I've just started using a remote flash with my 400D, after a lot of umming and ahhing about what kit I should go with. First time out, a few pics on yesterday from Swinley, just random riders who wanted to play for the camera.

It has to be said it was a bit 'hit and hope' because all I really know is what I've read in the instruction manual and from looking at other people's work on Flickr.

These pics are straight off the camera, they've only been cropped, no touching up or other processing at all.

Constructive criticsm needed please 🙂

I like this one because it's got some movement in it, but his face is pretty crisp. Flash tied to a tree, head hight, camera left, 1/4 power Camera f5, 1/125, 400ISO.

This is the best shot I got from this sequence, I was just unlucky with the shadow over his face 🙁
Flash camera right, just below level of the jump. f5, 1/160, 400ISO

Go on then, rip 'em to shreds…. 😕

Hmm, there's this one of WCA too. This was my very first shot ever with the flash. A bit over exposed on his face, but otherwise…..?

f5.6, 1/100th, 400ISO, not sure about the flash, but it's on the floor camera right. 🙂

When using off camera flash, remember that the aperture controls your ambient (background light) and your shutter speed controls your flash exposure.

So in real terms, f 5.6 is fine, however if you increase your shutter speed from 1/100th to 1/200th or 1/250th (dependant on max flash sync speed of your set up) then the face of your rider wont be so overexposed and you freeze a bit more movement in your subjects.

Here are some of my images for you to take a look at…

strobist shots

This is no way a definitive answer to you question but I would suggest that you take a look at some of these images on here and learn from their setups and technique

Strobist extreme

When using off camera flash, remember that the aperture controls your ambient (background light) and your shutter speed controls your flash exposure.

Thanks for that, I'm planning to get into strobist when I can get some Cactus triggers, that's a good thing to remember

This is the best shot I got from this sequence, I was just unlucky with the shadow over his face

Kind of, but also bad planning – it's a jump, he's going to be in the air – you need to make sure your position your flash in a location where there will be no interference. As you say though aprt from the shadow, a nice pic.

Snapper, thanks for that simple explanation, Ill take a look at your pics 🙂

tree's are a leaning a little too much for my liking (espically in the second picture, WFT is that all about?!?) and the trail could do with a bit of a good sweep up.

To be honest I'd avoid the cactus triggers like the plague. In this type of environment there next to useless.

Have a hunt around on ebay for something like the ctr-301 triggers. There alot more reliable and stable and wont snap off at the mounting brackets.

There are some more designs around but there a little more expensive.

If you have any other questions, then please feel free to ask

To be honest, from looking at your pics and settings again, i'd drop the ISO to 100 or dependant on your camera to 200. As this effects your light exposure, which as you hitting your subject with flash, then it will only create noise on the image.

NBT – I can reccommend Gadget Infinity for Cactus triggers. My V4s were $45 delivered, took just over a week

I wish I understood all of the settings better on my camera. I know what aperture and shutter speed are and the theory of the affect that they have but I still end up on the auto setting with my camera.

Snapper036 – you've got some great shots there.

and your shutter speed controls your flash exposure.

did you mean that ? The flash will be ~ 1/1000th of a sec regardless of shutter so only aperture controls flash exposure…

As this effects your light exposure, which as you hitting your subject with flash, then it will only create noise on the image.

what does that mean ?

Simon, my flash exposure times get faster as you turn the power down. 1/16th power is 1/16000th sec, and 1/1000th at full power

http://www.popphoto.com/Reviews/Accessories/Vivitar-285HV-Review/Vivitar-285HV-Review

as a 'looker' rather than a 'taker' the only thing that spoils the first one is the 3/4 of a rider under the bottom bracket

RD – LOL! Yes I see what you mean. 🙂

Have a look at the rest of the set….

surely all these images are better that the ones by the guys that set up at events like rough ride.?..
i'd start selling these if I were you you – i'd buy one! (of me).

could you set up a website with dates, locations and thumbnails on?

maybe hand out cards to riders you shoot?

good work

About the ISO setting: It was a bit murky under the trees, so rather then open the apeture up too wide (I've discovered my lens isn't so sharp much below f5) I increased the ISO a bit. It only gets really grainy at 1600ISO.

I nearly did it this time, but next weekend at CGs Swinley STW ride, I'm going to take my Canon f1.8 50mm prime, which is one hell of a sharp lens but not as versitile as the Sigma 17-70. Looking through the set a lot of them were taken at about 50mm anyway.

As simonfbarnes has pointed out, my bad!

I meant to say :

shutter speed (at speeds longer than you max sync speed) has no effect on flash exposure because the flash is so quick that you're getting the full flash no matter what. however a slower shutter speed allows you to soak up more ambient.

It's the flash power that changes the exposure on anything illuminated by the flash.

and the Aperture affects both.

PJB, I wouldn't DARE try to sell mine. I do it for fun. The chap in the second pic and his mates took my email address and I let them have the pics for free. I only do it because I enjoy it. 🙂

As simonfbarnes has pointed out, my bad!

I meant to say :

shutter speed (at speeds longer than you max sync speed) has no effect on flash exposure because the flash is so quick that you're getting the full flash no matter what. however a slower shutter speed allows you to soak up more ambient.

It's the flash power that changes the exposure on anything illuminated by the flash.

and the Aperture affects both.

And if I've got this wrong again them I'm going home!..damn cold!! cant bloody think straight today 😀

When using off camera flash, remember that the aperture controls your ambient (background light) and your shutter speed controls your flash exposure.

Great explanation and photos but I always thought it was the other way round – aperture controls flash, shutter speed controls ambient.

The flash duration is usually around 1/1000th of a second, meaning the flash will fire completely within any shutter speed longer than 1/1000th.

For example, shutter speed of 1/250th means the shutter is open 4 times longer than the flash duration. A slower shutter of, say, 1/100th, will let more ambient in but still let the entire flash burst in, as would a faster shutter speed of 1/500th, so the only way to control the amount of flash in this case is to use the aperture (or ISO).

Increasing shutter speed will still reduce exposure of the riders face and freeze action as stated. Aperture affects both.

…and I need to type faster as the corrections have already been pointed out!

Simon, my flash exposure times get faster as you turn the power down. 1/16th power is 1/16000th sec, and 1/1000th at full power

which doesn't affect my point that the flash is shorter than the shutter speed in almost all cases, so only the aperture controls the flash exposure

Garvity Slave – Woah. Heavy man. 😉

Another question – I'm using 2nd curtain sync on the flash. Good or bad?

PeterPoddy – Member

NBT – I can reccommend Gadget Infinity for Cactus triggers. My V4s were $45 delivered, took just over a week

thanks but I'll be ordering from FlashInThePan over on the talkphotography forum – similar prices, uk seller, and I'll hopefully get a couple of diffusers as well

aperture controls flash, shutter speed controls ambient.

As I said your both right and it was my bad explanation/typing to start with.

the flash is shorter than the shutter speed in almost all cases, so only the aperture controls the flash exposure

Okayyyyyyy. I think I understand.
So, in my first pic up there, to get a brighter background I would need to use a slower shutter speed at the same apeture, right? 🙂 (Being as I think the rider is perfectly exposed)

thanks but I'll be ordering from FlashInThePan over on the talkphotography forum – similar prices, uk seller, and I'll hopefully get a couple of diffusers as well

I'd look at the newer Yongnuo RF-602 triggers over the Cactuses, while I haven't tried them yet the reports over on strobist seem to suggest they're better.

As above, look at Stobist – especially Lighting 101 – a good grounding in basics of kit and use thereof…..

Re above shots – only comment would be to suggest you get the flash higher up – 2nd shot is a belter, but for the shadow of his arm giving him a zorro mask 😀

Re 2nd curtain sync – 2nd curtain only really comes in to play if you're wanting to show movement before hitting it with flash to freeze it –
using a biker coming past you at speed for example (apologies if you know all this…)
Front curtain sync – flash fires 'when you hit shutter release', freezes the bike but then you get blur in front as the ambient exposure continues – net effect it kind of makes things look like they are going backwards.
2nd curtain sync – flash goes off at the end of the exposure – i.e – you get a nice blur on the ambient exposure, freezing the action just before the shutter closes, so your subject looks like it is moving forward…..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RF-602-Wireless-FLash-Trigger-for-Nikon-D60-D40X-D200_W0QQitemZ280402219379QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL?hash=item4149465173