Just considering going tubeless.

Options are convert existing wheels (Hope Pro II/DT Swiss 5.1) with a Stans kit or change to tubeless rim.

Am I right in thinking that the Stans Flow rims require a tubeless kit? Is it only Mavic who make true tubeless rims? Is there any benefit in using a true tubeless rim over a converted one? Weight/faff/etc

Do I have to use sealant or can I run them dry?

Thanks

Flows just need yellow tape to seal the rim bed and with a bit of sealant you’re good to go.

You need tubeless valves as well, you can get these from wiggle as a kit of the valves and tape I think.

So can I just use tape and a screw in valve in my existing rims?

I don’t understand the difference between the inner tube style strips with a built-in valve and using tape with a separate screw in valve.

some people will tell you that you can just put yellow tape in your existing rims, but I never made it work.

IME non tubeless rims require a rubber rim strip, this effectively puts the bead of the tyre in contact with the rubber and the sealant sticks it together

A proper tubeless rim is shaped so that the bead sits tight against the rim and will seal with just yellow tape.

proper tubeless rims seal much more easily and also much easier to get tyres on and off. the only question is can you afford to re-rim your wheels?

edit – just to add – yellow tape needs push in valve, rubber rim strip has valve attached

DTswiss sell a specific conversion kit but at £30 each rim you may think it’s better value in the long run to get the flows.
I have the same wheels as yours and converted to tubeless with the kits about 3 yrs ago. They have been fine, seal well with a variety of tyres (Maxxis and conti) obviously you need sealant but you don’t also need the extra weight of a true UST tyre.
The rear rim has recently died so I’ve replaced it with a flow sealed with yellow tape and a rim strip- also works fine.

I use the flow rim strips and non UST tyres. They can take a while to seal and need a fair bit of sealant but they are light and work really well.

Gaffer tape to seal the spoke bed and a valve cut from an old inner tube gaff’d into place work perfectly on any rim and costs next to nothing

I used to run Stan’s tubeless kits in my old WTB speed discs which were fine once they had sealed (which took a while!). I’ve recently bought a set of wheels from Superstar Components with Flow rims, yellow tape and sealant for 229. Sealed really easy and light than my old ones.

I’ve converted two pairs of DT 5.1s to tubeless now.

If you run normal tyres (as tubeless) then the rimstrip approach is better, as it seals the tyre properly. I do this on the fronts. If you don’t want the cost of the rimstrip then you can do it ghetto with a BMX innertube, but it’s more fiddly and harder to re-use when you swap tyres about.

If you run UST tyres then just taping the rim up is fine. I use 3M crossweave tape as it’s (much) cheaper than Stans tape and works fine. I use Stans valves. I do this on the rear, as you need the tougher UST sidewall on the rear. Clean the rim thoroughly, then go three times round with the tape.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-x-ROLL-19mm-x-50m-Crossweave-Reinforced-Tape-/180337800112?pt=UK_Packaging_Materials&hash=item29fcf873b0

bluebird – Member

Options are convert existing wheels (Hope Pro II/DT Swiss 5.1) with a Stans kit or change to tubeless rim.

Am I right in thinking that the Stans Flow rims require a tubeless kit? Is it only Mavic who make true tubeless rims? Is there any benefit in using a true tubeless rim over a converted one? Weight/faff/etc

Leaving aside the tubeless side, the Flow’s a better rim than the 5.1- lighter and wider, and much more resistant to denting.

For tubeless- once you yellow tape (or electric tape) a Flow, it functions identically to a “proper” UST rim, I run 819s on one bike and Flows on another and there’s no difference to how they seal up new tyres. The Flows have a slightly better grip on the beads I think, it’s harder to get them away when changing tyres anyway. It’s a non-issue basically, just a clever way to get tubelessness without the downsides of the solid rim.

Thanks all for the info so far. I now have more questions!

An innertube weighs around 200g. A UST tyre (Maxxis High Roller LUST 2.35) is 200g heavier than a regular High Roller, plus I need to add a valve, sealant and rim strip. So it’s a heavier option than a regular innertube and tyre.

(I know you can run none UST tyres but I have read that the side walls don’t last as long as UST tyres as they’re not designed to be used without an innertube.)

I run my tyres around 35psi, I weigh around 13.5 st in my kit and I don’t pinch puncture often. Is the extra grip really that good? Or am I missing something else?

Personally, I can’t tell any difference in grip between tubeless and tubed, at the same pressure, in the same tyre. I can see why there might be one, and I’m not saying it doesn’t exist but I’m oblivious to it.

I use standard tyres or sometimes tubeless ready tyres, on various UST and tubeless-ready rims, and it’s proved excellent for me, on 3 bikes over 2 years I’ve had 3 punctures and only one was a sidewall. I’ve probably covered about 5% of the miles in the same time with a tube in yet I’ve had a lot more punctures.

I see UST tyres as being much like downhill dualplies- something you use if you need them, but not something that should be the first choice for everyone. If you’re not constantly shredding sidewalls on your regular tyres as it is, going tubeless will make no difference.

Tubeless ready can be a good compromise- Specialized’s 2bliss Eskar frinstance is still light for its size and toughness despite being tubeless ready. Easier to fit and they seal faster, sometimes a standard tyre will leak a little air for the first couple of rides which can be annoying though ultimately, not that big a deal.

As above. I expected to tear through the sidewalls of my non UST Betties and Rubber Queens… but both have been fine for nearly a year and make for incredibly light feeling big tyred wheels when run tubeless.

UST are heavier, as you say, but the sidewalls are tougher.

On my hardtail I run a UST rear, and a normal tyre on the front (tubeless). Both Fat Alberts (2.25 rear 2.35 front).

The front doesn’t need to be UST as it get less hammer and the supple sidewall is handy for grip + feel.

But the rear needs to be UST as anything with thinner sidewalls just can’t handle to absolutely intense hammer I give it 8)

You need the lightest set up that gives you the reliability and grip you need. Only you can answer this. You may be a lightweight, full suss, woodsy guy. You may be a rocky, unsubtle biffa. Who knows.

Cheers guys, that’s interesting. I’ve not really thought of it as insurance against trashing tyres. Judging by the state of the sidewalls on my current tyres – Nevegals with SWS – maybe tubeless is something I should try.

Been running tubeless with non UST tyres, they are fine and I haven’t had a puncture in the 2 years I’ve been running them.

I’ve been running DT5.1 rims with UST tyres and the DT rimstrips for a couple of years now. So far, flawless performance. Haven’t had a single puncture in the last 2 seasons of Alpine guiding!

They were getting a bit tired (arf! arf!) so I’ve just bought a new set of wheels with Flow rims, so we’ll see how that goes. Can’t use them yet as still waiting on the right adapters for the rear axle.