I thought there was something on the JRA site about which tyres (brands?) worked well with tubeless kits and which didn't. I've searched (for as long as I can stand reading white text on an orange background) but can't find it.

Anyone know where it is?
Or rememeber the info?

I know it's 'two sides of the same coin' but I'm more interested in what to avoid that what's recommended.

IIRC Maxxis are good as they have a reasonable bead and nice rubbery sidewalls. Panaracer are bad as they have loose beads so are difficult to seal.

http://www.notubes.com/support_tire.php?

IIRC Maxxis are good as they have a reasonable bead and nice rubbery sidewalls. Panaracer are bad as they have loose beads so are difficult to seal.

Good – as a general rule I like Maxxis and don't like Panaracer.

I've got Specialized 2Bliss tyres on my wheels (came with the bike) and they are on non-tubeless DT420SL rims.

They went up really easily & stayed up. Only did them last weekend so can't really comment on longevity, resistance to popping off the rim, sidewall stiffness etc. but they feel fine so far.

I've got a Purgatory 2.2 on the front & a Control 2.0 on the back.

Another Specialized 2Bliss user here, cheaper than Maxxis and actually intended for use without tubes (hence “2Bliss”)…
Eskar and Captain – Control versions have both worked very well for me, will probably try some Storms this winter…

Maxxis ADvantages were my staple 'ghetto' tyre although eventually I managed to out-clumsy them and holed the carcass (seated, singlespeed climbing over loose sharp rocks, don't think it was the tyre's fault…).

The Bontrager TLR range are the easiest tyres I've ever tubelessed but I tore my Jones ACX very quickly.

I've done a few Contis and they were all good with the exception of the black chilli Rubber Queen, which was too porous. My friend has enjoyed some success with the above though.

…with the exception of the black chilli Rubber Queen, which was too porous…

Interesting.
I know this isn't a direct comparison but I've just put some black chilli compound tyres on my road bike and am very impressed with them so I had thought about getting some for MTB.

Schwalbe work better than anything I've tried. The Spesh 2Bliss ones can be too baggy. Bontrager TLR ones work very nicely too.

Basically you want a tight fit, if the tyre's too loose on the rim, an extra turn of tape will likely get it to go up.

I have used Continental Mountain Kings and Race Kings, both the Supersonic Black Chilli versions, and they both worked fine. Is use the Cafe Latex to seal them (reviewed in STW this month)

They were all fitted with just a track pump as I don't have a compressor.

Schwalbe Albert and Fat Alberts work well – seal well, don't leak etc. and a decent tough sidewall.

I run a Fat Albert up front (ghetto) and a Fat Albert UST on the rear (taped rim).

Wife runs Alberts (ghetto) both ends.

see bike24.com

I wouldn't use an Advantage myself (and I have tried) – sidewall is too flimsy.

I wouldn't use an Advantage myself (and I have tried) – sidewall is too flimsy.

Having finished a ride recently and looked down to see a black 'slug' of tube sticking through my ADvantage sidewall, I'd agree.

It's upset me a little as I really liked them 'til then but the other one on that bike and another on another bike all have signs of the sidewall wearing out quicker than the tread.

p.s. I don't know why that upsets me but it does. If I get Xmonths hard riding out of a tyre and the treads gone I'll happily bin it. If the sidewall goes after Xmonths of hard riding but there's tread left, it seems a waste.

My Ardent's sidewalls didn't seem to last that well, but my Advantages are about 6 months old and look as good as new.

njee20 – Member
Schwalbe work better than anything I've tried. The Spesh 2Bliss ones can be too baggy. Bontrager TLR ones work very nicely too.

The Spesh Eskar 2Bliss that I've got on EX500 rims are far from baggy!

Higgo, the porosity is obviously not a bad thing necessarily, it just made it more difficult to tubeless them. I guess it depends on sealants as paul_m's experiences would suggest.

One reason I'm keen to ditch ghetto and move to full UST is the random performance of sealants, Stan's has repeatedly let me down, wheel milk solidified in weeks, Joe's couldn't seal microscopic pin holes, etc etc.

Re: the ADvantages, the sidewalls held up fine for me but I used them mostly on 'natural' rooty and loamy stuff so they rarely had to fend off big rocks.

I've already put two holes in the sidewalls of my UST ADvantages, hope it was just bad luck!

I really like the feel of Adv's 60a as an all-round tyre and they tubelessed OK. But the side wall goes thready much faster than the tread wears out. It's a shame. Is there a LUST version?

The Spesh Eskar 2Bliss that I've got on EX500 rims are far from baggy!

That being the problem with Spesh tyres (and Conti Supersonics) they're very inconsistent, some go straight up, some never will. So you'll get plenty of folk on here saying 'X work really well' rush off and buy some and be screwed.

That's from working in a Spesh dealer for 9 years and using UST since 2001, I knows my tubeless tyres 🙂

I've done at least 20 different pairs of Schwalbe tyres, all with a track pump!

For what it's worth 2Bliss Eskar's went up very easily for me with a track pump on Stans 355 rims.

Is there a LUST version?

Yes, but its 70a, thinner, and I've already holed the sidewall twice.

However, they have been a LOT of fun, the bike definitely feels faster and I haven't missed the softer compound, yet.

I'm hoping the damage I did to the sidewall was as a consequence of a leaking valve which meant I was always running it soft.

Ghettoed a Schwalbe Smart Sam on an Inbred rim a few weeks back. Went up fine wth a track pump, virtually no leaks and I didn't need to add any air at all after first inflation to 40PSI and leaving overnight (or since for that matter).

Always use Stans myself and it's been reliable across DT Swiss own system and on Mavic UST, running all sorts of non UST tyres.

Only reason I mention it is that I've been quite impressed with the Smart sam tyre as a rear despite it sitting on the shelf for ages as it doesn't look up to much.

I think it's all been said above but as long as whichever tyre you choose has a sensible tyre wall strength/stiffness then you can get the advantages of low pressure running when you need it. So just avoid really light tyres that aren't UST ready/compatible. I've tried a Maxxis flyweight tyre and whilst it worked ok it holed through the tread pinch flat style.

I use Furious Freds at 295g with no problems, never punctured either.

It's more about the carcass, some are more porous than others. That's where Conti Supersonics fall down, they often (but again not always) just weep through the sidewalls. Older Michelins used to work really well, they'd hold air without any sealant, despite not being UST or anything.

Schwable are the only non UST tyres I'd be able to 'hand on heart' recommend. Everything else is pot luck

Schwable are the only non UST tyres I'd be able to 'hand on heart' recommend. Everything else is pot luck

Yes, that sums it up really!

That being the problem with Spesh tyres (and Conti Supersonics) they're very inconsistent, some go straight up, some never will.

I'd somewhat agree with that statement. My front tyre – Purgatory 2.2 goes onto the rim without the need for tyre levers at all.
The Captain 2.0 on the back required quite a heave on the tyre levers to seat.
But – even the 'baggy' front tyre inflated dead easy (with a track pump). As a tubeless 'virgin' I was almost a bit concerned how easy it inflated, thinking I must have done something wrong…..

The Bontrager TLR range are the easiest tyres I've ever tubelessed but I tore my Jones ACX very quickly.

Same here and I thought it was just my bad luck. Been on Maxxis High Rollers since and not had any issues on Bonty TLR rims.