Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)
  • What Loctite for rotors?
  • lovegoinguphills
    Free Member

    Seems to be a lot of different types. 242, 243 etc but which is the correct type for using on the rotor bolts?

    andyl
    Free Member

    I would suggest the 248 quick stick things (reasonable at halfords). Rotor screws have a tendency to seize but some threadlock should act as a barrier as well as stopping them undoing.

    RobHilton
    Free Member

    I use a dab of grease – to date no rotors have fallen off

    cp
    Full Member

    I don’t use anything and never had. Never any issues from the best bike to the winter-back-never-gets-cleaned

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Don’t use loctite, use anti seize or at the very least grease. Allows you to get the proper torque, folks who say you need loctite are the same folk that install bolts dry then wonder why they free off.

    robj20
    Free Member

    You should be using loctite that’s why new rotor bolts come with blue already on them.

    243 is better than 242 in that its resistant to oil.

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    Don’t use loctite, use anti seize

    You know Loctite do a hell of a lot more than superglue? Including a lot of anti-seize components:

    http://www.loctite.co.uk/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm

    I’ve use 243 for threadlocker on bike bolts and 648 bearing retainer in a not-quite-snug headset.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Grease works for me.

    One of these topics that’s really not worth arguing about.

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    Grease works for me.

    One of these topics that’s really not worth arguing about.

    🙂

    Grease has worked for me too, and Nothing At All has also been fine!

    RobHilton
    Free Member

    My rotors may have stayed in place, but my life has fallen to bits – maybe the grease is to blame?

    Well worth arguing about is binning the torx ones and only using allen headed.

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    Don’t use loctite, use anti seize

    Every rotor bolt I’ve ever bought has come pre- treated with a blob of threadlock. Do you carefully remove it and then apply anti-seize when you get a new rotor?

    CheesybeanZ
    Full Member

    Copper slip , not had a bolt undo itself yet .

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Nothing At All has also been fine!

    Until they seize in…

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Every rotor bolt I’ve ever bought has come pre- treated with a blob of threadlock. Do you carefully remove it and then apply anti-seize when you get a new rotor?

    No, I just brush the compound over it.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    222 for me if the bolts come with none or its worn off. In fact, if I use threadlock anywhere on the bike it’s 222. Low strength, breaking force can be achieved with hand tools and I’ve not had anything seize or rattle loose.

    lovegoinguphills
    Free Member

    Thanks for all your advice and opinions.

    gofasterstripes
    Free Member

    I just used the Mrs’ nail varnish. 😆

    integerspin
    Free Member

    I use Duralac on dissimilar metals.

    emyr
    Full Member

    Well worth arguing about is binning the torx ones and only using allen headed.

    Allen heads are an inferior design to torx for applying torque without camming out and damaging the tool or screwhead.

    Get torx.

    Alternatively, get Centrelock and a nice torque wrench.

    Stevet1
    Free Member

    wtf is camming out?

    gofasterstripes
    Free Member
    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Emyr + 1 (apart from centrelock!)

    seadog101
    Full Member

    Getting rid of the cheese like alloy ones normally found on bikes when first bought, and replacing with stainless still is a good move. And use some 243. Not only locks, but acts as an anti galvanic corrosion barrier too.

    RobHilton
    Free Member

    wtf is camming out?

    Telling your parents you’re gay in the east end

Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)

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