Been riding 130mm travel and its starting to look like its getting out of its depth. So im toying with a new frame that I can grow my skills on. Im planning more alpine/Spanish AM riding and if I work up to it some freeride too.
So, 140-160 travel?
Hopefully under 32lb

I was thinking bottlerocket/orange blood
Any recommendations or ideas for other frames?

Or do I just put more pressure in the shock on my trek ex and hope it doesn’t explode?

Whole bike for only slightly more cost than a Blood frame:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=44305

I have absolutely no idea what freeride lite is but it sounds like you might get on well with a Hemlock. Not massively strong but with short rear/long front they’re ridiculously capable, yet still pedallable and reasonably light. Chucked mine down the fort william dh route one day then rode a long XC ride on the west highland way the next without a single change. I’m biased though obviously.

One of them bargain yeti 7’s

don’t get a Tracer.. it will break..

a few of my clients rode cubes. they loved them

Freeride lite or ballsy xc?

Big difference imo

Cube Fritz comes very highly reccomended and priced also try a Heckler or the new Nukeproof Mega. Lots raving about the Alpine 160 and the 5AM looks good too

An aggro 6″ bike would be more than capable, or pick up a bargain mini dh bike and keep your trail bike?

Transition Covert – 6 inches, rides up hill and weighs under 30lbs.

I hate those type of sub categories though. They are just marketing hype. Its a bike, its got FS, that will do.

What will the come up with for 2011 – XC heavy as oppsed to Freeride lite ??

I do like the look of the covert. Someone local has an emerald green one and it looks awesome. But no idea how it rides or how much abuse it could handle.

specialized enduro?

lapierre spicy?

santa cruz nomad?

ibis HD?

I hate those type of sub categories though. They are just marketing hype. Its a bike, its got FS, that will do.

I hate being limited by other peoples narrow ideas on what bikes should do.

My heckler has gone between light DH/Alps, Light Trail, Heavy trail and currently a little free ride.

I have run XC hardtails and now run hardcore Hardtails

I’d seriously look at the canyon bikes. So cheap you could justify keeping your trek and still have 2 brilliant bikes.
http://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=2100
£2.5K with X9, Fox FITs, hammerschidt, RS reverb, elixir CRs and haven finishing kit!

Well I just got a secondhand Fritzz for my AM requirements, but I’m lucky that I’ve already got a 7in bike for freemincing on.

Are you planning on doing much riding up? That might be key in deciding between 6in AM bikes and play bikes.

Nukeproof Mega and those Canyon bikes would also be on my list BTW.

I am currently on a short list of: Mondraker Dune, Lapierre Spicy, Rocky Mountain Slayer – mainly as that is what is available locally and on 0% finance deals 😉

That is if I decide to go the 160mm route, I am still undecided as 140-150mm bouncy bikes would probably be a more sensible option…..

Bushwacked – you may be thinking of my Covert – its got a custom green paint job. Green with metal flake. Where is local to you then ?

one of them bargain yets 7s

i love my fritzz climbs well and desends better than my dh bike. also i like my bro’s 2010 spesh enduro seen them for £1800 or less now

Yeti 7

Nukeproof Mega (see last ST mag for review)

Really good angles for going up AND down. Good pivot placement too.

Easily builds to 30lb.

What constitutes a mini DH bike then?
would be nice to pick up a second hand job & keep the trail bike for woburn & the peaks 🙂

Five built with 36 van forks or coil lyriks. Double and bash and some stans flow rims.

Ive used mine on DH tracks one day then on XC cheviot hill rides the next.

Could maybe do with a coil shock or a little more rear travel if doing DH more often.

Well I wanted a DW 5 Spot but couldn’t afford it, and also bit miffed that they reduced the TT length on the large frame…. so bought a 2011 Specialized Stumpjumper EVO

No test ride but bought due to dimensions, angles and decent kit for the money.

Not rode it yet so can’t comment in handling but worth checking out

150mm F&R and around 28lb

ive got an orbea rallon 115-170mm travel that i love to bits- its light, climbs well and far exceeds my capability downhill. i only bought it cos it was a bargain second hand, the kid i bought it off was just using it for hanging out on the street corner trying to look cool.

I’d seriously look at the canyon bikes. So cheap you could justify keeping your trek and still have 2 brilliant bikes.
http://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=2100
£2.5K with X9, Fox FITs, hammerschidt, RS reverb, elixir CRs and haven finishing kit!

Surely that is a typo – seems ridiculously cheap, weren’t hammers £400ish on their own? Maybe there are lots spare as not many people went for them??

I’m dead pleased with my 2009 Wolf Ridge now it’s fitted with a 160mm fork. It tips the scales at 32lb too.

Why do people fit coils over air forks / shocks then. Is that just so you can call it DH. My Talas are lighter than the Vans and do the same – well actually more since you can adjust the travel.

Ive had air shocks for years and never needed to do anything to them other than once every say 2 years when I spent 20mins changing the seal.

Even on a coil you still have oil damping which needs attention after a few years.

The new Norco Range looks pretty good. Anyone know if they plan to sell as frame only or just complete bikes?

crotchrocket – Member
What constitutes a mini DH bike then?

Being a made up term there is no exact definition, but for me it has to be DH bike slack (65deg or less) propper low BB, strong enough for full DH runs and coil sprung front and rear.. just less travel and a little lighter than your regular DH bike.. to some that may be 7″ but not for me. (I’d happily run 7″ front and rear on a DH race bike)

My mini DH bike is an old 02 Spesh Enduro SX. I chose this frame as stock they can be set up crazy low and by running a Pike at 140mm you end up with a bike with 4.5″ travel, a 65deg HA and 12.6″ BB.. it’s 37lb with a full DH parts build (3lb lighter than my DH bike and the weight saving is almost all in the frame/fork) bike but with half the travel it’s more manouverable and is faster sprinting back to speed out of turns.. over a full DH run it’s slower than my DH bike (and hurts) but when sectioning it’s faster and less tiring to ride (and push). I also fitted a scoper post so I can actually ride it up fireroads/mellow climbs