible stuff, but scary expensive.

Trail Rat,

You work to API standards but use copperslip?

It’s instant banning from site for anyone caught with the stuff here, even an old tub in the back of the van. Plenty of other similar but non copper based alternatives that are Ok though.

Copperslip + heat + hydrocarbons = explosions

We dont drill on site nor do we process hydrocarbons

We do have alot of bfo manufacturing machinery on site.

Bet pipe dope would do a good job of making sure you didnt get siezing or galling in you bb . Shame most api dopes are fairly grim for the enviroment / skin / cancerous

koolkurt – Member
Copper grease may cause galvanic corrosion when used between two different types of metal. Or so a quick google search revealed.

My chemistry days being far behind me can anyone expand further on this??

The process involves conduction of electricity – made easier by the copper. I have also read there’s more to it!