I have XM521 rims and Conti X King (2.4, folding).

I know that riding style plays a big part in snake bites, but are some tires worse than others?

These X Kings seem far more snake-bite prone than the Maxis they’ve replaced. Perhaps not, I just think so.

If the tires do make a difference, any recommendations? 2.3″ – 2.4″, good for lose, dusty trails.

Thanks

tubeless?

Yes. I have always found conti’s to be very snake bite prone where as Maxxis are generally quite good.

My recommendation however is to go tubeless.

I guess I could get my luddite-arse into gear a go tubeless.

Do you really need a £50 Stans kit? Can I just use rim strips and a load of fluid?

Is that all there is to it? I have access to a massive compressor.

i’ve had good success with gorilla tape (from hobbycraft/B&Q, about £7 a roll) and susperstar valves (£7? for a pair)

bottle of sealant and off you go

Talcum powder all over the tube before you put it in the tyre, you’re welcome!

Going tubeless doesn’t stop snakebite punctues. It just transfers the snakebite from the tube (cheap to replace easy to fix) to the tyre (expensive to replace/very difficult to fix).

If you’re getting a lot of snakebite punctures (as I used to do), then you can do one of four things.

1) Slow down so that you don’t smash into things so hard. If that doesn’t appeal (as I’m sure it doesn’t) then go to:
2)Pick a better line that avoids smashing into things quite so much. If you’re already doing that (and I’m sure you are) then go to:
3) Run your tyres at the right pressure; 25psi is probably too low and 40psi probably too hard. 30-35psi is about right for most 2.3-2.5 tyres. If you’re already doing that then:
4) Run dual ply tyres, either tubeless or otherwise but probably tubeless is preferably because it saves weight on what will be a significantly heavier tyre.

Having a heavier and thicker (and therefore more robust) sidewall is the only really effective way to rule them out. Yes you can run much higher pressures, but you’ll ruin cornering ability with your tyres at 50psi. It’s a pain in the arse but you can mitigate the weight penalty by starting with just a rear dual ply and running it tubeless.

Thanks all.

@Scaled. No FLats Joe’s rim tapes are £15 for 2 (with valves) so even cheaper than the gorilla tape method. Is gorrila tape better?

@bright. How will that stop snakebites?

@Geetee.

But, I guess the tire wouldn’t always snakebite where a tube would have.

1. Doesn’t appeal

2. I try – obviously not always successfully* 🙂

3. 36psi front and rear yesterday

4. I’ll have a go with tubeless with my current tires and then, if that’s not working too well, look at dual ply.
Why did you say start with just a rear dual ply? My snake bites are exactly 50:50 front and rear. 4 front and 4 back in the last 3 rides.

*I don’t mind the weight penalty. It’s not a light bike, and I like not having to be too careful with line choice.

IME, FWIW:

– tubeless greatly reduced the number of snakebites, although doing it to a tire is much more of a problem than doing it to a tube;
– different tyres make a huge difference (never done it using Hans Dampfs, did it repeatedly with Specialized).

I’m waiting for a Pro-core kit, which is the most expensive method yet developed of preventing them.

🙂

I used to be a serial pinch punchurerer.

Went tubeless and life is so much nicer. I have non-tubeless rims with Superstar tubeless tape and valves, works fine for me.

Am I right in thinking if you remove Gorilla tape it leaves a sticky mess?

I have found Contis very prone to puncturing – snake bike and the run of the mill ones.

Tyre.
Tyre, tyre, tyre.

Tyre

Hope that helps

As above, you can still pinch on tubeless, but it’s far less common. Maybe I pinch 10-20% as often since switching to tubeless. It’s still a pain in the ass when it happens. The Contis seem particularly prone to small pinches close the bead which are impossible to fix on the trail and I end up running a tube (and usually pinching again because I’m no longer tubeless).

Conti have many versions, their Apex should be what your after (much stiffer sidewalls), then Protection, their Race Sport is pretty flimsy but light. Which do you have?

You could add (heavy) DH tubes.

Another vote for tubeless. Initially I was worried about the rims as on occasion you hear a really loud prang type sound which you think that would have been a pinch…but touch wood everything has been fine. LB rims with racing Ralph’s.

Some rims/tyres just don’t seem to want to go tubeless and some go up first time with a track pump. Set aside an afternoon just in case, and go for a ride if you do it super fast

Yes

Tyre it is the wall stiffness you need to look at Maxxis Exo is much stiffer than Snakeskin or standard continental sidewall. The Continental Protection is far stiffer than EXO so is Super Gravity.

Pressure also makes a big difference as well.

Different tubes for example continental supersonic are super thin and weigh 100g I use continental Mtb that weigh 200g Freeride weigh 285g DH 436g

I had loads when I was using Specialized tubes and tyres on the old bike (~1 in every 3 rides), cut down to almost zero once I switched to Maxxis Ardents and thick Continental inner tubes. Not had any so far on the new bike with Maxxis High Roller IIs (no idea what inners as I haven’t had to change them yet!). Can’t say I’ve changed my riding style much, so I’d say tyres have a lot to do with it.

Tubeless is a big step forward but I found I needed to be careful which tyre I used. LUSTs didn’t work for me for example. SCheaper worked great as did maxxis. I still pinched regularly and it was when I had my weight too far back. Interestingly I changed from a pretty short bike to a very long one and I haven’t had a pinch since. Different suspension and the orbea has fantastic performance at the rear so maybe that is it but I think the longer bike increases the sweet spot in the center and means you are less likely to get in that off the back, all the weight on the rear tyre situation. Just my theory, could be nonsense!

Why did you say start with just a rear dual ply? My snake bites are exactly 50:50 front and rear. 4 front and 4 back in the last 3 rides.

Just because in my experience I had far more pinch punctures on the rear than the front. It’s easier to avoid square edge hits on the front (because you’re front wheel pretty much tracks where you look and while the rear tends to follow, it doesn’t always follow the exact same track as your line changes). I also found it easier to unweight the front wheel slightly, which also reduces the frequency.

Tubeless will reduce the instances of pinch punctures I agree. It depends on what kind of terrain you’re riding over. In place like the Peak and Lake District, where I used to ride a lot, and in DH races in Wales, there weren’t many cases of pinch punctures that were marginal. Usually if I had an impact that pinched a tube, it was also enough to pinch a tyre.

When I moved to the Surrey Hills area, I ran tubeless and never had puncture of any kind!