Contemplating a new board. Been riding longboards for nigh on 15 years and still (very) occasionally sponge. Fancy something that I can duck dive in bigger surf, handle steeper take-offs but will still catch smaller waves and is easier to carry around.

I’ve been surfing for over 20 years but am basically a beginner/intermediate. I can catch a wave and progress down the line, but will only get a couple of decent waves per session. Prefer surf in the 2-4ft range and have been out in head-high after a summer of decent surf, but that is very much my limit.

Waves tend to be south coast and north Devon coast.

Weigh 170lbs, stand at 6′.

Current thinking is something like a Maluku Flying Frog: http://malukusurf.com/index.php/portfolio-item/flying-frog-eco/

Anyone else got any further thoughts or recommendations?

Northern Dawn

I’ve just picked up a 6′ pukas 69er with much the same criteria.

Fourth Chilli Bean

Catches everything a longboard could, but saves me needing a second board for bigger days – rare on Anglesey

I ride a longboard 90% of the time but have a Nine Plus Marmadillo for those odd days.
Looking at your link it’s very similar.
It’s got heaps of volume so paddles amazingly but only 6’4″ so far more nimble than my longboard.

Mini Simmons?
If you are used to a longboard then you need volume, but surely you want something that feels different to ride?
Gf has a watershed Simmons, been used a lot the last 3 years and still looks great. Wave catching machine but she has happily used it on bigger days when she doesn’t want to ride her shortboard

Tomo Evo 5’10 should be perfect.

f you are used to a longboard then you need volume, but surely you want something that feels different to ride?

More this:

Catches everything a longboard could, but saves me needing a second board for bigger days – rare on Anglesey

This:

It’s got heaps of volume so paddles amazingly but only 6’4″ so far more nimble than my longboard.

And this:

Wave catching machine but she has happily used it on bigger days when she doesn’t want to ride her shortboard

I love my longboard but struggle getting it out back on bigger days, or days with close sets. Local predictions are incredibly varied too – 1ft prediction with a 12s period can be 5-6ft on the push around high tide (I realise that’s a little extreme, but have seen it happen). I’d like something that I can take to the beach (45 mins drive) and be happy surfing if it’s 2ft or 5ft, which to me means being able to duck dive.

I suppose essentially I’m after something a little more adaptable to conditions (especially bigger, or more powerful, conditions), can be progressed on but will also catch waves with a relatively inexperienced rider; I’m nowhere near good enough for getting radical, so just heading down the line is a happy achievement 🙂

Thanks for suggestions so far. I’ll do some more searching later today.

when you say 5-6 ft are you meaning a head high wave or a “proper old money” 6 foot that’s probably 10 ft plus faces?

If its the former then you should easily be able to paddle a longboard out back if you roll it. To be honest, with your size, you should be able to duckdive a longboard if its a fairly progressive design.

Anyway, my 2p. 1-If youre used to riding a longboard and don’t surf that much, beware of going too short or skinny. Riding a shortboard is very different to catching waves on something 9 foot long!

2- in tiny waves, a longboard is always more fun unless you are good enough to make a fish or mini simmons fly

3- be honest with yourself about your ability and surfing fitness. Foam is your friend!

so I would say, either buy a skinny progressive longboard. Thinking Mctavish fireball style thing. Black and white make some good ones or if you want something different, go with a midlengthy egg.

They are a world away from the old minimal and are almost the most versatile shape. Not too fat or round, 2 +1 set up, thinned out rails. Duck divable, paddle in early and trim fast even in small waves:

like this

this ones 7’10 but anything 6’10 – 7’10 works depending on how you trade off paddle and small waves for turning

surfs like this:

Agree with Ceepers, but maybe (depending on what you mean by intermediate) think about a stubby 2+1 not a mid length.

When I see things like those Maluku things I want to vomit. Who shapes them? It says hand crafted in uk but no mention of the shapers credentials. I guess tapping a few numbers into akushaper is ‘hand’ crafted??

Agreed. Save a bit more money and go and get a good quality custom board from someone who knows what they are talking about.

Diplock (wadebridge) or Gulfstream (north devon)make beautiful quality boards to order and both will shape what you actually need if you talk it through with them

Maybe be a bit pickier with your choice of spots? North Devon, Saunton will always have an easy paddle out by the rocks and perfect longboarding wave if you can afford the parking. Low tide croyde and your gonna get smashed. Too big at woolacombe, head to puts. Even westward ho can take out some of the size.

If your further down the coast, inside bude harbour is a great choice if it’s too big elsewhere. Had a great session there a couple of weeks ago when the main beaches just looked hard work. Only chest high but lovely rights spinning off the steps by the pool and running for 70-80yds across the beach with an easy paddle out.

Course longboards can be ridden in hollow surf 😉

Blatant excuse to dredge up an old pic of me surfing 😆

One of my favourite pics of me, just for the wave, which is so mint, and the fact my mate got attacked by giant spiders clambering through the jungle to take the shot 😆

did you make the channel?

Yep, that was 15 years ago though when I actually surfed instead of just reminiscing 😳

A wave called lighthouse in Tonga. Short but intense.

I actually got bored of lugging longboards around shortly after that and now only ride them when its old school logging conditions.

when you say 5-6 ft are you meaning a head high wave or a “proper old money” 6 foot that’s probably 10 ft plus faces?

😆

6ft faces. Head high. None of that ‘back of the wave’ nonsense. 😉

Anyway, my 2p. 1-If youre used to riding a longboard and don’t surf that much, beware of going too short or skinny. Riding a shortboard is very different to catching waves on something 9 foot long!

2- in tiny waves, a longboard is always more fun unless you are good enough to make a fish or mini simmons fly

Totally agree. Still planning on using a longboard for small waves and summer surfing. And I’d be looking at something pretty fat and still fairly long in a smaller board – 6′ x 18″ 20ltr shortboard is definitely not on the cards.

Agree with Ceepers, but maybe (depending on what you mean by intermediate) think about a stubby 2+1 not a mid length.

Diplock (wadebridge) or Gulfstream (north devon)make beautiful quality boards to order and both will shape what you actually need if you talk it through with them

Fair calls.

I actually got bored of lugging longboards around shortly after that and now only ride them when its old school logging conditions.

And there’s that too. 😉 Lovely wave BTW.

Maybe be a bit pickier with your choice of spots? North Devon, Saunton will always have an easy paddle out by the rocks and perfect longboarding wave if you can afford the parking. Low tide croyde and your gonna get smashed. Too big at woolacombe, head to puts. Even westward ho can take out some of the size.

If your further down the coast, inside bude harbour is a great choice if it’s too big elsewhere. Had a great session there a couple of weeks ago when the main beaches just looked hard work. Only chest high but lovely rights spinning off the steps by the pool and running for 70-80yds across the beach with an easy paddle out.

Thanks for the tips. Usually head to either Putts or Wooly, depending on conditions – tend to avoid Croyde as it’s too steep on the log. Been out in heavy winter overhead at Woolacombe and had a lovely hold-down – once was enough. 😯

I live about 10 minutes from there and surf (lots) everything from a 5’2 mini sim, through fish and slightly longer eggs up to heavy single fin logs depending on my mood and the waves.

If you’re talking 6 foot faces, you should be able to paddle a longboard out at wooly or puts if you turtle roll it.
Bear in mind being able to duckdive doesn’t mean its easier – there’s a skill to be honed to get the timing right and what you gain in being able to sink under stuff, you lose in paddle speed to sprint out in lulls or avoid sneaker sets.

That said, I never surf a log there if its chest high or bigger.

Also bear in mind that a longboard affords you time as you pop up and start to trim along since it catches the wave earlier and will go along the wave without requiring much effort from you. On a head high wooly wave, something 6′ x 21 is still going to take off fairly late in comparison and require some pumping to keep it going in slacker sections.

Even riding the shorter “retro ” shapes like fish or eggs requires a different skill level to a longboard. You will catch fewer waves per session.

I still stick with what I said before. Don’t go too short or narrow. I personally would think egg or stubby rather than fish or simmons. Something with a refined foil and thin rails around 6’10 – 7’6 will still retain some glide into waves and trim speed but should be able to be duckdived. Similar to the template of the pic I posted or this

https://www.surfboardsbydonaldtakayama.com/surfboards/mid-length/howard-special-mini/

The rounder nose of a “magic carpet” like the Maluku is a bit unnecessary I think

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poDRGPM_9HA[/video]

Have a look at a Fourth Doofer, if you can get down to Newquay you can get a test ride, the eps ( epoxy ) ones are strong, light and paddle really well. There’s plenty of foam in them so you can go shorter than you think.
Couple of years ago I was riding just traditional logs and a 9′ 1″ McTavish Fireball, got a 6′ 2″ doofer to start travelling with, found the transition between the mals and the doofer pretty easy.

That said, I never surf a log there if its chest high or bigger.

🙂

I like my log, a lot. It’s a reasonably progressive shape and the previous owner (Geoff the Dingman in Bournemouth) went out on it up to head high. TBH I want something to progress on, and to be more comfortable on in heavier or larger conditions or closer sets, but will still handle smaller surf (if not as well as a longboard).

Bear in mind being able to duckdive doesn’t mean its easier – there’s a skill to be honed to get the timing right and what you gain in being able to sink under stuff, you lose in paddle speed to sprint out in lulls or avoid sneaker sets.

Yeap, aware of this from bodyboarding many moons ago. When conditions are long period / little wind I’m still amazed at how quick a longboard paddles.

I still stick with what I said before. Don’t go too short or narrow. I personally would think egg or stubby rather than fish or simmons. Something with a refined foil and thin rails around 6’10 – 7’6 will still retain some glide into waves and trim speed but should be able to be duckdived. Similar to the template of the pic I posted or this

Thanks. I was thinking in the region of 7′ x at least 20″, so it’s good to have that offered up. I’ll speak to a few shapers nearby and see what the general feeling is.

Couple of years ago I was riding just traditional logs and a 9′ 1″ McTavish Fireball, got a 6′ 2″ doofer to start travelling with, found the transition between the mals and the doofer pretty easy.

Good to know – cheers. I’ve already got a 7′ old-skool single-fin which I’ve had a few goes on. It’s different, but not a world apart, which was good.

Again, thanks all.