I’m not massively up to speed with this stuff as I just ride my bike these days rather than trawling the net for the latests fads but as a 1×9 user, these caught my eye.

Got questions though!
– Are they 1×10 only (assuming a 10 speed chain is narrower than a 9 speed one)? Planning on going 10 speed shortly anyway as there is limited life left in my chain/cassette.
– Do they completely remove the need for a chain guide of any description? Bike is a Five which gets chucked down all manner of rocky stuff so I do like the security of a chain guide but if I’m lugging around extra weight for nowt then I’d rather lose it.

Ta
Dave

– Are they 1×10 only (assuming a 10 speed chain is narrower than a 9 speed one)? Planning on going 10 speed shortly anyway as there is limited life left in my chain/cassette.

The raceface ones will do 9/10/11 I think, the internal width of the chains are all the same.

– Do they completely remove the need for a chain guide of any description? Bike is a Five which gets chucked down all manner of rocky stuff so I do like the security of a chain guide but if I’m lugging around extra weight for nowt then I’d rather lose it.

Mixed reviews, but mostly positive.
With a clutch mech seems you can definetly get away without having a guide. Though if you’re on a five you might have the clutch off?
PinkBike and a fair few other users have reported getting on ok with a normal mech and then thick/thin chainrings without a guide. This is the option I’ve gone for on my 1×9 but don’t have the parts fitted yet so can’t give any personal experience as to how well it really works.

It works on my Bandit, I’m running a 1×10 set up with the Works Components 34T ring and a clutch rear mech (no chain device of any kind is used).

So far I haven’t dropped a chain while riding stuff in the Lakes, Morzine and Scotland.

I’m running a 1×10 set up with the Works Components 34T ring and a clutch rear mech (no chain device of any kind is used).

I’ve got this set up (but with a 32T and Zee), not dropped a chain yet. Not bad for a HT on Ft Bill DH.

The raceface ones will do 9/10/11 I think, the internal width of the chains are all the same.

RF work with 9 speed but you can’t get a 9 speed clutch mech which you’ll need for complete confidence

why would having a 5 necessitate turning the clutch off?

works well on my five. yet to loose the chain.

why would having a 5 necessitate turning the clutch off?

A friend (well a few friends) have them and run them off. Something to do with the interaction of the clutched chain and how active the suspension is? (Possibly because the 5 is a single pivot and mech will prevent the suspension from working properly?)

Possibly because the 5 is a single pivot and mech will prevent the suspension from working properly?)

That’s the first time I have heard that one. Where are your mates getting their info from?

Where are your mates getting their info from?

No idea. Was asking if the clutch worked, told it was off because due to vague reasons above and I didn’t really question it. Sounded plausible.

My superlught is a single pivot, clutch mech engaged all the time, chain yet to come off

Orange don’t see a problem with clutch mechs on a Five. (and I’ve got one on my 224). The difference in resistance is enough to manage about 50g of flapping chain, it makes bugger all difference to the bike as a whole.

rOcKeTdOg – Member

RF work with 9 speed but you can’t get a 9 speed clutch mech

Though, you can run a 10-speed Shimano mech on a 9-speed SRAM shifter with just a little mod.

I’d have questioned the hell out of that one. FWIW it sounds as inplausible as it gets imo.

Why have a clutch-mech and have it turned off all the time…

The mind boggles.

Can you still buy 10 speed non clutch mechs? Either way, there must be a point of having an on/off lever, or it would always be on, surely?

Top of an Alp about to rip down the other side, I wasn’t questioning the logic too much tbh

Either way, there must be a point of having an on/off lever, or it would always be on, surely?

removing the rear wheel is considerably easier with it turned off.

removing the rear wheel is considerably easier with it turned off.

You learn something new everyday. As you can tell, I don’t have one 😛

Great – cheers everyone. Very useful stuff…

SRAM X9 clutch mech works on my Alpine and you can’t turn the clutch off on them. Now it’s silent (apart from the wheezing rider on climbs)

Tom KP

DBW have a look on here about 9 speed clutch mechs – it can be done without replacing your entire drivetrain. Just need a 9sp SRAM shifter, a Shimano clutch mech and a 6mm spacer – details can be found on numerous previous threads.

Just need a 9sp SRAM shifter, a Shimano clutch mech and a 6mm spacer – details can be found on numerous previous threads.

Ooh! I like the sound of this. What’s the shifting like? I take it this is with a 9-speed cassette and not a 10?

Some manufacturers of narrow/ wide chainrings require a 10 speed chain on an otherwise 9 speed drivetrain for the “chain grip” effect to work correctly with their rings (and apparently no loss of performance elsewhere).

Clutch mech would be a must IMO. I would also be very skeptical of any information suggesting the clutch needs to be off on certain frames… I would say it is just a case of being even more careful with getting the correct chain length

Hi DanW

On the chain subject regarding these rings.

9 and 10 speed chains have the same internal diameter, only the external diameter is different. 11 speed chains have a 0.1mm smaller internal diameter.

Thanks, Rick

Running a Works Component ring plus X9 Type 2 mech on both my c456 hard tail and bouncy Nomad. No guide on either now. Neither has dropped at all or even hinted at dropping and I’ve tried to find the gnarliest possible for them. Nomad did Bike Park Wales last week hurtling over the rock gardens there and no problem at all. By comparison last year I ran the Nomad at Stiniog with its old 2×10 set up and an mrp dual guide (2x pulley, no top guide) and it dropped all the time.

I run a 2×9 front ( SLX) with a 3 x9 front mech and shifter with a 10 speed cassette and shifter and 10 speed chain the latter is required as the 10 speed cogs are closer together. I also run an slx clutch mech absolutely brilliant no noise and no chain loss.

patriotpro – Member

Ooh! I like the sound of this. What’s the shifting like? I take it this is with a 9-speed cassette and not a 10?

Aye, 9-speed everything apart from the mech. Shifting is just normal really (sufficiently good that I got confused which bike was which, and tried to show a mate how the 9.5-speed works, on a bike that’s actually all 10-speed :lol:)

patriotpro – Member

Ooh! I like the sound of this. What’s the shifting like? I take it this is with a 9-speed cassette and not a 10?

HERE‘s the previous thread with all the info in

To answer your question – it shifts just like normal with the 6mm spacer it’s a bit off but bearable by all accounts without.

Can anyone tell me. I’m running 1×10 slx clutch mech but it seems a tad noisey as in the chain is not meshing on front sprocket. Am I meant to have a 10speed one or are they all the same. It’s a zee 36t one. By way I don’t run chain guide and it’s not thick/thin ring. Never drop chain

ran my RF thick/thin last night on a 1×10 HT with a non-clutch mech. I was also using a bash ring and a n-gear jump stop. Not one dropped chain over some proper rocky, fast stuff, even on small sprockets. Very impressed.

Hi Rick,

On the chain subject regarding these rings.

9 and 10 speed chains have the same internal diameter, only the external diameter is different. 11 speed chains have a 0.1mm smaller internal diameter.

That makes complete sense and while 9 speed chains may be fine on your rings I just wanted to make users considering other brands aware that they may also need a new 10 speed chain to avoid disappointment. At, least that is according to another manufacturers blurb…

Can be used with 10 or 11spd chain only. If used in 1×9 drivetrain – 10spd chain must be used to obtain the performance. (yes – 10spd chain will work great on 9spd cassette)

For the OP, I don’t know what I think of this myself but at least if you buy a Narrow/ Wide ring get in touch with the manufacturers regarding set up and compatibility as they may vary between designs

Fwiw I had my first run out with 1×9 with a Raceface narrow/wide ring and a non clutch SLX mech yesterday. Couple of laps around the not very rough Glentress but seeking out as many drops and rough bits of ground as possible did nothing to shake the chain from its proper place. Very impressed.

I’ve had a couple of rides on my Liteville with a narrow/wide chainring and a standard rear mech.

No problems at all so far 🙂

I have a 32t narrow wide on my 1 x 10 setup and have used an XT clutch mech and a Zee clutch mech and it works well. I have however dropped the chain with both mechs and its always, always when you really, really don’t want it to fall off!!

Top guide only now on mine, cant be trusted

I was running a standard ring with a top guide (Gusset L’Il Chap) and standard mech and suffered quite a few drops with it.

Switched to a RF narrow wide and a clutch mech and so far has resolved it completely. Next step will be to take the guide off and see if that makes any difference (although for the few g that it weighs, not sure what the real benefit is – belt n’ braces, etc.)

The other thing i’d like to try is the FSA megatooth style chainring. I have heard of problems with the N-W chainrings in really claggy conditions (and this is my winter bike after all) where the seating / clearance on the wide teeth becomes an issue once the chain gets gritty. I’m thinking of a new ring anyway, to go to a 30T front and give a bit more low ratio – anyone heard anything on the FSA ones (were press launched at the Sea Otter in Auguest, iirc)

Mine works fine.

Been in contact with windwave and they said megatooth will be available only in the spring

theotherjonv – Member

Next step will be to take the guide off and see if that makes any difference (although for the few g that it weighs, not sure what the real benefit is – belt n’ braces, etc.)

The main differences of taking it off are getting rid of a place for mud to build up, and also, if the chain ever does fall off, refitting it with a chain device on is an absolute bollocks so refitting onto a narrow/wide will be twice the bollocks.

Running this for a while. 32t works component narrow wide with X0 type 2 mech. Have had fewer problems thab I did using a top guide and standard ring, although dropped a couple of times in really sticky deep mud recently. No way I am going back at the moment though

4 months into my Raceface one, ridden 3 times a week in total in the peak district, with a lot of top 10 placings in local rocky peak distrcit descents 😉 (not willy waving, just saying that its been ridden hard and on super rough terrain)

not one dropped chain yet!

its still wearing just like a normal chainring, ive replaced the chain once on it, and it meshed fine with a new one, i reckon ill get the full (usual) six’ish months out of the chainring no sweat!

clutch mech, RF narrow wide and nothing else 🙂 win!

EDIT : went gisburn sunday too, and forgot id turned off the clutch mech to take the wheel, got back to the car and still had’nt dropped the chain after all that gisburn had to offer! its cleary mostly down to the ring itself