Found a good deal on a CCDBA and im tempted to swap that for my CCDBC thats on my Alpine 160. The Coil feels good, but i just like the simplicity of air.

Has anyone run both on an Alpine?

Thanks

A couple of months back a mate swapped his CCDBC for a CCDBA because he wanted the climb switch & lighter weight.

He says he couldn’t notice the difference at all descending once it was properly set up, sorry i couldn’t be more specific!

Not on an Alpine but had a coil on a Five and an air on my Patriot, i much prefer the air for ease of use.

Thanks for the info guys.

Kinda decision made if im honest.

the simplicity of air.

the complexity of a CCDB comes from its myriad damping adjustments not its choice of spring material? Have I missed something?

If its lighter weight your after (as per Enigma’s mate) spend the money you’d lose on the sale of the CCDBC on a (secondhand) Ti spring.

As you can probably guess, I have a CCDBC with ti spring on an Alpine 160 8) 🙂

Where’s the deal on the DBA? Thinking of getting one for my Intense..

For anyone interested I have a CCDB coil for sale from an Alpine. Only £260 but open to offers:

[Url]http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-cane-creek-double-barrel-coil-215×63-from-an-alpine-160-only-260-posted-1[/url]

Cane Creek Double Barrel, 215×63 by eddkh, on Flickr

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e-mail by eddkh, on Flickr

Thanks for the advice guys. Making me think now.

Think i might just stick with the coil one.

@crashtestmonkey

What base settings do you use on yours? Can’t seem to find any for the ALpine 160 anywhere.

Thanks

i much prefer the air for ease of use

I is confused.

Coil – get correct spring, set preload, leave forever
Air – set pressure, check pressure periodically

Not seeing the issue with either way of doing things – but you’ll never have an air seal problem on a coil

I originally emailed malcolm@canecreek.com, he’s the CCDB brand manager and has a spreadsheet/database of baseline settings. Cant remember what mine were (lost the email) but from his I added a few clicks of LSC to stop the “trapdooring” on slow rolling stuff and a bit of either HSC or HSR which cured a “flat rear tyre” feeling on fast downhill turns. Not a radical departure from their recommended though.

from

http://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/lounge/forum/category/orange

with all mygear on for riding i weigh in at 77kg and my spring rate is 2.50×400 is this correct for me? and how can i easly move the bottm out rubber stopper forward to see if i am getting enough travel? do you guys have a base tune for an alpine 160? hope you can help

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Comments: 3
June 4, 2013 9:11am by CaneCreekCyclingComponents

That spring rate seems correct for that bike and your weight. If you can get the proper amount of sag (30-33%) with about 1-3 turns of preload then you should be golden. You can use a pick or a small screwdriver to slide the bottom-out bumper up the piston shaft.

As for a base tune, open all adjusters counter clockwise. Be careful with the low speed adjusters they have small clicks, when you get near the end of the adjustment range and you feel resistance stop.

Turn Adjusters clockwise

HSR- 1.0-1.75 turns in from all out. HSR controls the shock from the bottom of the stroke if you feel like you’re getting bucked add .25 clockwise till the feeling goes away.
LSR – 8-12 clicks in from all out
HSC – 1.5-2.0 turns in from all out. If too harsh and not reaching bottom open counter clockwise. Allowing the shock to get full stroke.
LSC – 10-15 clicks in from all out

Hope this helps!

I is confused.

Im between spring rates and use the bike for different things its just easy for me to chuck a shock pump on, maybe im a bit lazy but it deffo feels like less faf.
If you have an air seal problem you can fix it yourself as the air is easily user serviceable.
Pm’d you some base settings from TF OP.

Whilst on the subject,just bought a ccdba for a frame I bought what length shock mount bolts do I need to buy is it 33mm?