En suite shower looks a bit manky so want to remove and redo silicone.

Been working with a blade to remove but not perfect.

So, how can I fully remove (including surface black ‘gunk’) to ensure best possible surface to apply new?

Likely get local plumber to apply new as he is coming to fix part of shower…plus I’m sure he is more skilled in application than me….

Thanks!

WD40 softens it right up. Messy but gets rid of the old stuff a treat.

I remove it with a new stanley knife blade.

You can get holders which will stop you cutting your fingers to shreds or you can can wrap the back in lots of tape and possibly were some gloves (if you still have the dexterity with them on).

Hold the knife at a nice shallow angle and shave the silicone off the bath/tiles etc. Be careful not to damage the surfaces or cut your fingers with the back of the blade.

screwfix and the like sell some silicone softener which helps loads.

Get as much as you can off with a Stanley blade then use sealant remover.
The remover is expensive though.

Get as much as you can off with a Stanley blade then use sealant remover.

This +1

I got most of mine off with a blade so didn’t need the remover.

Use Dow Corning 785+ to reseal it http://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-corning-785-bacteria-resistant-sanitary-silicone-white-310ml/58308

A nice sharp chisel is by far the easiest way.

Cleaner than silicone remover and less fiddly than Stanley blades.

(I’ve done a lot of bathrooms and haven’t found an easier and faster method)

Just after application, dip finger in white spirit and run finger over sealant to smooth out.

If it is transparent it will harder to remove than any of the coloured types.
Always use clear for the best seal and or sticking things together, if you want it easy to remove down the line use one of the colours.

+1 for WD40 for removal.

phunkmaster – Member

Just after application, dip finger in white spirit and run finger over sealant to smooth out.
I was told off for doing that by my joiner as it introduces bacteria into the silicone surface.
He said use babywipes.

(all second hand info)

Just bleach the old stuff (if it and everything around is or will be white) brings it back to looking like new

I was told off for doing that by my joiner as it introduces bacteria into the silicone surface.
He said use babywipes.
(all second hand info)

are you sure he didn’t mean don’t lick your finger and smooth it?

finger in white spirit is going to be pretty sterile. Not sure I would use white spirit in case it messes with the cure. The little shaper tools that give you a constant radius are pretty good if you keep them clean.

AlexSimon – Member

I was told off for doing that by my joiner as it introduces bacteria into the silicone surface.
He said use babywipes.

(all second hand info)

So I guess using saliva, as recommended by my friend, is way out? 😳

He said use babywipes a plastic teaspoon and white spirit

😉 everyone’s an expert

Edit: Is that right about white spirit? Soapy water it is, then.

I used a stanley knife with a carpet cutting (hooked) blade last time I did our bathroom, have to be careful as there no flex in the blade but it got into all the nooks & crannies without chopping further into the plaster underneath (the outer end hook is blunt).
Replaced the old silicon that went bad seemingly within the year with STW recommended Dow & Corning 875 , been giving it a wipe over with bleach occasionally & looks good so far.

Finger dipped in soapy water works a treat, but tbh most of the time I’ll just lick my finger, tastes horrible though!

Oops sorry – I misread the original as spit (instead of white spirit)!
Carry on as you were. It’s spit he was telling me off for.

Licked finger and sharp chisel or stanley scraper For best results then clean area with bleach before application. I use CT1 silicone its got anti fungal built in and can even be applied underwater!!! Good stuff its what we use around hand basins in commercial kitchens.

+1 CT1

I just did our 3 bathrooms and it was a learning curve, mate is a tiler and he showed me his secrets.
Sharp blades to cut it out then wd40 and a green scrubber to tidy it up. Clean down with alcohol, externally not internally.
Get an empty spray bottle and fill with detergent and water mix, apply silicone bead, spray with detergent then use a lollipop stick to work the silicone in and also get it into the recesses with the grout. Spray the stick as well of course. It made a tedious painful messy job really quick and easy.

It’s amazing how a crap job can look great to some people. I would hate to see some of the examples above because it sounds like most of you are spreading marmite on toast.

Chisel here too. Then some sealant dissolver before back to the chisel.

Then a wipe with meths before applying the new sealant.

it sounds like most of you are spreading marmite on toast.

I can’t imagine how bad the finish would be using a plastic spoon to apply sealant(as mentioned above)

I laughed in the face of the rep when he showed me a silicone finishing tool in the merchants, many moons ago. I told him how I had a set of five finishing tools on every hand!

Wet your finger, soapy water if you must and gently finish with your finger. JD.

How weird, just sipping a post sealing beer. Stanley knife, wd40 to remove, clean and dry with hot air gun, then silicon rubber glove wiping off on kitchen towel to smooth.

A dry silicone glove on silicone sealant to finish ?

Bet that drags a bit.

Only so much as to turn the convex bead concave, seems perfect to me. Cleans off well on the kitchen towel for the next section

firepoiboy – Member

How weird, just sipping a post sealing beer. Stanley knife, wd40 to remove, clean and dry with hot air gun, then silicon rubber glove wiping off on kitchen towel to smooth.
this is getting more and more ridiculous.

gears_suck – at some point are you thinking of making a useful contribution to this thread? No?

I fit kitchens and use silicone/caulk etc every week.
Removal, anything sharp, chisel normally.
Sealing stuff so it still looks good after 6 mths, I use more clear than white/black etc. just seems to be better.
Get a good skeleton gun, I get mine from UPVC suppliers, cost about £8 but they just work better than the 99p ones from b&q.
Apply sealant, then (call them if you want) using a wet 5/6mm 45′ chamfered sealant tool, run it over what you’ve just applied. Job done, no mess.
What I found when revisiting jobs after a few months, before I started using the tools, on a 90′ joint, after smoothing with my finger the edges of the sealant were unsightly and were peeling back slightly, with the tools you get a perfect 45′ fillet and still looked spot on.

Finally, someone with a clue. +1 russ295

AlexSimon – Member
gears_suck – at some point are you thinking of making a useful contribution to this thread? No?

I make my living by doing a professional and quality job. I’m not in the habit of disclosing my trade skills to a bunch of DIYers. It’s how I make my living. And fortunately, see evidence above, there are enough clowns out there making a mess of it that I stay busy correcting failed attempts to perform plumbing work.
Hats off to russ though. You can all go self employed now.

I learned off a mastic geezer on a job years ago propper old geezer and could still do perfect sealing without tools. Its a knack I never get any over seal on my joints? Steady hand and experience.

What did people use before these sealant tools?…… next someone will saying that brickie mate tool thing can build a bloody house!!! Still awaiting to see one on site!!!!