So almost finished my Flux Build and turned my attention to the seatpost.

Slight issue with seatpost though but not sure.

At the height that the seatpost fits me (seatpost up) the seatpost seems to “stop” on something inside the frame. Its not the bottom of the seattube as its not that long. I looked inside the seat tube and there appears to be something protruding from the weld which attaches the shock to the frame. See pics (the 2 shiny bits after the 2 holes)

I want to be able to lower the seatpost when required, but this obstruction is preventing this. I was going to cut the seatpost down to save some weight, but didnt want to cut too much off and also wanted to make sure I had the seatpost going below the bottom of the downtube weld.

Wasnt sure if it was normal so emailed turner. Any ideas? Seatpost is currently 410mm length and the sticky out bits appear to be around the weld that holds the pivot/shock. Should the seattube be smooth all the way to the bottom?

No it’s not normal, if it’s new send it back, it’s not been reamed out properly.

It’ll be where the weld has blown through…you either want the seat tube reamed or the frame changed.

aww bugger, the bike is built now. Dont really want to send it back. not an option.

is it something a LBS could do? Should I be expecting Turner or chain reaction to pay for this?

Dont really want to send it back. not an option

if LBS do it I’d make sure any warranty through CRC isn;t compromised.

Your contract is with crc if that’s where it’s from, you could get it reamed at a decent lbs, ask if crc will pay for it, if not send it back..

I dont want to send it back its fully built, and CRC dont have any more in stock. I have written to both Turner and CRC to see what they say. Meantime I am going to cut off 20mm of my seatpost so that its not sitting on the welds. and hope I dont need to put my seat down.

Very dissapponted with turner quality control here and hope CRC or Turner do the right thing.

Is reaming a seatpost something a “normal” bikeshop can do, or is it quite a specialist job?

most ‘decent’ bike shops could do it – tool is £200-£300

I don’t know how normal weld breakign through the seat tube and requiring reaming out is though – it’s what would worry me.

I dont want to send it back its fully built, and CRC dont have any more in stock. I have written to both Turner and CRC to see what they say

I’m pretty sure they’ll tell you to send it back… 😉

least the welds fully penetrated….. 😉 (if not a little over :s )

how much is it sticking out by because i cant see it in your photos.

i will try and take better photos later. quite difficylt to get the light right to show the welds. so is the fact the welds are through an issue?

I’m pretty sure they’ll tell you to send it back…

So will they pay for the headset to be removed from the frame? because I certainly wont. what about my wasted time/resources building it?

Anyway no point in speculating until i get a response from turner or CRC.

ive also got a feeling my LBs wont be able to do the work either so not sure what the options will be. Only Turner dealer in Scotland is at laggan, probably have to send the frame up there no doubt.

So will they pay for the headset to be removed from the frame? because I certainly wont. what about my wasted time/resources building it?

I suspect consequential losses will be excluded if they decide to send you a new frame.

Peril of mail order really. An LBS would probably have sorted it out and transferred parts for you. Paid your money and took your choice…

normally the warranty is at your cost unless you bought it from a bike shop when i’d expect them to take it apart for you.

they won’t pay to have it taken i apart i’d imagine.

id rather have slight overpenetration than under but ideally id have neither…….

id just make turner aware of the situation and then have it reamed at a shop – or take it as a good reason tobuy a reverb 😀

The Turner frames are butted, (as discussed by Dave Turner himself).
There is a maximum insertion depth on them, check it out on the MTBR forums, as well as the weld causing a problem.
Gave up with a 30.9 post on my 2009 5spot, went to the below solution.
I run a 27.2/420 Thomson on my 2011 5spot with a 27.2/30.9 shim, now I get full insertion. (excuse the pun!)

My LBS has these.. round cutty things that you use to ream the seat tube out. Brilliant for getting corrosion out, and I imagine you could use one too 🙂

The problem I could see with reaming is that the tool is designed for removing very little material from the inside of a tube. Although it looks like a drill, it’s not designed for drilling and has such doesn’t have a tip like one.

Depends what the obstruction is. If it’s just a burr or something then fine. If the tube is unersized you need something else.

Hmmm, I had this on my 2005 5 Spot, called Turner direct (it was a reduced price trade in job for my 97 XCE), DT himself answered the phone, he was very apologetic, asked if I was happy for my LBS to do it and to send him the bill for a refund. Got an engineer mate to do it in the end.

Got a 2011 DW spot from Merlin a couple of months ago. Seatpost went in ok but when I went to remove it a few weeks later it was snagged and the Thomson post got badly scored in a zigzag stylee on the way out. This time I wrapped a broom handle with some wet and dry and sorted it out myself (I like to get ghetto with my bling, ok?).

My mate has just bought a 2012 spot and his came with a QA checklist with initials against each task, these included seat post reaming and check of BB threads (another common problem with beads from the blasting stuck in there apparently). I love Turners and I love the customer support but bit of a shame it’s taken them the best part of 20 years to sort out basics like this…..

The problem I could see with reaming is that the tool is designed for removing very little material from the inside of a tube. Although it looks like a drill, it’s not designed for drilling and has such doesn’t have a tip like one.

? Are you seeing something different in the pic? Its excess material (likely from the weld) on the inside wall of the tube, exactly what a reamer is designed to remove, not a large mass blocking the whole tube which needs drilling through?

My mate has just bought a 2012 spot and his came with a QA checklist with initials against each task,

got this on mine too, will have to check if seatpost reaming was checked. pretty sure they all were.

Is your flux a 2011? I got the frame in a box with a FOX manual, sweet FA else. When I bought my XCE in 97 I got a pamphlet congratulating me on being a super genius for having the sense to buy a Turner, it also hinted I was probably massively well endowed and popular too. I liked that, it made me feel special……

It’s normal I’m afraid. It’s to do with the internal butting of the seat tube and is wider there to cope with the stress of the pivot near that point. Has been discussed on the Turner forum loads. The answer? Tough, buy adropper post (that is Dave Turner’s answer is basically).

? Are you seeing something different in the pic? Its excess material (likely from the weld) on the inside wall of the tube, exactly what a reamer is designed to remove, not a large mass blocking the whole tube which needs drilling through?

If the weld sticks out a few mm, a reamer might not remove it. They are designed for ‘reaming’ a hole to a tight tolerance. When it comes to bikes, they’re used for removing corrosion or making a seat tube the correct size if it’s a little tight…removing tenths of a millimetre, not chunks of weld.

I’ll say again, nowt to do with welds IT’S THE BUTTING OF THE SEAT TUBE

be good if the OP id it get it reamed out and removed all the extra material used for the butting as well as that bit of weld 😉

Cut a groove down the back of the seat post,then you can align your saddle quicker 😉

Sounds like two different things, known issue caused by the design of the seat tube butting is one, seatpost getting caught on protruding weld and scored to **** is another

http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/seat-post-insertion-depth-your-dw-bike-683553.html

Behold,the adjustable reamer 🙂

My 2011 trashed the 30.9 Thomson as well, lovely tram lines engraved on it!
Think I may have a go at the brush/wet n dry method.
Has anyone mentioned butted tubing?
Think I posted on the MTBR forum above and got replied to by DT himself.