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Stuck bolt

9 posts & 5 voices | Started 1 year ago by anotherdeadhero | Latest reply from anotherdeadhero

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anotherdeadhero - Member

Yawnicus maximus I know, but I have a mudguard bolt where the head just snapped off in my commuter fork leaving a stub.

Molgrips - not shifting.

I filed some flats into it and put a 4mm spanner on it - rounded straight off.

Then I hacksawed a slot into it (quite beautifully central, I was proud), got a screwdriver onto it - one side just sheared off.

Then I drilled a 3mm hole through what was left, hoping the heat would crack the corrosion and loosen it, no joy, the rest of the stub just ripped off.

Any bright ideas before I drill the whole thing out and try to find a longer bolt & low profile nut??? I do not have access to a helicoil.

Posted 1 year ago #
gusamc - Member

you could try soaking in pentrating oil then an easyout (screws in to a hole in reverse then you keep going and it may screw the bolt out))

I once managed to get a bolt out by drilling closer and closer to the hole width[dead centre and marginally smaller drill] and then getting a small screwdriver under the remaining thread (of the stuck bolt) and managed to pull the thread out without damaging the hole thread

Posted 1 year ago #
cynic-al - Member

Drill to 4mm then one of those tungsten carbide string/blades if you can feed it through, cut into the thread and collapse it.

Or drill it out and re-tap to M6.

Posted 1 year ago #
anotherdeadhero - Member

Ta!

Everytime I've tried getting close to the diameter of the thread, but leave enough in there for it to still work, I've knackered the tread, so that is the last option for me. The 3mm hole I've drilled is pretty bang on, but I've never managed to get it to work like this.

I might try to find an 'easyout' as I can get to the reverse easily enough.

:thumbsup:

Posted 1 year ago #
anotherdeadhero - Member

Drill to 4mm then one of those tungsten carbide string/blades if you can feed it through, cut into the thread and collapse it.

Or drill it out and re-tap to M6.

Ta, but these would only be options if I had a thread tapper, or carbide string, but I don't and I'm a cheapskate.

Posted 1 year ago #
takisawa2 - Member

You've more patience than me. I'd have had the drill out & oversized it already.

Changed the drop-links on our Galaxy on Friday, didnt even bother trying the bolts (which are usually seized solid), straight in with the angle grinder.

Posted 1 year ago #
anotherdeadhero - Member

I was going to sell them on when I found some road carbon disc forks I liked, which is why I don't want them completely mashed.

I put them in with some decent grease too. Humph. Bleeding winter - its seized my M959s into the Ultegra crank arms too.

Posted 1 year ago #
TandemJeremy - Member

I put them in with some decent grease too. Humph. Bleeding winter - its seized my M959s into the Ultegra crank arms too.

coppaslip? do so next time

Posted 1 year ago #
anotherdeadhero - Member

Yep. I coppaslipped them good n proper. Happened with the other set of ultegra doubles I had on the road race bike too, but I managed to get them out last time, so I was forewarned and forearmed - to no avail.

I've started to wonder if the old M959s had Ti axles and they're electolytically bonding in there. In which case the coppaslip would have made it worse ... and I have some bleeding moly grease too

Posted 1 year ago #