Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • Tubeless tyres – any benefit going UST on tubeless ready rims?
  • nickdavies
    Full Member

    New wheels are tubeless ready DT Swiss wheels and have a pair of valves. Been running them tubed since I got them and all is well but not massively keen on the maxxis tyres on them now so figured i’d go back to the trusty old rubber queens and maybe try tubelss at the same time.

    Not sure however whether to go UST or tubeless ready? I haven’t bothered so far as it just seems a massive faff with TR. I really can’t be bothered to shake and spin a wheel for 3 hours to get the gunk all around it. If I go UST is it less faffy? Or is UST only any good if the rims are also UST?

    plus-one
    Full Member

    Ust are much heavier but seal/hold air longer.. TR are lighter but may take bit longer to seal(I’ve used both) and not had an issue with tubeless ready

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    I prefer UST tyres. Less prone to burping at lower pressures and when run at lower pressures, side walls tend to be a bit more durable. They also tend to hold air a bit longer. Little heavier and a little more expensive but I think it’s worth it.

    postierich
    Free Member

    I still use sealant in my UST tyres you have to or whats the point!

    Ecky-Thump
    Free Member

    It depends what sort of stuff you’re riding…
    I’ve found most USTs to be a bit flimsy and sidewalls to get trashed in no time at all on the back.

    I’ve three bikes running tubeless. None with UST tyres.
    1. XC hardtail has a mud-X Tubeless ready on the back and a single ply Minion on the front. (SP seem as durable as UST)
    2. General purpose full sus has a dual ply Minion on the rear and a single ply Minion on the front
    3. Patriot has dual plys both ends.

    All with stans fluid. No fuss at all.
    All fine.

    emac65
    Free Member

    I really can’t be bothered to shake and spin a wheel for 3 hours to get the gunk all around it

    Err,one spin & a bit of twisting,2 minutes tops…

    chris_db
    Free Member

    Just chose any old tyre in my experience; they will all run tubeless.

    Probably “better” to go with UST or TLR – I currently run HD TLR on both my bikes and never have a problem with leakage or punctures.

    Chris

    mindmap3
    Free Member

    My tubeless ready Hans Dampfs seem to hold air well and we really easy to set up tubeless on my Easton wheels (UST rims). Seated and inflated fine with just a track pump.

    I’ve not tried running none tubeless tyres without tubes though.

    PimpmasterJazz
    Free Member

    Ust are much heavier but seal/hold air longer.. TR are lighter but may take bit longer to seal(I’ve used both) and not had an issue with tubeless ready

    FTFY. 😉

    Otherwise same deal here. USTs are undoubtedly less faff, but Bontrager and Spesh TR have been good too in my experience. Initially I ran USTs without gunk, but after a few punctures I’ve started adding a splash. USTs are also great if you ride anywhere rocky too as the sidewalls are generally tougher than TR.

    I’m also a far bigger fan of UST rims than Stan’s, which seem to be on this earth to taunt my tyre changing abilities.

    deadkenny
    Free Member

    Depends on your rims in my opinion.

    I’ve got Crank Brothers Iodines and run regular non-UST non-tubeless ready Minions and High Rollers (and just gone to HRII)… not a problem at all. Never burped and fine getting on the rim (I use CO2 to seat them though).

    A friend had some XC UST rims (might have been Mavic, not sure). Burped and blew off all the time. Same tyres.

    Skinny UST rims and chunky tubeless-ready / none-tubeless tyres just don’t go. UST tyres probably work, but they’re heavy and expensive.

    Sealant – absolutely necessary. OK, maybe you’d get away with it with UST but it would still be a help especially with small punctures. And no, you don’t need to faff with the wheels for hours to cover with sealant. Soapy water around bead for initial seal and a few scoops of sealant in, spin once, job done. It remains sloshy unless exposed to air, and as you ride it will coat the tyre inside.

    p.s. Maxxis stuff seems to be working out most reliable from what I’ve seen with people I know running tubeless. Also their non tubeless is pretty much known to be tubeless ready, and they are beginning to mark some as TR now anyway, more so with the bigger wheel sizes.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    nickdavies – Member

    I really can’t be bothered to shake and spin a wheel for 3 hours to get the gunk all around it.

    Neither can I, nor anyone else- just fit the tyre, give it a 2 second slosh if you feel like it, then go for a ride.

    nickdavies
    Full Member

    Never done it before – look online and seems to be quite a faff – continental take the biscuit with their ‘shake and rotate the tyre 25.4 times 14 times an hour over 3.2 hours’ video which really put me off!

    I’ll give it a bash, was just wondering if the UST makes a difference as conti’s TR tyres are reinforced protection + apex, whereas the UST doesn’t have that reinforcement. UST has less plies and a higher TPI so i’m buggered if I know which one is more durable!

    Thanks for the answers.

    fallsoffalot
    Free Member

    have run a fair few tyres ghetto tubeless none have been tr or ust,the rubber queen black chilly side walls were by far the worst to seal,but saying that once sorted was my favourite rear tyre

    deadkenny
    Free Member

    Pretty sure I read instructions, possibly Stans, or maybe it was the CB wheels, that says seat first, then fill with a few scoops, inflate, then ride. Sure it even says you don’t need to spin the thing at all. Riding does that anyway.

    The faffing about comes with gehtto conversions, though get it right and it’s not all that much hassle. Once up you won’t be messing about with it for a long time anyway, unless you like swapping tyres a lot or manage to punch a big enough hole in them that won’t seal and can’t be repaired from the outside. Chances are in that case you’ll whip out a spare tube and slap that in to get you going on the trail and leave that in until you get round to redoing it tubeless again. Did that once and frankly I was glad to be back to tubeless. Much better feel and was getting fed up of pinch flats.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

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