Hi all. I figure there is no harm in throwing this to the board, as I cant call the RAC man till the morning now (well i could, but there wouldn’t be much point in getting towed to the garage at 19:00)

I drove home this evening, 15 miles ish (i could ride it, and do from time to time but its a tedious run). All running fine. No coughs or splutters recently so no warning at all

Pulled up to the house, and switched the car off. The radio went off with the ignition (which it isnt supposed to do) which i thought was odd. I tried to turn the radio back on (it should come on, even over eco mode as its an aftermarket unit) and it didnt.

Turned the key to ACC, and the side lights and wipers came on (but no radio still)
all stalks are in the off position, so the car has decided it wants them on its own.

Car cranks fine (new-ish battery) but just wont start.

temperature gauge indicates normal running temperature (95degC)
Ive checked all the important fuses (a couple under the dash i couldn’t get to to be fair, so didnt check)

Ive read that a car that wont start from hot could be suffering from many issues, but most of them mechanical, and relatively simple and cheap to replace. (Crank position sensors, Fuel pumps etc.)

but that wouldn’t explain the lights and wipers i dont think?

which makes me think its the ECU.
Possibly a spike in turning the key back to off browned out the ECU? (and radio?)
hope the radio isnt borked, its pretty new! (should have the receipt though i think)

The car is currently cooling down fully. I will give it a go once its cold, but i suspect that the recovery man may have to be called out, and i suspect he will either reset the ECU, or have to tow it.
Boooo!!

any thoughts?

Its an ’05 2.0l HDi, not that that makes any difference i dont think.

Sounds more like some dodgy French wiring.

My wife had an original Twingo that started doing daft things like the wipers stopping working, then the indicators, then the whole thing stopped!

We had to drag it to the garage where they found a broken wiring loom.

You’ve Probably got Canbus which can be quite problematic.

First port of call, check battery terminals are tight and check earths from battery. Check leads to starter. These can fatigue and snap in their terminals due to engine movement. Just cos things are powering up doesn’t mean the connection is good enough to crank it over. Can you hear the starter solenoid when the ignition is tried. Could it be sticking etc. Is it immobilised by accident?

it cranks fine. It just doesnt start.
fuel pumps run as normal, pressure in fuel system sounds ok (no indications that it isnt at least)

because of this, it is the odd behaviour of the radio, and side lights, which makes me think its an ECU issue.

No abnormal lights on the dash

EML is on, but it always is for a second or two until the engine has started and settled.
Might be cool now, will go have a look….

Sounds more like some dodgy French wiring.

Friends had a Espace of same vintage, and it used to randomly stop while driving until it ‘reset’ itself or switch on wipers or unlock itself and open windows or switch lights on (incl. indicators!) etc etc.

still not properly cold. with the bonnet up the fuel pumps run, then stop (as normal) and SOMETHING ticks very very quietly. Either the ABS unit, or something in the fuse box. sounds more like a motor/relay tick to me. If ABS units tick while powered up that would rule that out.

French electrics in unreliability shocker!

Im guessing youve got a peugeot or citroen of some kind? Sounds like the com2000 unit has died. Its a magic box that cotrols lights dash and things like imobiliser. Depending on what car youve got itl be hiding somewhere on or near the steering column.

From experience, as above check battery and then main engine earths ( gearbox area 13mm bolt and condition of wife)
But from your explanation it sounds like the Bsi ( body computer ) if the side lights are on then it’s 100% a Bsi fault or wiring to it. Not cheap or easy as it’s the storage point for every thing so you cannot fit or try a 2nd hand unit
Please update with the rac report and I’ll help more if I can

Just what I was going to say. Unfortunately the BSI unit has to be reprogrammed to match the rest of the car setting e.t.c so it need someone with official software to gain the access and reconfigure.

Have a look in your hand book for a bsi reset procedure you may get lucky and a reset will sort it.

Easiest way to reset the Bsi is to disconnect battery leave for 10 mins , reconnect again wait 5 mins for the Bsi to reset and immob to reset then try to start it.
I’ve worked for Peugeot/citroen for 20 years so when the rac has done his check , let me know and I’ll do my best to advise the cheapest route to repair it!!! Where about are you?

I’d disconnect the battery. Wait a few minutes for everything to discharge and reconnect and try again. Hey! it works for most things

Ah, beaten to it.

I’ve seen a low/nearly flat battery do all sorts of weird things to an ECU…

Pulled the red terminal off, stowed it safe and gone to the pub. I’ll reconnect it in the morning, giving it 15mins to reboot before doing anything else to it. After that, its a tow truck. Cheers chaps. Sounds like it is probably what i suspected. My mum had two 206s. One was a gem, another needed an ecu reboot every 6 months. This is my second too. First one got written off in a crash, this is the first issue either have had. Ho hum. Itl be reet. Cheers all. I’ll keep you updated.

Ok partially embarrassing update

I checked 95% of the fuses, but there were a couple I just couldn’t get to with my big manly hands!

Annoyingly, this report to the RAC man meant a “ah well, i wont wast my time then, sounds like the computer anyway” and a rigid tow in the lashing rain with no wipers or lights or even hazards to the local garage. (his wheel lift jobbies had broken down, so it ended up quite exciting)

Turns out the wiring loom for my DAB radio was shonky (cheers autoleads) and it HAD blown a fuse.

On a positive side, i got some peugeot pros to diagnose it, and they corrected the fault. i now have a certified safe installation!

on the downside, I got charged £117 for a fuse! That’s worse than my headlight blowing on the way for an MOT, and having to get it changed by the garage. (I felt like such a girl)

still, a LOT less expensive than a new BSI, and the loom has been sorted, so suck it up.

Cheers all!