Both side towards the front of the upright bike to undo. I agree that the marks look like it’s slipping clockwise assuming that the bike in the picture is upright and non drive side.

I know you said there are arrows but stranger things have happened. Hope you get it sorted.

Absolutely doing it the right way..

So all booked in at a LBS to fix.. right. But wait.. surely this cant be beyond my powers.. surely. Especially after that extra penetrating oil applied yesterday…

Well go on then, one more go.

Socket on. Hammer applied for shock force

Socket in the vice, frame for leverage

Damn it’s shredding the … no wait! it’s turning, oh my god its actually turning!

A few quarter turns using the frame for leverage and … clunk… aha that’ll be what everyone said about it unseizing!

No wait

Oh dear

Now get your hacksaw out with a clear conscience.

That’s the most stuck BB I’ve ever seen.

oh mate, that’s dreadful. How much did the frame cost you?

What’s happened?

Your pics aren’t working, has it sheared???

Broken vice?

Think the hamsters at Photobucket must have run out of food again.

This thread is nothing without working pictures

Yup bearing housing off, thread still in frame

Engineering shop to drill it out then LBS to run a tap down the threads?

Well.. If you’re determined not to bother with the caustic soda, then nuking from orbit is the only way to be sure. 🙂

I was going to offer to have a crack for you (live SW of bristol, work NE of bristol 😥 ) but my dad was down for a birthday weekend. He’s now got flu so had to cancel so I would have had a crack with my cutting method for you…but now it sounds like you are really in a pickle.

I would still cut through what you can without damaging the threads and then go in with a very wide screwdriver/blunt chisel from the other side to try and catch the lip on the inside and fold the metal in and away from the frame.

From your previous pic it looks like a full suspension. Is it an alloy frame or steel one (like a cotic)?

This is how I ended up getting a stuck headset cup out of an aluminium insert in a carbon frame with an overhang that the headset butted up to stopping it from being drifted out:

Cut through the external lip that would stiffen it and then weakened the inner bit without touching the frame insert. Then clamped the external part to squeeze it and free it enough to get it out. Now you have lost the outer bit it will make it a bit harder to fold it in but still doable.

Too late now but this stuff. Freeze

Regards the left over thread inside the BB, I’d get a hacksaw blade and wrap some insulating tape or similar several times round one halve to use as a handle.

Then carefully cut through the inner cup in 2/3 places, if your patient you should be able to cut through enough so your just nicking the bb shell threads.
Then use a large flat blade scewdriver to start prying up at the edge where you have made the cuts to the leftover threaded section.

Once out either run a old bb in there to clean up the threads or take to bike shop and let them chase the threads out.

And in the name of all that is holy, grease the new one.

I thought I’d be able to finish this thread off tonight. LBS managed to get it out by cutting a slot in it and hammering it round with an appropriate drift (big fo screwdriver).

Perhaps I should have taken it as read that they would check the threads were intact afterwards and retap as necessary. Annoying to discover the new bb wouldn’t thread in.

I’m beginning to wonder if the bike is cursed, or if there was some sign of buying a pup. Along with the generously included seized BB + cranks the headset was missing the crown race so useless, and building it up tonight I got it to a rolling chassis, sat on it and.. the rear suspension is incredibly graunchy. There is some horrific bearing death somewhere for me to try and pin down.

Feel like a total mug… ffs. Sold by a STWer without any mention of these problems of course. I could accept not knowing about the seized BB, no signs they tried to remove that, and even overlooking the crown race on the headset, but there is no way they didn’t know about the awful noises occurring when you sit on the bike.

Sold by a STWer without any mention of these problems

Classified user only, hardly a regular user of forum.

Sorry to hear this OP. Always crap when you solve one problem and face another.

Just to quadruple check, you are loosening clockwise and tightening anticlockwise correct? (forget arrows and which way up bike is etc)

On the upside, once you’ve sorted all these problems you know that every possible moving part will be Quality Assured for the winter.

It’s a bit crap; have you contacted the seller?

A quick rule with BB’s is if the bearings jam it will undo with normal pedalling and jam on the crank arms. This saves it being tightened into the frame if the bearings jam.

Pedal threads are the opposite and will tighten if the pedal bearings fail as having a pedal unscrew can cause an accident.

Correct directions, however this isn’t the reason. In both cases the left hand thread prevents the item from loosening under pedalling forces. If your pedal is totally seized this is a non ideal situation.