I’ve signed up to a course with ISM in Leysin from 10-24 September, with an introductory week and then a week’s climbing up to (I think) about 4000-4500m. I’m completely new to climbing, in an outdoor environment at least. ISM provide me with technical gear (ice axes, crampons, belay device etc.) but I need to sort out my own clothing. They provide a rucksack too, apparently.

I understand this means I have to procure appropriate trousers, a base layer, a mid-layer, a jacket, boots, socks (are special socks necessary?), a hat (is a special hat necessary – will an Alpaca beanie do?), and gloves.

Can anyone tell me about procuring these and recommend anything specific in particular? I’m not going to be climbing on a regular basis – just for a few weeks every summer. I don’t want to spend thousands, but I want reasonably good stuff. I already have a Goretex ultralight jacket from Evans very good for cycling but suspect I’ll need something thicker – a proper jacket? I also already have a synthetic Helly Hansen base layer – will this do?

Thanks

Clueless

Check what sort of crampons they will be providing and if they provide the right boots. Some types of crampons require specific boots. even with old skool strap on crampons the boot needs to be stiff / rigid for ice climbing.

Clothing I would also ask them for advice

Trousers – you need something that does not restrict movement and is not baggy. Some folk will tell you technical clothing is essentail but personally I don’t. If you want wicking layers and stuff just use your cycling tops.

socks _ i use conventional ones. hat – I have a variety of its not critical what type. waterproofs – make sure they are quality and waterproof. Why not use your cycling ones if they fit the bill? thin waterproof – take an extra layer.
You might end up doing a lot of standing around so risk getting cold – then exert yourself a lot when climbing as sweat. Kit needs to be versatile.

yes normally these places povide boots and crampons as the fit between the two is very impotant

I wouldn’t take your good lightweight cycling stuff, it’ll most likely be too light for scrabbling around on rocks etc and just get ripped to shreds. I took some lightweight marmot kit on my ml course and after a day on the crags it was utterly trashed.

Get a good belay jkt – paramo torres etc to chuck on over your waterproof at belays or rest stops, saves dekitting wearing a harness on a ledge in a blizzard to get your warm kit on.

Where do you live?

I’m in a similar situation as you, I’m off to do Mont Blanc in three weeks.

Get your own boots, and ensure they are rated to B2. This governs how stiff they are and ensures that they have a mount at the back to take crampons rated C2. I doubt very much that they’d put fully rigid crampons (i.e. rated C3) into an intro course, so I’d be looking at something like a Scarpa Manta as a boot of choice. Make sure you’ve broken them in well, do at least 20 to 50 miles in them including big uphills. Take a look at the UK Climbing forums as you can often get some second hand – mine were £50 on there.

Hat – you need to be able to fit a helmet over it, I’m a big fan of the Icebreaker skullcap but others exist. Also a balaclava is an idea, or at very least a buff or two.

Gloves – three pairs. Liner plus light softshell ones for the walk in and climb, and something heavier if you are belaying or standing around a lot. I picked up a pair of women’s – I have lady fingers – Black Diamond Glissades for £25 out of the Climber’s Shop recently and they’re ideal. I wore them ice climbing yesterday and they were fine.

Socks – a versatile combination is needed, I wear twin skin liners then a thicker pair on top.

Trousers – definitely go for technical material. Quick drying is essential, and ignore anything cotton. Trespass do a great set of fleece-lined softshell trousers for around £25 in their sale, they’ve done me well through Scottish winters. Wear gaiters as well, cheap ones though as if you’ve never used crampons you’ll end up putting a point through them at least once.

Base layers – biking ones are fine, they all do the same. However, I’d recommend Merino if you’re going hut to hut as it means you can wear the same one throughout (and thus carry less).

Mid-layers – cheapie fleeces are as good as anything, although you may prefer a softshell fleece so you can wear it on its own in the wind. I personally wear an Icebreaker 200 base layer and a Rab softshell on top in the winter, it’s versatile and keeps me warm when I’m moving but not too warm.

Waterproofs – ensure that your jacket is good for climbing, in that the arms are long enough to not slide down when you lift your hands above your head. Remember you’ll be doing a lot of that if you’re ice climbing. Also, ensure that you can get the hood over your helmet.

Glasses – cat 3 or cat 4 glacier glasses are recommended to prevent snow blindness. Cotswold and Tiso both have a sale on Julbo ones at the moment.

Finally – train, train, train. Get as hill fit as you possibly can now so you’re not suffering when you’re out there.

Its all about layers and adding and taking off as required.

Start with a quality base layer, then a light mid layer and a quality waterproof jacket with pit zips and possibly a “stop” insulaqted jacket for, well stops stop jacket

Add to that perhaps a pair of salopets or climbing pants

Boots such as these Scarpa b1 compatable boot, though check what crampons you will be issued with. Liner socks then main socks.

Then possible a Lowe alpine cap, good head torch, rab power stretch gloves as well as a good pair of glacier glasses or these

As for a pack, try this arete 45

Second the Montane Terra pants, I’ve got a set. However, The Climbers Shop has them for £35 if you don’t mind green.

I would stress against B1 boots, as they will only fit C1 crampons which are really only walking crampons. B2 is the best of both worlds (i.e. not too heavy and not too flexy). If you’re climbing you’ll generally need a 12 point crampon with good front and secondary points, and unfortunately the C1 crampons may not have these.

point taken on the boots folks

Its all about layers and adding and taking off as required.

Actually for geared up alpine climbing, layering is a pain in the butt. Try taking layers on and off easily when you’re wearing a harness and carrying coils around your body and wearing a pack too… Now do it while tied in and standing on a narrow belay ledge.

That’s why belay jackets are ace, you can dress to stay comfortable when moving – a hooded soft shell and soft shell bibs or trousers would be my choice, given then snow and wind are the main issues rather than rain – then sling the belay jacket on over everything else you’re wearing when you stop.

In the UK synthetic fill is the way to go, in the Alps where it’s cold and dry, down is lighter, more compact and has a better warmth to weight ratio too.

Full-on mountaineering boots are heinously expensive these days. I’d speak to ISM about boots and crampons. If they provide boots, find out what brand and make sure the last suits your foot before you go out there – if they do work for you, you’ve saved a load of dosh for now anyway, if they don’t, bit the bullet and buy some that do fit you.

If you’re up north, go and talk to the staff at a good outdoors shop like Outside in Hathersage or Needlesports in Keswick.

Finally, bear in mind that UK climbing, even Scottish winter, is slightly different from the Alps. We have a cold-ish but damp climate with lots of rain. Most alpine conditions are colder but also drier and stuff that works really well here, won’t necessarily be quite so good out there and vice versa.

Good advice from BWD there.

just don’t get anything with velcro on…

Thanks, these comments are so helpful – thanks for the specific recommendations. Can anyone recommend a good belay jacket – is anyone doing a sale at the moment? I’m also scouring UK Climbing

Thanks, these comments are so helpful – thanks for the specific recommendations. Can anyone recommend a good belay jacket – is anyone doing a sale at the moment? I’m also scouring UK Climbing

With belay jackets, you need to make sure it’s oversized, so it fits easily over your other kit, so you may need to buy a size larger than normal depending on how it’s cut. There are plenty of options out there – Primaloft stuff from Rab (good all-round mountain brand, Photon or Photon Belay maybe) or ME (ditto). I’m a little dubious about the Paramo Torres Smock because it’s a half-zip so goes over the head, potentially fiddly in really cramped situations, though it works well otherwise. Or for pure alpine use, a down jacket with some sort of water resistant outer.

I wouldn’t worry too much about loads of technical features on belay jackets, mostly it’s just something you stick over your other kit as instant insulation. Helmet-sized hood is good in real cold conditions.

Carry a stiff bristled toothbrush in your bag…
Seriously, if you dont fasten velcro properly moisture gets in, freezes then you cant fasten up your jacket properly. Not good in a -20c blizzard.
then you use the toothbrush to get the ice out…top mountain guide tip there 😉

Paramo now make a Torres jacket as well as the smock which addresses the issue identified above. Montane are a brand that is often overlooked, but they make good kit that is not excessively priced.

This is my list, some of it depends on specifically what you’re doing ie one night out/multi nights out, mountaineering/pure rock climbing, bivi/huts etc etc
also depends on how you’re getting there and/or whether you’ll have somewhere to stash spare kit, as to whether you can be a bit generous or have to be very sparing with the kit list.
Some of the list will be provided by the instructor/guide I expect.
Think as much about protection from the sun as protection from bad weather, you won’t be going out onto the very high peaks if the weather is at all forecast to be bad.

Have the ISM already sent you a copy of the kit list for the alpine courses?

ISM

I see that they recommend Marmot. That’s where Glenmore Lodge get all of their stores kit from as well.