So, new frame turns out not to support grown-up chainrings in a 1×11 configuration due to clearance issues. I temporarily fixed the clearance with a spacer, but now 1st gear sounds a bit grindey. I now face a conundrum with three solutions:
1. carry on using the 36t chainring and accept a bit of noise in the two large sprockets (shifting works well but the chainline makes me want to cry).
2. Switch to what feels like a kids chainring (32t) and spin uncomfortably all day while riding slower than ever.
3. Switch to a double chainset, install a front shifter, change to 11-40 cassette, weep at the loss of 1×11 on the new bike.
4. not really an option, but in theory I could change the frame to a different one. I love it though so won’t do this.

What does the panel think?

1. carry on using the 36t chainring and accept a bit of noise in the two large sprockets (shifting works well but the chainline makes me want to cry).

Get over chain line.

Also how flat is where you live? How does 4t change get the chain line so much?
Also 2×11 just looks pointless in terms of range/weight penalties compared to 2×10

What’s the bike and what’s it used for?
32t chainring doesn’t seem that small for a typical 1×11 setup.

How does 4t change get the chain line so much?

He’s having to use a spacer to move the chainring further out as the larger ring will rub the stays on some frames

Yes

The chain line causes noticable grinding on the chainring – I can hear it while riding. This isn’t a looks issue, it’s a wear issue 🙂

4t less gives a smaller ring, which allows me to use the spacers as intended and therefore the ring sits closer to the BB and won’t rub.

It’s reasonably flat here but I also ride Wales a lot, I still find anything less than 36t at the front to be too spinney. The bike is 11 speed so 2×10 is irrelevant to me, and range is also irrelevant as I’m happy with 1×11. The drop to 11-40 would be entirely for supported setup with the mech, the current 11-46 doesn’t work with 2x and my mech.

How do the 10-42 ratios stack up with a 32,is 34 going to foul the frame?

I have a 34 on order so will find out today. I can accept a 34 I think if it means keeping 1×11. Shimano don’t do a 10t sprocket to my knowledge and I want to keep with their cassettes because they shift much more smoothly (IMHO).

I should add each of these options is ££££ so I’m keen to get it right rather than have a box full of shiny parts in the garage! The fixing bolts for the crankset alone are £100 to change 1x to 2x 🙁 each chainring I try is £60 too 😯

Shimano don’t do a 10t sprocket to my knowledge and I want to keep with their cassettes because they shift much more smoothly (IMHO).

Assume that means you haven’t ridden sram 11 then it’s smooth as butter.

I have ridden SRAM and hated it passionately. We all have our preferences 😆

Sram 11? You can even use shimano crap mechs with it

Yes, but SRAM/Shimano has been covered pretty comprehensively in other threads so let’s not get into it here. Preference is Shimano for all drive train components and especially shifters. The bike has a brand new XTR groupset with 20 miles on the clock so this won’t be changing significantly!

Just offering some options there. Simple answer is your cassette is too low hence you want bigger chain rings.
Also unless you have unique bcd 60 quid a chain ring is steep (if it’s XTR the I guess that is the idea)

Where do you ride that a 36T chainring is the preferred option? Also what wheel size?

I run with a 1×10 setup with 32T oval on a 29er. The 1×10 is the XT cassette with 40T extender style setup. Even though I rarely use the extender or the 11T cog I think I’d struggle with a 34T on the bike. I have to say I don’t notice much if any chain noise at the chainring unless it’s worn.

If you did go to a 2x setup, will your rear mech cope with the extra range? Probably will but worth thinking about.

Yes Mike, that’s XTR DCE chainrings (in the sale!). I do appreciate the out of box thinking so thanks for the post, I hadn’t even considered 10t at that point. The point of XTR isn’t just to be expensive, it’s also light, strong and pretty too. Pretty being the main one 8)

@Whitestone not sure what you’re saying there other than you prefer easier gears than I, and that you’ve not installed spacers to ruin your chainline? Going 2x would indeed require an 11-40 cassette to work.

@lustyd – I was asking what wheel size? 36T on a 29er is not the same as 36T on 650b.

I’ve one spacer on drive side.

The point of XTR isn’t just to be expensive, it’s also light, strong and pretty too. Pretty being the main one

Heavier and not as good as good as xx with silly standards 😉 they have been working with Apple.

other than you prefer easier gears than I,

On technical trails not braking and skills is more important than pedalling hard. If it’s fire roads get a cx bike 😉 most of the fast xc/enduro guys I know are still on 32/34 1x but most are on sram.

1X just makes no sense in the world.

For the increase of 400-500gr of weight you get much bigger spread of gears…. I’ve put both my bikes back to 2X recently with no regrets.

1X just makes no sense in the world.

For the increase of 400-500gr of weight you get much bigger spread of gears..

Makes sense for me.

I only just use the spread of gears that 1×10 gives me so 2×10 would simply be dead weight along with a front mech to ruin the good looks of my bike 😉

XTR di2 -> 22 speeds with a single shifter, best of both?

I was asking what wheel size? 36T on a 29er is not the same as 36T on 650b

Ah I’m with you! It’s a 650b+ so in between. This is why I think 34t might be acceptable to me with the larger wheels.

On technical trails not braking and skills is more important than pedalling hard

I don’t disagree, but I do all that so the only other way to get faster is pedaling. I like to put power down hard when coming out of features, and I like having the resistance in the pedals in various scenarios. I also spin like mad all over the trails when using smaller rings. Strava would tend to support my stance on this, as would world champ XC setups which feature bigger chainrings usually.

@Twisty Di2 would be awesome but even I’m not that spendy!!

OK, it’s very approximately 2T difference between the major wheel sizes, so 34T on a 650b is about the same as 32T on a 29er and 36T on a 26″. I felt that with the 650b+ wheelset I have that it’s about midway but does depend on rim width and tyres obviously.

Edit: most of my riding is long distance stuff so being slightly lower geared becomes an advantage after 12hrs or so.

yeah that’s the conclusion I came to, so I’m hoping the 34t fits and the problem goes away. The distributor seems to think it’s 32t max though. Not based on any evidence that I can see other than that’s what the whole bikes ship with.

Success(ish)! I put the 34t on and it clears the stay (by more than a couple of mm) with normal spacers. I still need to try moving the swingarm just in case but if anything it looks like there would be more clearance when compressed. Horrid chain noise and appearance are now gone and replaced with the normal DCE engagement noise.
Thanks all for your input, let’s hope my next thread isn’t “Chainring cut through my stay, what now?” 😆

Stick with 1×11 and smaller front ring

This has absolutely nothing to do with the fact that I am planning an imminent assault on your #1 STW forumite Swinley lap 😉 😆

lol I’m nowhere near the top of that list as it is!

I say yes, go 2×11.

Missus has just gone 1×11 – 32 up front and 11-46 up back. She’s now just so ridiculously slow.

She was never quick but the higher gears acted in her favour. Now I suspect on longer flatter days out (which happens, 10+ hours of gentle bikepacking miles) I’m going to go spare waiting for ger and our overall range is going to be reduced.

I’m looking for a second bike atm and 1x is not on the agenda.