risky I would have thought. Here is my attempt so far.
I will clip the closest couple a little more too.
Bike Forum
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Studded snow tyres (home made)
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Posted 2 years ago #
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pulls up chair and gets out notepad
Posted 2 years ago # -
just 1 thing...........
to ride uphill on ice or compressed snow you need grip in the center.
rubber alone does not work.
put a line in the center.Posted 2 years ago # -
my friends pair of studded endomorphs..time to get serious!
Posted 2 years ago # -
could you use gaffer tape as tube protection?
Posted 2 years ago # -
When compared to the tread blocks of a fairly blocky tyre, studs are tiny and in snow look making little difference
If you're in snow, as the tyre compresses into and around the snow, the blocks will produce your grip/traction?
For ice, the studs/screws look brilliant
ton: what happens if you get a puncture?
Posted 2 years ago # -
I'm loving this thread, and the diy ethic
really tempted to have a go
but I reckon by the time I get around to doing it all the snow will be gone Posted 2 years ago # -
this guys idea is good for DIY studs
alot of folk have copied his idea with success..
me? ive just orderd 29er nokian W240s from the states..maybe too late for this year but at least have them.. at £90 a pair & possible import duty there not cheap but in relation to cost of bikes and continuing riding its a small price Posted 2 years ago # -
****! Those DIY'ers are proper. He even made a jig for them!
Posted 2 years ago # -
ton: what happens if you get a puncture?
nigel, i put the bike on my shoulder and run to work/home...
Posted 2 years ago # -
Wally, I have a set of those coming, but I reckon I'll fit screws to one centre block in 4 so I can climb.
Liking teh use of latex in that link to cover over the studs on the inside of the tyre.
I'll still be trying out the trusty gaffer/duct tape.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Word of warning , it has taken 2 hours to drill and then screw 120 screws and my hands hurt. Glued them in and now applying punture proof tape. Ok that's not working tape/glue/tyre will not bond. So I will let glue dry and insert with the tube - as normal.
Posted 2 years ago # -
cut down the screws using a cable cutter
you did WHAT!
God just killed a kitten for you.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I used
2 cheapest nobbly tyres I could find in town. £16.99 each
2 boxes of 2.5x16mm turbodrive screws. £1.50 each
electric drill with 1mm drill bit
electric screwdriver with PZ1 bitI've not used any protective strip between the tyre and the innertube and after a short test ride they're still holding air.
clicky
Posted 2 years ago # -
Cool, it's a homebrew tyre frenzy!
Ballsof cottonwool, I'd at least bung some duck tape in there, given all the problems the OP had with punctures.
Had a proper thrash round the woods last night, and they seemed to be working lovely, although it has to be said the people I was riding with didn't have any studs and they were doing fine too.
I still managed to fall off a couple of times, once after my front wheel dug into a concealed hole... and I landed in some yellow snow.
Posted 2 years ago # -
What kind of tyre preasure is everyone running? After inspiration from this thread, just made some from some old Tioga DH's. At the moment running them pretty firm but just wondering how low i can go before it all goes wrong!!!!
Posted 2 years ago # -
ant, i reckon that the woods isn't the place that they'll show there best qualities. i definitely could have done with a set on my ride home last night - came off twice on polished ice on roads and now have a massive bruise on my thigh to show for it...
Posted 2 years ago # -
Anyone have any bright ideas about converting tubeless tyres without having to re-fit new ones. I have been wondering whether it would be possible to fit some king of carpet-strip-type thing to the existing tyre. Can anyone think of anything else that might work as a spikey strip which can be secured to the exisiting tyre?
Posted 2 years ago # -
I think ballsofcottonwool has used the same Halfrauds tyres that I have used. They even have an "insert screw here" type mark in the tread block. Mine have been going with no problems - or offs (yet...) all this week.
Posted 2 years ago # -
About 35 psi here, for a 12 stone bloke with 5" forks. I wouldn't want them to squirm around too much though.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I'm running at 35psi. Tyre pressure seems to be a fine balancing act with grip varying greatly at different pressures. Because my screws are outside the central rolling strip, changing the pressure affects the amount of contact they are making with the ground.
Cycling with non studded pals has demonstrated there is little or no difference in grip for a studded versus non studded tyre in snow; it's on the ice and compacted stuff where the difference is.
Posted 2 years ago # -
My diy spiked tyres held air without any protection between the tyre and tube over a 2 hour ride in the woods last night. They studs didn't make any difference as the snow was soft and a foot deep. They were reassuringly sure footed on the very hardpacked snow on the roads. I think I'll switch back to my regular wheels while the snow is still soft as they are 600g lighter each due to being having lightweight tubeless tyres as opposed to Halfords puncture resistant monsters.
Posted 2 years ago # -
All done
gone for many tiny tips. Getting tape to stick inside was a nightmare. In the end rubber glued in old tube and held in place for an hour or two with an inflated tube to dry and hold.This took too much time really. I do not recommend it.
Still - I did spend only about £20.Posted 2 years ago # -
I'm with Ton on this one. I'd been thinking along the lines of chains rather than studs - the studs things looks like far too much work to me! Ton's solution of short chain lengths and zip ties should be quick and easy. Chances of getting a puncture on these frozen ice n snow roads are really very low.
Posted 2 years ago # -
This is my effort. Approx 54 3.5mm x 20mm diameter screws. These add approx 30-40g per tyre, if anyone cares about that.
I've aimed for about 1-2mm above tread level for them when cut down.
Since I run tubeless, I'm going to let the tubeless solution do any sealing that might be needed.
I'll fit them later and give some feedback along our 5day compacted ice road that has had cars sliding quite happily.Posted 2 years ago # -
Well, here's my hurried attempt, about 10 mins work for a doubling of traction on hardpacked snow and ice.
Posted 2 years ago # -
i have just been out for a spin on the stiffee with a pair of newly SPIKED 2.1 advantages.
they look like ice speedway tyres.......lethal.
fantastic in deep snow and on ice and compressed snow.
a bit sketchy on the road bits.
the chains on the 29r are better on the road but spikes are better offroad.Posted 2 years ago # -
After a little trial and error down my road, theres definitely more grip down the road than without studs. I think I need a denser pattern though. I feel there could still be more grip.
Air losses seem to be no greater than doing a normal tubeless setup so far!
Posted 2 years ago # -
I spent two hours this morning putting 60 3.5 x 20mm screws into a pair of old Nobby Nics. I cropped the exposed part back to about 3mm and covered the heads of the screws with three layers of gaffer tape.
I had a two hour spin this afternoon and everything held up OK. There is definitely loads more grip. It will be interesting to see how long they last.
If anyone has a couple of old tyres and some screws I recommend they give it a go.
Posted 2 years ago # -
111 screws in the rear Crossmark, 3 layers of Duct tape and the front Surley Endomorph dropped down to 6psi.
Wish me luck for tomorrow mornings local ice ride.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Here's mine. Grip brilliantly on ice. Rolling resistance and noise levels are somewhat high!
Posted 2 years ago # -
ScienceOfficer: I was pretty smug running Schwalbe Snow Studs tubeless, but they don't have holes through them! Are you saying you're successfully ghetto tubeless with screws through your tyres !?!?!?
Wow, how did you get them up? Do you have a compressor? How much fluid did you put in? I'm impressed!
Cheers, al.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Allan,
Yes I have a compressor for first inflate - it makes things much easier.
I'm not running ghetto really - Stans flow rims which hold tyre beads very nicely, but the tyres are non-tubeless, and I don't need a rimstrip for this particular pair.
Also, I only took them to about 22 psi, at which point I could see solution around a couple of the screws. If I'd have pumped them up too high, there would probably have been latex spewing everywhere, but since there was only enough pressure to force it to migrate down the hole it was fine.
Tubeless solution is, after all, exactly for this purpose.
They're off the bike again now, since I felt they needed more studs, which I'm part way through, but I'll post up about keeping air when they're back on.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I ran mine with an inner tube at 30psi without any problems on this mornings 2 to 3 hour flat towpath and cyclepath ride.
The Surley Endomorph up front at 6psi helped as well.
Posted 2 years ago # -
just done 2 hours on mine.
no problems at all, even ok on tarmac.
spiketastic Posted 2 years ago #
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