Are they all the same, please? I need to replace mine and not sure if they differ ( for 10 speed XT).

Thanks in advance

Ideally you want to use 11 tooth jockey wheels although I have run 10 with no drama. I run the bbb ones on all 3 bikes and they are great. Cheaper than OEM and sealed bearings (no bearings are really sealed…. So good idea to whip open seal and pack with decent marine grease but not necessary – I just do it because I ride in terrible weather)
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-bdp-rollerboys-jockey-wheels/

I like my Hope ones, even if they are expensive.

Thanks doncorleoni – ordered!!

Shimano jockeys are bushed up to SLX/Zee and bearing there onward.

Most aftermarket jockeys over a tenner will be an upgrade…

11 tooth is what’s in there already, as stated.

No, they’re not all the same. Road bike I know, but I replaced my worn 105 5600 10s jockey wheels with Ultegra 10s jockey wheels

The Ultegra wheels are wider and wouldn’t turn when the jockey wheel axle bolts were tightened. I used a blob of threadlock on “loose” 105 bolts (or you could just buy Ultegra bolts 🙂 )

Thanks again. Nothing is “standard”, is it?!

XT ball raked jockey wheels are only £15 RRP so I’d imagine you could find them cheaper online. They last better than BBB and Tacx ones IME. Metal ones (eg KCNC) are rather pointless and certainly noisy.

Tacx ones have been okay for me.no obvious difference to the originals in my experience.

Do jockey wheels wear quicker these days? I can’t remember ever replacing them before the last 2 or 3 years

My jockey wheels on my zee dont seem to last long at all. Short cage on a 11-36 seems to eat them where the metal cap covering the bush meets the plastic.

Running them with/against the extra tension of a clutch mech will see them wearing out a lot quicker.

Coatesy +1 I’ve noticed the lower jockey wheel wearing a lot faster since I’ve gone to clutch mechs.

There is also a subtle but important difference between Shimano 9sp & 10sp jockey wheels that not many people are aware of…

Shimano quietly did away with the ‘float’ in the top jockey wheel as part of the transition to 10sp – and in fact if you want to be pedantic about it as it was this feature that gave rise to the term ‘jockey’ wheels, you should no longer refer to them as such and should call them ‘pulley’ wheels instead now 😉

This difference is one of the reasons 10sp shifting has a more positive ‘click-clunk’ shift, but also makes it more sensitive to initial set-up and getting the indexing just right, as there’s no float anymore to compensate for a little mis-alignment.

I bought some fancy anodised ones with bearings but to be honest they lasted no longer than the cheap BBB bushed jockeys.

I rate the Hope metal ones – expensive but last much longer in the gritty grinding paste we have round our way.

I do wonder though if that is at the expense of faster chain wear.

PeterPoddy – Member

Metal ones (eg KCNC) are rather pointless and certainly noisy.

I’ve got a set of KCNC ones – haven’t noticed them being any noisier than the XTR ones they replaced.
And they’re bright red, so far from pointless. Erm, well they were until the anodising wore off, which was after about 1 ride. Probably wouldn’t bother again, but fancied a bit of ‘pimp my jock wheel’ action.