… but it’s tight, any point in hacksawing a slot in it and using something like a screwdriver but with more torque to taking it off?

Nice sharp, small chisel and a good tap at an angle should see you right.

Mind the disc though, but it will be harder than the bolt.

What sometimes works is a hex bit. Size it to just fit ignoring the torx splines and hammer it in (supporting the hub appropriately!). The splines squish out the way and hopefully you can get some torque on it. If all else fails there’s always drilling it out. Good luck.

I use the hacksaw method. I put 2 thin bits of ali sheet on the disc surface to make sure you dont cut that and then I use a screwdrive with mole grips clamped on them so you can push down lots with one hand and turn them with the other.

ah the mole grips sound like a good plan.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pricing/INC/cid/GUQIWRMXB2NPB0UUC1XOCFE5Z2PCS7AP/product-Axminster-Screw-Extractor-Set-23106.htm

Don’t bodge it, you’ll just end up hurting your bike, yourself and your tools…..

I’ve done this a couple of times and had 100% success with just mole grips (the bodgers tool of choice).

My sole experience with a rounded rotor bolt was sorted just using pliers to unscrew the stub after I’d drilled the head off. I think the heat and vibration loosened her off 😉

careful with those screw exctractors (if you’re as stupid as me!) – i nearly broke my wrist using those in my cordless drill, when it “bit”, the screw stayed still and the drill didn’t 😆

If you go for the “cutting a slot with a hacksaw” route, try borrowing an Impact Driver (set in undo). This has worked on many similar long bolts seized into alloy motorbike casings over the years.

I just normally take the head off with an angle grinder, remove the disc then get the shank of the bolt out with a pair of mile grips, it also sometimes helps to heat the area before trying to remove thee bolts with some hot water as they are loctited in and can therefore be a bit sticky to get moving.

just bear in mind that screw extractors have a fatal flaw – they’re brittle – and should one snap off, VERY hard to remove 🙁

Usually cut a slot in it with angle grinder, dont cut the disc, and I have a big screwdriver to slacken it.

Tracey

Have had 100% success myself using a torque bit- hammered into the bolt then undone. worked with allen bolts and torque.
got to be easier than tryng to saw a bolt head.

Yup, just drop a slot in it with a saw and by that time the heat and movement will likely have helped loosen it anyway.

DezB – that’d be Torx you’re talking about? The spikey 6 pointed star drive…I managed that once too, but not on an overly stiff bolt.

Grind the head off of it.

Yes, sorry, Torx. A size bigger than the bolt – they’re tapered so quite easy to hammer in and get a good purchase when you undo.

what about inner chainring bolts – same plan?

You might want to get a blow torch onto the bit of the hub where the stiff bolt goes in – it will heat up the alloy of the hub (hopefully) more than the bolt, so the hole should expant, making it easier to remove the bolt with either a flat bladed screwdriver or mole grips.

Worked for me when a bolt had become ceased, and nothing (and I mean nothing) else would shift it.