Right got myself a hack bike with a std QR drop out. But I want to go SS.

Is a half link chain adequate on it’s own or will I always need a tensioner regardless of chain type.

and if so, whats the better one?

this type

or this

Ta

Dave

The on-one device is better i reckon, easier to get the chain off

Half link doesn’t sound a good idea on its own with vert dropouts. Might work for a bit but you’d be arsing around with different cogs to get it just right, and then the chain’s going to stretch a wee bit over time etc. Get the tensioner – not used a superstar type one (no spring? presume that just bolts on to put the chain in the right tension?), but I had one like the on one for years and it was great.

Half links will not quite crack it half the time, in my experience it needs a tensioner, we have both of the above in the house, both OK but spring ones (the bottom ones) are easier and IMO better.

Always try and use a half link if you can get the magic length. However, once the chain starts to stretch you will have slack anyway.
Might as well just use the tensioner.

Slidey drop outs for me 😉

I use one that’s the same design as the superstar job, and it work fine.

I tried an S-link chain but couldn’t get the perfect tension hence the need for a tensioner.

I run ss on my cotic bfe. I use a half link which means I can get the chain as tight as possible and then use one of those superstar tensioners to tension the chain fully.

In my experience the fixed superstar tensioner is the best one Ive used – better than those sprung tensioners. Removing the back wheel is no harder than it is without a tensioner.

I use a pauls comp melvin with standard dropouts,

works a treat and i feel its the best setup for me,

I’ve never in years got a half link to work on its on.

Magic ratios are great, but as chains stretch they don’t stay magic. Having the choice of a half-link doubles the chances of finding a useable magic ratio.

My experience has been:
1. Started with a magic ratio without a half-link
2. Chain stretched so I used a ghost ring as a tensioner. Chain stretched some more to the point where the ghost ring fell out regularly.
3. ‘Added’ (strictly, subtracted) a half-link, and binned the ghost ring. That was too tight to get the wheel in, so I had to go from an 18T to a 17T at the back. That was spot on (for quite a while).
4. Chain is almost stretched enough to need the ghost ring back in…

Summary: A half-link is handy, but at some point you’ll still need some kind of tensioner

I’ve found that a short cage rear mech works really well as a tensioner. I have a DMR Tension Seeker and it’s good but when you want to remove the wheel it’s a bit of a bugger as it has a black thing thats meant to go in the dropout over the axle.

horizontal dropouts are the way forwards for SS, though! But it does limit your bikes versatility somewhat if you fancy running gears later on..

tensioners nearly always work better. mostly better pushing up than pushing down as well, better wrap around the cog at the back.

track ends and a bolt up axle FTW though

After trying and breaking a number of the lower photo type tensioners, I moved to the upper type and have had no problems whatsoever. Better chain wrap too.

Only echoing [almost] everyone, but yeah, bolt in/on tensioner pushing a half-link chain.I’ve had my Kona set up like this for ages, and it’s a joy.

How’s the Spot going vortex?

I had not come across the concept of a ghost ring before. So I’m just posting this image to clarify:

Another thing I want to try is something like the blackspire stinger tensioning near the chainring rather than having something at the rear. Will make it easier to get the back wheel out but I dunno if it’d tension the chain enough?

Another thing I want to try is something like the blackspire stinger tensioning near the chainring rather than having something at the rear. Will make it easier to get the back wheel out but I dunno if it’d tension the chain enough?

I bought one off here to try that but it wouldnt tension the chain enough. Saying that, my rear tensioner is pushing down rather than up so my chain is quite slack anyway.

Only thing is, its preobably a bit more of a faff to set up and adjust when you need to

spot is going alright thanks, not had much chnace to try it properly, i’ve been in Florida with the wife and kids.

going to try a weekend in Wales and a 4 day break in Spain, so that should test it out. I’ve got a set of Lyriks, so just wondering if I should try those on it. Still trying to find out if a coil will fit the dmall frame. The limted riding I have had shows that it is much better tat climbing than the Ventana but seems more ‘pert’ when descending

Cheers for the advice guys looks like a tensioner is needed, the frame is a vertical drop out so although a horizontal would be better I’m stuck with what I’ve got.

Good stuff. Lyrik will go well with it.

yeah, but is 1.5lbs heavier than the rev 🙁

Have a big dump before you head out 8)