Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 53 total)
  • Surfs Up ! … or is that down
  • FunkyDunc
    Free Member
    Jamie
    Free Member

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    Not really a phenomenon – that's just how it breaks.

    Utterly mental wave.

    ahwiles
    Free Member

    teahupo?

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    Yep – but spelt Teahupoo

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    The above looks like Shipsterns in Tazmania – even more mental than Teahupoo!

    Some great pics in that article.

    supersessions9-2
    Free Member

    the daily mirror just found out about teahupoo?! The guy surfing shipsterns like that has got some Cojones!

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    It needs to be seen in video form to appreciate the full craziness of surfing it – utterly mental.

    supersessions9-2
    Free Member

    Big wave riding is for macho @rseholes with a deathwish! 😉

    Creg
    Full Member

    Thats an old stock photo they have used, not one taken during the contest. The surf never got that big for the recent Billabong Pro Tahiti and there wouldnt be that many surfers in the water during a contest period anyway

    This is just insane, Margaret River Australia (I think)

    scruff
    Free Member

    Creg, something wrong with that pic- he hasnt stood up yet 😛

    Creg
    Full Member

    yeah he's a lazy **** with no talent etc 😉

    leggyblonde
    Free Member

    I love those pics! I can convince myself that I can do largish jumps, drops etc on the bike, however I will always be a crap "never been barrelled" surfer so bonkers waves always turn my stomach a bit just looking at pics and vids!

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    Not many proper barrelling waves in the UK and it does take commitment but a lot of fun when it happens. Last weekend was barreltastic!

    I'm in this one at my local break:

    And this one at Byron Bay, Oz (just a shadow though – Mrs Matt didn't realise you need to see the person to "claim" it!!)

    Nowt compared to the nutters above though.

    Teahupoo has been surfed for years now – not sure where the "story" is in that pic?!

    Sponging-Machine
    Free Member

    not sure where the "story" is in that pic?

    Nor I, as that's basically how all waves break (although perhaps not as heavy). Nice photo though and makes a nice change for a tabloid to feature a picture that isn't of a footballer or some bint.

    leggyblonde
    Free Member

    I managed to get low tide croyde on friday morning Mat, no tubes for me, fear was the overriding emotion!

    Your top pic looks cool. What we need is bournemouth's artifical mini-chopes… 🙄

    Sponging-Machine
    Free Member

    What we need is bournemouth's artifical mini-chopes

    Am I detecting a touch of sarcasm here?

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    LB – wind now killing it so missed out on this time. What sort of size at Croyde?

    SM – yep a good pic and nice to see an angle that shows the "shelf" that rears up there. Really quite a loony wave.

    Methinks the Bournemouth Reef is a bit of a flop.

    leggyblonde
    Free Member

    that "reef" seems to be a real waste of money which is a genuine shame.

    I was out of my comfort zone Mat, it was a coupla feet overhead. this was taken once the tide was pushing in; at low they were pretty much all like the wave further out!

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    Bu66er. Missed out then!!

    Creg
    Full Member

    leggyblonde – I never used to be a fan of big waves and would stay on the beach whenever it got over 4ft. Yes, I am just a scummy bodyboarder…the lowest of the low (so stop reading now if that bothers you 😛 )

    I found a great way to deal with it would be to paddle out in bigger surf and just sit and watch the waves as they broke, not paddling for any at all. I found it was actually less scary to be out at the back where the waves werent breaking then eventually confidence grew and I started to paddle into the bigger stuff, then again taking a few on the head and experiencing a few harsh hold downs might have had something to do with it 😆

    Now I actively enjoy riding bigger waves and am just as happy in 8ft surf as I am in 2ft surf.

    Try paddling out in increasingly big surf, find something just outside your comfort zone and then next time a little bigger and so on. It might be worth a try.

    leggyblonde
    Free Member

    thanks creg 🙂

    I'm confident in the water and have no problem paddling out, duckdiving the clean up sets etc in biggish surf, it's paddling into the powerful noisy ones when boards are being snapped that is the issue! I love conquering that fear though, it's a huge buzz. I can't wait for Portugal in October!
    Part of the improvement problem is that I probably only get around 15 surf days/eves a year max and a good 50% of those are brighton slop. Cycling is my priority!

    Supersession, that's ace! I have managed to get similar sized cover before, but only on close out waves for a second or 2, doesn't really count.

    Kitz_Chris
    Free Member

    Leggyblonde – Croyde has been real dangerous for the last week or so. I was in on Wednesday and Thursday last week and the lifeguards were working overtime due to the rips at low tide. been amazing surf though, some of the best I've ridden down there (and I'm a local!)

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    Creg – the barrelling lefts at Porthtowan were pretty much only makeable on a bodyboard at the weekend on the far left – saw some absolutely insane barrels from spongers while most surfers, even the very good ones, were getting battered. It was just breaking too fast.

    I stuck further to the middle where the barrels weren't as deep but the waves were much more rideable – epic sessions on Friday and Saturday!

    Supersession – cool! Looks chilly but well slotted in!

    I find the size is not the issue (up to a point) – it's how heavy it is. 8ft beach break that's not too heavy – fine. 5ft dumping reef (or beach break) – pretty scary.

    Would rather take apart a shoulder to head high wave than brick it all session though.

    Creg
    Full Member

    Agree on heavyness over size. There is a beach not far from me which is a real dredger. A mate of mine majorly over talked how skilled a surfer he was so I took him down there and he ended up losing all his fins and taking a huge chunk out of his board.

    Most of the stuff around here is heavy reef, with the odd mellow beach…sometimes its nice to surf a mellow beach for a "relaxed" session 😆

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    Creg – where is "here?" S Devon? Ireland?

    I remember surfing heavy reefs for ages in South NZ and eventually pining for a beachie. While the shape was outstanding and the power immense, it was always a real wind up getting in and out. Many dings caused by slipping on entry/exit!

    leggyblonde
    Free Member

    I find the size is not the issue (up to a point) – it's how heavy it is. 8ft beach break that's not too heavy – fine. 5ft dumping reef (or beach break) – pretty scary.

    I completely agree! Friday morning seemed to combine both though 😯

    Would rather take apart a shoulder to head high wave than brick it all session though.

    I like to mix it up, sometimes I love the buzz of riding out scary waves, other times work on the technical* side. A bit like MTBing really

    *ie. being less sh1t a top turns

    Creg
    Full Member

    Creg – where is "here?" S Devon? Ireland?

    North East England

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    I like top turns…

    Creg – your fellow NEerner Sam Lamiroy was slaying it here in Perranporth at the weekend. I competed in a comp with him in my early 20s. He is now MUCH better than me – DOH! This is him at the weekend:

    FarmersChoice
    Free Member

    Yep, the reef at Boscombe is a total waste of nearly £4 million. In the process of putting that thing in they have totally destroyed what used to be an ok place to surf.

    First they took most of the pier down which provided some wind shelter and let sand bars build up, then they dredge it, then put a pile of sand about half a mile down the beach which never breaks properly because its always blown out. Can someone show me a reef break that works well with a force 6 onshore wind? Unfortunately, 90% of the surf in Bournemouth bay is wind swell and the shelter of the pier is needed.

    Thank goodness for Kimmeridge!

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    Whoever is sending links to that cretinous kook ATTMKH (or whatever) on MSW, please stop. All such posts will be removed immediately and I'll get the culprit banned from the forum if it happens again.

    Another stalker geek nerd… 🙄

    nmdbase
    Free Member

    scruff – Member
    Creg, something wrong with that pic- he hasnt stood up yet

    Nahh, he's one of those unfashionable types 😆 Like me :D, Ohh and I got plenty of barrels over the weekend 😀

    Surf-Mat
    Free Member

    nmd – where did you surf? Some of the best bodyboard barrels I've seen "live" at PT on Saturday. Got a few too but none as deep of course.

    nmdbase
    Free Member

    Ended up at Croyde,I'm unfortunate enough to live in the South East so it's a trek. I bet PT was cracking at the weekend, some of the guys like Prisk rip. I got so much of a beating at PT once….. mmmm it hurt 🙁

    SprocketJockey
    Free Member

    Can you all please stop talking about surfing…. I haven't been in the water since June and ITS DOING MY HEAD IN!!!! 😈

    Hoping to get down to Croyde weekend after next…bet it's flat by then!

    FarmersChoice
    Free Member

    I'm on a 4 day westcountry surfari next week. Oh yes. And I can feel a new board coming on……and wetsuit. 😀

    nmdbase
    Free Member

    Mahhh, I did't for a year coz my back died AND I couldn't ride either, drove me mad!

    Sponging-Machine
    Free Member

    Hoping to get down to Croyde weekend after next…bet it's flat by then!

    It was rubbish this morning.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 53 total)

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