Nights are drawing in, I’m thinking of upgrade my equilibrium to a dynamo setup.

Current thinking is archetype rim, sp hub (probably with disc tabs though use v brakes on current setup)
Rear hub not decided, something light and reliable
Front light looked at b&m but they aren’t the nicest looking, and to match the rest of the finishing kit I’m looking for something in silver. Usb is useful but not essential
Rear light not sure? Not using a rack so needs to fit to frame or guards.

Spokes wise, I’m 75kg so I’m thinking I can use less than 32, all of my current wheel sets have been less.

The new IQ-X is a much more modern-looking B&M lamp, should be about £100. Rear light: Secula Plus all the way, IMHO. You can get it in mudguard or seatpost fitting.

Ive just recently got a son28 disc hub on stans grails with an edelux 2 front light. With a plug 3 usb charger. But i use a battery cateye hand grenade.

I looked at the sp hub and b and m lights as my mate has them. The light seems a bit flimsy and the hub has apparently the potential for early bearing failure tho ive heard lots of good things too. and its a throw away job by all accounts

The son is lovely with 5 yr warranty and can be sent to germany for repairs. The light is beautiful solid and works very well.

The charger works perfectly but you cant charge and run lights which is a shame

As for rear light the battery ones just seem better tbh and i can swap it to fit saddlebag seatpost or rack very easily and carry 2 spare aa for it

All in all very happy it was expensive but i wanted something to last that was bombproof and servicable. Thats why i got a steel framed rohloff too 😉

“the hub has apparently the potential for early bearing failure”

Surely this is true of everything with a bearing in it? 🙂

I’m using an SP hub (well, two of them – one on my road bike, one on my Fortitude)
I have an Exposure Revo light, I use a Redeye rear on the mtb, and a B&M rack light of some sort on the orad bike.
Light is very bright. Too bright in a way, the lens is designed for mtb, not road, so it doesn’t project dowen very well, dazzling car-drivers. That said, its fine at 40mph in pitch black.

SP hubs are great, customer service is amazing.
But go for a German front light.

I have a few setups now.

The SP hubs are fine, shimano also, never felt the need to go to SON due to price.

B&M light dont look the prettiest but the new premium IQ are impressive in their output, the Edeluxe is good but go for the newer version (same innards as the IQ premium, slightly cleaner light delivery from the glass lens).

Exposure revo is good but for road us the dedicated road lights are better (less light spill keeps your night vision better and makes it easier to see what your light is hitting on the road, IME).

For rear lights bigger is better, i run a toplight line plus bolted to an adaptor and mounted on the brake bridge. The adaptor is one used to mount the light in the same place on a brompton. The light is very bright, big so more visible as a cyclist and includes a reflector so even more visible.

This is true to a point bez but sp has form for going early where as son doesn’t. That said it depends where you ride and luck of the draw. I was hub deep in water last week im sure neither of my hubs appreciated that regardless of what make they are

One thought about mudguard mounted lights, i do like them and have used them in the past but I always felt a little concerned in heavy traffic with just a mudguard light. Probably not a risk but i tended to add a flashing seapost light so i had a light more at driver level, than just down at bumper level.

I’ve just got my first dynamo set up (hybrid commuter) and have gone for B+M Lumotec Cyo T (60 lux) and a Topline brake plus (on the rack). I got my lights from Rose. I was very impressed with how easy they are to set up.

I bought a pre built wheel from Germany online (via ebay) XT T785 hub on a mavic rim (A319 I think). I went for the XT as its a bit lighter than the alfine models but I couldn’t quite stretch to an SP or SON.

I’d probably go for the Secula for a seat post mount.

Have had good life out of a Shimano dynamo hub (well, it outlasted the frame so I had to get a new one that would accomodate a disc brake), although I could’ve done with replacing the cones but couldn’t find the correct ones.

XT one was about £50-55.

I’m sure lighter and flashier things are available.

Had B&M lights, the latest one (Luxos IQ with the USB thing on) initially suffered from water ingress but was replaced under warranty and so far so good (I think it was a common problem and the design has been changed) – although they aren’t the most beautiful things in the world they do have a good light output and beam pattern. Newer ones look a bit nicer.

I believe there are other lights that still have a good beam pattern, assuming you are using this on road. Rear I can’t really comment as I do have a rack.

I’ve been using the exposure /sp disc hub for about 6 months so far. Front light is a revo, which I have found to be fine on the road. Just made sure it’s angled down enough to not dazzle drivers. I’ve run 2 cables off the hub , 1 to the light the other to a b&m usb werk. This means I can use the light and charge my phone or garmin. The revo light uses the same bracket as the other exposure lights meaning it’s very easy to take off when not required.

Mmm… i wonder if i can double up wires on my hub and charge and have lights at the same time

This might sound a dumb question, but do all the wires and necessary fittings come with the hub along with instructions on how to set up? I like the idea of a usb charger which I can use along with the light, it will save me having to carry a back up battery.

Exposure Sp and revo/red eye user here, as above just point it out of the way. Go for the 15mm axle version as it comes with a QR convertor and is more efficient to boot. I run mine along with a cycle2charge USB charger. Like a plug2 but £45 from Germany.

If you get the exposure Sp/revo kit it’s all in there and basically foolproof. Wiring in the cycle2charge just involves twisting some wires together and poking a wire through the steerer.

Setup on my Genesis Equilibrium is as follows…

SP hub, Open Pro, 32 sapim race
USE Revo front / redeye rear.

Good spread of light on the front, super bright rear and has been faultless so far.

I also have an SP disc hub laced to an XM719 on my touring bike (Tour de Fer) that isn’t currently connected to anything. Will probably get some sort of charging device to use it with when I have a bit of spare cash.

Used to run Shimano LX dynamo, with B&M Cyo IQ front and Lumotec rear:

[url=https://flic.kr/p/9RaDHR]Singular_brown[/url] by ir_bandito, on Flickr

Got a reasonable amount of light out of it, coped on Hartside Pass in the dark anyway.

New setup:

[url=https://flic.kr/p/fhE7DX]DSC_0134[/url] by ir_bandito, on Flickr

and

[url=https://flic.kr/p/qrF8Tc]20150107_230020[/url] by ir_bandito, on Flickr

I also went for Shimano XT, which has been amazing. It’s for my commuter, so I wanted something that I felt confident racking up the mileage on. It’s been great, no problems, I leave it switched on the whole time and I don’t even know it’s there.

If I’d had the money though I’d have gone for one of those crazy small SP ones.

My Lights are B&M.

I like the idea of a usb charger which I can use along with the light, it will save me having to carry a back up battery.

You should still use a backup/inline battery rather than connect direct to a gps or other, partially to protect the device (some are not happy with the potentially high current at high speeds) but mainly to ensure constant power. As you drop speed/stop it will stop charging, typically announced by a beep or the screen triggering, which wastes power. Also, if you use an inline battery you will (potentially) end the day with a full device and a full spare battery, which is useful for charging other things.

I would have thought the losses from charging a battery that then charges something else will probably be equal/worse than the odd beep here and there.

A decent adapter will protect against over charging.

http://cycle2charge.de

On a longer trip I can see the benefit of a battery but on commutes I just go direct.

I would have thought the losses from charging a battery that then charges something else will probably be equal/worse than the odd beep here and there.

A decent adapter will protect against over charging.

http://cycle2charge.de

On a longer trip I can see the benefit of a battery but on commutes I just go direct.

Possibly longer trips only, but that was just based on my experience when the backup battery failed and is was riding with a near flat garmin. The back light kept coming on and killed the battery faster than if id just unplugged it and not tried to charge it (which is what i did in the end once i got a bit of power in it from a decent stint at constant speed)

Top end snob here 😆

Schmidt SON deluxe on my commuter/tourer with a B&M Cyo light (can’t remember the precise model but it’s got an auto mode for daylight running). Don’t have a rear light wired up to it though really should get one. Currently use a Cateye hand grenade and a Moon Comet for rear lights.

Done about 5000Km with the above without any problems.

usb werk from Rose seems like a good way to charge, as it has a built in buffer battery to protect things when charging. Good value at £50. Don’t think it allows charging and lighting at the same time though.

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/b–m-usb-werk-power-supply-and-charger/aid:639422

some are not happy with the potentially high current at high speeds

This is not how electricity works. Voltage variation and over voltage is an issue but the device determines the current not the source. Also remember that the electricity at the USB has been transformed and regulated – hub dynamos (which are actually a magneto not a dynamo despite what it says on the box, but we don’t seem to bother with things like scientific accuracy in the cycle industry! Magneto is even a cooler name!) generate AC electricity and the USB provides DC.

If USB charging is important using something like the B+M IQ2 with a buffer battery gets rid of the annoying beeps.

I’m running a SONdelux on my rando build, also using the connecterless SL set up where the are no fittings needed, the dropout itself is the connector with the wires concealed within the fork blade. This will connect to an edelux 2 headlight and something at the rear too.

if it’s not too cheeky I happen to have a SONdelux for sale here:

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/son-dyno-hub-xt-29er700c-wheel-set#post-7120437

and very nice it is too.

I had a USB-Werk for a while, didn’t get on with it. When it was working, it was fine but it would often stop charging for no reason and and I’d have to unscrew all the connectors and reattach them, then cycle for a bit to see if it was working again.

I switched to the Cycle2charge top cap which has been faultless and charges my phone at anything above 5kph (lights and charging together needs higher speeds). For long road rides I just plug my phone straight in, for MTB/hilly rides I use a £10 cache battery from Maplin. The main thing with the cache is to make sure it the output isn’t higher than the input (or it will run down) and that it will do “pass through” charging.

For those wanting lighting and charging at the same time, years ago I used a Kemo charger connected across the rear light terminals of a Cyo (with no rear light). Seemed to work fine.

The Luxos U (well, mine at least) doesn’t provide constant charging, despite the battery: mine drops the charge current once the speed drops on climbs. Maybe there’s something wrong with it 😐

That Cycle2Charge looks nice. (Well, it looks hideous, but as a more affordable equivalent to The Plug it’s appealing.)

Another option?

http://www.bikecharger.de/shop/fahrrad-usb-ladeger%C3%A4t/

Agreed it’s not sleek. But it fades into the background with all the other crap Velcro’d to my bike. 😆

The bikecharger only has a 500mAh output compared to the cycle2charge’s 1000mAh.

I’ve literally just ordered a dynamo setup for my cheapish (350 quid) commuter. I went for relatively cheap stuff as i still want to be able to lock it up. I ordered from Rose
– Shimano DH-3d32 disc dyno hub – 25
– B + M Toplight Line Plus – 14
– B + M Lumotec Cyo T Premium Senso Plus – 40 (need something for unlit roads)
– 32 spokes – 12

So probably around 90 quid.

There’s a good light comparison here http://www.baslerbikes.de/index.php/baslerbikes-3scheinwerfervergleich-2014-maerz.html
The cyo seemed to have a nice spread without being dazzling

I have two set ups:

Commuter: SP hub/319 rim. £125 from Spa. Uses a B&M Cyo front and Topline rear. Perfect.

Tourer: Shimano 3N80 hub (Ultegra quality)/319 rim. £60 (yes, really) from Rose. Uses B&M Luxos U front and Topline rear. If speed drops below ~8mph it stops charging from the USB output. Also perfect.

Anyone care to comment on the side visibility of Edelux II versus the B&M Luxos IQ2? The Edelux seems to be very well built and uses the same reflector so far as I can tell, but misses the useful side lensing of the B&M which is good for road rides.

Well if anyones intersted i’ve fitted all my stuff and i’m pretty impressed with that Cyo Premium T. I went to the darkest place I could find in London (Richmond Park) and it was easily enough to ride at full pelt on unlit roads, including the descent, plus it doesn’t dazzle anyone! It seems to have an extra “T” mode as well which keeps the daytime lights on at night which gives it almost 270 degrees of light under the bike.

If its switched off the stand light capacitor lasts a few days too, so you can see what you’re doing in the shed when you turn it on next time.

You know what really suprises me is that it’s been about 3 years since the exposure revo mk1 came out and there hasn’t been a single nother offroad dynamo light, not even a mk2 revo?!

Well if anyones intersted i’ve fitted all my stuff and i’m pretty impressed with that Cyo Premium T. I went to the darkest place I could find in London (Richmond Park) and it was easily enough to ride at full pelt on unlit roads, including the descent, plus it doesn’t dazzle anyone!

Yup. Was riding mine (CYO Premium, Toplight rear) last night, unlit countryside roads and could see everything i wanted. The premium are really impressive. What made it even better was cars coming other way dropped main beam and cars overtaking gave me lots of room.

You know what really suprises me is that it’s been about 3 years since the exposure revo mk1 came out and there hasn’t been a single nother offroad dynamo light, not even a mk2 revo?!

Dont think they have had much take-up. Lot of places were doing them cheap for a while, prices seem to have crept up with nights drawing in. Always been pleased with mine for offroad use.

Anyone care to comment on the side visibility of Edelux II versus the B&M Luxos IQ2?

Late here.. but fwiw the Edelux 2’s only drawback is fast, tight corners where some more side-lighting would be good. But otherwise it’s a fantastic beam pattern from that reflector design, really needs to be used to be appreciated. I’ve not used the IQ2 as a comparison, bought the Edelux 2 for the solid construction, the reflector / beam pattern and I prefered a seperate USB-out device. Really happy with it for long road rides and easy off-road tracks.

usb werk from Rose seems like a good way to charge, as it has a built in buffer battery to protect things when charging. Good value at £50. Don’t think it allows charging and lighting at the same time though.

Happy with the USB-Werk here. I’m pretty sure it does charge as well as run the light, it’s all in series, but the drain on the small inline battery inside seems to be higher than the input / rate of charge when the light’s on.
The USB-Werk 500mah output is std for USB but the cycle2charge having 1ah is appealing. I use the USB-Werk in a gas-tank bag as I need a place for whatever’s being charged as well as the USB gubbins, so there’s less appeal to the steerer-mounted aspect of the Cycle2charge. Add a small inline cell to the C2C unit and I’m in.

I have XT785 hub, IQ Cyo Premium, Toplight. Didn’t like the non user serviceable bearings in the SP dynamo. I’d recommend a good German light that illuminates the road, and don’t worry what it looks like.

The German retailers do some really good deals on stock builds, or you can pick a custom build online if you have specific rim requirements.

Sp Hub and Exposure Revo.

First test ride tonight, and it has stunned me.

I will mainly be using it off road, so not too worried about the beam pattern.

You know what really suprises me is that it’s been about 3 years since the exposure revo mk1 came out and there hasn’t been a single nother offroad dynamo light, not even a mk2 revo?!

Supernova E3 Triple.

Pretty much the same spec as the Revo, but with options to fork mount it.

Considering a dynamo for my commuter, only conclusion I can find in this thread is just about any hub/light is good and money buys you polished aluminium (SP, Schmidt, Supernova) rather than shot-penned or plastic bits (Shimano, B&M)?