Hi,

I know this question has been asked a thousand times but I want to make sure I order the right bits.

Currently 2X10 SLX, Long cage, clutch etc, Giant Anthem 2015.

What do I need to convert to 1X10?

Chainring (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race-face-narrow-wide-single-chainring/rp-prod109723)
Cassette (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sunrace-mx3-10-speed-shimano-sram-cassette/rp-prod149194)
Chain (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc-x10-93-10-speed-chain/rp-prod120676)

Some questions;

– any better suggestions than the above bits? Cheaper would be good!
– will a long cage mech (albeit with clutch) be ok?
– will the chainline be OK? If not, what can I do about it?

Also, the freehub is very worn and I was told it is a giant specific part. I can get the freehub from a giant dealer (I think) but a bikey person said maybe consider a new set of wheels. Overkill?

Thanks.

All looks fine. Superstar or Uber are perhaps a little cheaper and work great.

Sunrace cassettes are dope so you should be ok there.

Chainline, you’ll have to see but I can’t see why you’d have much of a problem.

Freehub may just need replacing but I’d have doubted you need a whole new wheel, unless you want to upgrade.

No need for the longer cage but you already have it.

Cheaper? I’m presuming the current cassette is SLX … this means you can’t split it like the XT one but you can just add an expander…. and lose the 11T and add a 12T abs black cassette lock ring.

SRAM chains are meant to be better at not changing up when pedalling backwards on the 1x… this is a non issue for me but it is annoying when cleaning a bike.. far more than riding it. The issue is only really when you back pedal a few rotations it shifts .. but in riding you hardly do it and it shifts back anyway…(just something to be aware of) .. I guess different bikes it happens more or less….

I’ve got a 2015 XtC (which I can’t see being really different to your Anthem, its the same mech hanger) running an M680 SLX crank up front at the moment with a 34T NW .. On the back 11T removed (from a XT cassette) .. chainline works fine… I can get it to change down if I back pedal on the bike stand… and I’m running an XT 780 rear mech.

In other words unless you need to change the cassette anyway … no need.
Think about SRAM 10 speed chain if the backpedalling thing worries you…

Freehubs are on of two options…. neither are actually Giant Specific.
One is DT Swiss and the other is Formula from memory… there is a part # on the freehub so google to find out which

As to new wheels…. its always useful to have a spare set… at least you can stick 2 different tyre sets… I bought a set for £100 in the Superstar new year sale and after semi-rebuilding they are pretty good.. certainly for £100!

They are also wider so I keep some bigger tyres on them … and when I get around to replacing the freehub I’ll have wheels whilst I do it…

If you look for a Sunrace ms3.instead of mx3 you can probably save about £20 or a little more. Has steel cigs so a bit heavier but will last longer.

To reach the 42t with Shimano I thought you need a goat link or a rad r cage to get decent shifting across the block.

Oval chairing while you are at it. They are the business!

To reach the 42t with Shimano I thought you need a goat link or a rad r cage to get decent shifting across the block.

If you really want the 2 extra teeth …..
I’ve used 40T expanders on the same mech hanger without problems (and also on my kids XC bike) … Didn’t work great on my Whyte… but I didn’t really persist as I had a 11 speed setup waiting to be added.

I haven’t actually tried 42T on the 10x mech as it’s never been needed….
I did stick it on the 11 speed and for me its a wasted gear – (27.5 with 32T on the front) occasional use when riding up push-ups… (and I’m not that fit)

I’ve presently got a 34T on the XtC with 40T at the back… so its really a question (at least for me) of what size front chainring and if I mind the odd spin out on firetrails… above 30 mph (ish)…

All you need is a narrow wide chainring. If your chain and cassette are worn out you could get new ones but you don’t have to. A wider range cassette is popular but I’m fine on 11-36.

There is no point adding an expander to an 11-36 and removing the 11 – you just end up with a heavier more expensive cassette that shifts less well with no more range.

I’ve drilled the pins out on shimano cassettes to fit expanders with slx. Rad cages and goat links work better but not needed ime.

There is no point adding an expander to an 11-36 and removing the 11 – you just end up with a heavier more expensive cassette that shifts less well with no more range.

I doubt its heavier as your removing steel and replacing with alloy… but its not enough either way to worry… you can always add a 15T instead but that’s just more cost … and can always be done later as can the expander or wait until a new cassette is needed. However since the OP was looking at a 40T/42T I’m figuring they feel they might want to keep that option.

Equally shifts less well it bike dependent… it was noticeable on my Whyte but not on my Giant..

“Ideal range” is really where you (me or grumpster) want range… “technically” the gearing has more range with the expander but there is no point having range you don’t use…either way it’s a compromise so no point arguing technicalities. You can equally argue if gears are required at all… plenty of people manage on single speed.

I could probably live with the 36T on a 27.5.(in fact mainly do but its nice to have sometimes). not sure I would on a 29er…

I can also use the 11T … and for me the loss of the 11 is better than not having the 40…. even though I find (having got the 11 back on 11 speed) I potentially use it more… the 40T more or less replaces the old granny ring when its late, I’m knackered and there is a last big climb to a car park and such but also depends on the bike.. mostly its a safety blanket 😀 on the carbon HT its definitely more safety blanket on my FS that weighs significantly more and doesn’t have remote lockout on the rear shock (so I rarely bother) it was more useful…

So I don’t disagree its not absolutely needed…. depends on the bike and fitness of the rider but also what state you’re in and what you are riding….

I personally ditched the 2x because the granny ring was so rarely used and even less needed… but the 40T just provided that bail out gear… I find the 42T less useful…. and although I do use the 11T (possibly more than the 40) for me I prefer having the bail out…

Again.. very personal but for me the 42T was overkill and I got very little value going 11x over 10x…. (It’s not that its not better but £££/better)

Based on my experience with the same mech hanger I’d say either way the 42T is pushing the XT rear mech…. so its a question of if the SLX one performs the same or not… if it does then no goat link etc. needed for that mech hanger @ 40T…but I’d guess it would be for 42T (based on b-crew etc.)

FWIW An 11 speed XT rear mech is quite happy up to 46t, and has the same pull ratio as 10 speed.

Depends in terms of gearing as to what you require.

On my last bike when I went 1×10 I had a 32t up front and an 11-42 Sunrace at the back. The 32/42 combination have me the same lowest gear pretty much as ainhad on the 2×10 setup – but for the riding I do I wanted that but wasn’t bothered about the loss of highest gears as I rarely (if ever) used them.

On the new bike I’ve got 11 speed and as the bike is quite a bit heavier / longer travel I’ve gone even easier – 30t up front and 10-42 at the back. The 10t compensates mostly for the 2t lost in the chainring.

“Ideal range” is really where you (me or grumpster) want range…

That comes down to chainring size – choose the cassette that gives the spread you want and choose the chainring that puts that spread in the right range for you.

Thanks for all the feedback. Will check out the gearing and see how it compares to what I have now. My preference is for low end stuff rather than top speed.

Given the cage on my rear mech was probably bent a bit after recent exploits it may be worth investing in a radr cage and go for a 42t cassette. My current cassette is worn out so needs replacing rather than expanding.

My only concern now is chainline. I’ll get on with this shortly and report back.

Cheers.

Don’t worry about chainline – it really doesn’t matter with 1x.

Thanks for all the feedback. Will check out the gearing and see how it compares to what I have now. My preference is for low end stuff rather than top speed.

Don’t go OTT on comparing to what you have now based on what you think you use/need or at least go out specially and test objectively.

As Chiefgroove said … it’s quite possible on a 36T…. if you’re willing to compromise on top speed fitting a 30T at the front … I personally find a 40T rear and 32T front more than OK on a heavier-slightly more travel bike than your Anthem (T-130) … but mostly “too much” on a lighter climber bike (XtC advanced 27.5) and it’s also not ideal in terms of the gaps for an XC bike

Given the cage on my rear mech was probably bent a bit after recent exploits it may be worth investing in a radr cage and go for a 42t cassette. My current cassette is worn out so needs replacing rather than expanding.

Chain, cassette, rear mech, chainring … ?
You’re not far off just going 1×11 on M7000 if you get a i-spec B or bar mount shifter…???

I maintain 4 bikes – 2 of which aren’t mine (the commuter doesn’t really get maintained :roll:) and it’s the spares bin prevents me going 11 speed on 3 of them…. Replacement bits just get harder/more expensive … so once the spares bin gets empty I’ll move over.

My only concern now is chainline. I’ll get on with this shortly and report back.

I’m pretty sure it will work…. it’s just a matter of how well.
My Giant worked very well…. the Whyte less so…. but I could have played about… I just had everything except shifter for M8000 that I’d got in various sales etc. so in the end I forked out the £35 for a unused ispec-b shifter rather than try and fix it.

I’d recommend the SRAM chain if going 40T/42T… as it avoids/mitigates the back pedal thing…. which might or might not happen….

Chainline does affect wear…. so it is worth thinking about but not critical with NW.