Yeah, I know. I think this has been done before but I can’t find it.

Back in the day when I learned to build wheels it seemed like it was normal practice to lube the nipples before putting them on, and that’s how I’ve done it ever since. However in the interests of taking in the collective wisdom of this place – is that still standard practice or are things done differently now?

I do, just thin oil

Copaslip on the thread and chain lube on the nipple bed is my preference.

Tx folks. Keep on lubin’ it is

I tend to use any motor oil I have left around as you only need a tad..

.lube my nips an dip my spoke ends although never thought of copa slip…(is copper an alloy a good mix ? I always wonder with differing metals as weird sht happens over time)

I think it just makes it harder to get the tension right if you don’t lube as the nipple drags on the rim.

I use either Linseed oil (old days) or olive oil (these days). So there’s always some handy.

The alloy I use is brass, but without anything in there, alu nipples seize so it can’t be any worse.

Old fork oil here.

Good point.. I always forget about the virtues of brass nipples…..

I enjoy building wheels but find unless I’m building something a bit different I just buy off the shelf as it’s cheaper so build less regularly 🙁

I think it just makes it harder to get the tension right if you don’t lube as the nipple drags on the rim.

good point. I used to just oil the threads but i’ll do the heads as well this time

While i was reading up on this again I see that there is now a spoke tension app for ifans. Has anyone ever tried it? It’s a funny but possibly good idea

leffeboy – Member
While i was reading up on this again I see that there is now a spoke tension app for ifans. Has anyone ever tried it?…

I think it’s a pain in the posterior. I prefer my Park Tensionometer and a notebook.

The graph in the iPhone app is great though.

Linseed oil is probably a good call, but it does leave a sticks mess!

Linseed oil is the old way of doing it. It will dry out and lock the nipples in place if I recall correctly. I wouldn’t, personally.
I use a light oil on my wheels, works fine. All you need to do is lube the thread to minimise spoke twist when tightening and to stop the thread corroding and locking over time. I’ve got wheels I’ve built like this that are 4 years old or more and the nipples still turn easily if needed

I think it’s a pain in the posterior

I think you moght be right. I just tried checking using my guitar tuner and it was very difficult to get repeatable results, especially as it also depends on where the spokes cross unless you try and force the crossing spoke out of the way

For lubing I might give Copaslip a try just because I have some

I was taught that it was a no no.

Billyboy, why? Some people thing a lubes/greased nipple will come lose, which it will with insufficient tension but that’s nothing to do with the lube. A well tensioned wheel won’t come loose whether you lube it or not. As lube helps you get that well tensioned wheel, I can’t see a downside.

slight hijack, sorry, what do people use to grease the nipple rims if using carbon rims? Would carbon paste be ok?

If it were me, I’d probably use something like finish line stanchion lube as its very inert. That or a fully synthetic lube. The worry is that some resins can react with petroleum based products.

I would not use copalsp and diff would not mix 2 diff types of lube.

As Peterpoddy said Linsead (in old days but still good) acts and lube then as a thread lock but easier to turn when needed than DT spoke lock.

Which is why I use a ceramic or wax type chain lube for threads and nipple/rim, acts as lube but drys hard in helps as thread lock.

Also it has very good “anti fling” propertys so stays put and not get flung all over the place like thinner lube and not get washed out like thin lube.

It is best to lube the nipple/rim hole area as it helps stop binding/twisting when building/truing the wheel (also reduces the number of time you need de tension the wheel)

I would NOT use carbon paste on carbon rims, carbon paste is designed to increase friction so not the thing you what in that area. as it make it hard to to do small turn/tension the spoke

Nothing wrong with two different lubes. They’re there to do two different job. One is to stop the nipple seizing to the spoke for the life of the wheel. The other is to allow the nipple to turn in th rim during the build process.

whippersnapper – Member
slight hijack, sorry, what do people use to grease the nipple rims if using carbon rims?

I used olive oil.