I think that tool is just a bit of metal pipe with one end covered in nylon to protect the hub. You just rest the wheel on it so could be substituted with a bit of pipe.
When I did this I found out that the freehub bearings didn’t have a special tool and hope told me to just use a socket. At that point I figured I should have saved the money on the rest of the stuff and just used sockets for all of it.
I’m surprised they don’t sell a complete kit for the Evo, as the two parts on the right of the first link are redundant with the Evo hubs, which have a larger internal diameter, to allow a single axle which is then used with various adapters to allow 9mm, 10mm, 12mm without having to change axles.
The nylon wheel support bush is useful, bot not absolutely essential. I managed for a while using a couple of blocks of wood to support the flanges whilst tapping the new bearings in, but it certainly makes it easier to have something exactly support that surface.
You only need the special tools for the rear, and pro2 and pro2 evo aren’t the same.
You can use sockets on the front, and the free hub, but not the main rear hub bearings (well you can, but it’s easy to knacker the bearings!) –
The bearings press fit into the hub shell, and onto the axle at the same time. So if you use a socket, you’re only driving in the outer race, and relying on the bearings to drive the inner race over the axle. This can easily damage the bearing – I know from experience.
You need the two on the right for the rear –
They slide over the axle and the flat end pushes in the outer and inner race of the bearing together.
Posted 8 years ago
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