I've got some tubs for my new wheel build, I just went cheap with conti giros @ £18 or so.
I'm planning to put stans in there, and heard that tufo have removable valve cores which would make this easier. I also see that even the low-end tufo below is 260gm claimed - 65gm lighter than the giro.
Is it going to be much less durable, vulnerable to punctures etc?
I did a one week outback tour on mainly dirt roads in Oz on Wolber tubs 30 odd years ago without any problem. Just kept an eye on pressures at each stop.
I rode 20 miles each way across London to race 30 miles at Hillingdon most Tuesdays last "summer" on continental sprinters without a problem. I didn't put any sealant in but had a couple of cans of vittoria pitstop just in case.
Tufos are lighter because of their construction but also harsher losing a great deal of the point of tubs.
lighter but harsher? Seems counter intuitive.
what you building Al?
Some tubs are ruined by sealant - it depends on the construction/inner tube type (if it has one). I know to my cost. I had it explained to me by Peter Burgin who does tub repairs (advertises in CW).
lighter but harsher? Seems counter intuitive.
not necessarily. Imagine if they were made of a cured carbon fibre tube, rock solid but flipping light! tufos aren't made in the same way as any other tubs.
Interested as to why you went for tubs but then bought Giros. I'm a huge tub fan but even I'll admit that good clinchers will be nicer to ride as well as loads less hassle than cheap tubs.
I get that but you'd still think a lighter tire carcass would be more pliable.
Well I rode giros before and they rode way better than any tire I'd used, tho I am used to tubeless now so I may not feel the same!
Bear-planet x carbon.
Wondering whether to go £70 for gp4000's with puncture protection or £35 for sprinters without (and just buy more!).Only really going to be used for racing (until I can't be arsed swapping cassette and pads).
Tufos aren't pliable due to the carcass, the way it's made fully sealed makes it inflexible. They're only light due to the lack of a tube.
Ditch the Giros and put something nice on there, if you're going to use tubs then get the full effect and use something nice like a corsa CX Evo 320 or Veloflex.
Tufos are crap. Get something decent like Veloflex, Vittoria or Conti Sprinters. they will be miles better and are well worth the extra!
Interestingly my tubeless rims have lower sidewalls than the tubular rims...which might make them more comfy
Rorschach, GP4000s in tub version are seriously underwhelming, not very supple at all . They do grip in the wet though. If you have that kind of budget to play with, check these from planet-x: Corsa SC
be interesting to hear your comparison of your tubeless vs tubs al (albeit with lots of variables)
I've got Tufo tubs (can't remember the model, but they're £35 a piece) on my winter bike. Have stood up pretty well so far, maybe stuck around 600 miles on them including lots of turbo work and no problems yet. I do however carry some sealant and the core removal tool in the saddlebag but not needed it yet. Grip seems really good and I've no complaints about the ride quality
On another note, I don't run my with sealant in all the time as I've had a couple of issues where its prevent the tyre from being inflated. So it'll just be used when I get a puncture...
If you've got tubeless wheels what's your thinking with going back to tubs (especially if you're planning to put sealant in them)?
I've got three sets of tubeless road wheels (fulcrum zeros and 2 stans)and having ridden a variety of good quality clinchers and tubs over the years there's no way I would go back to either over the tubeless set up (particularly the faff of tubs).
The motivation was to lose 170gm rotating weight at the rim and 25 odd in spokes (24->20H front) and gain spoke tension (see below)
I am now wondering if there will actually be any significant benefit and I may try flogging the carbon rims!
The low tension limit on the stans is a bit of an issue though as the rear does not feel solid (it's on a hub with the NDS flange very close to the dropout, and so is very heavily dished), but I may just drill it out to 32H and re-build it on a 105 hub, that would add 75gm.
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