• This topic has 13 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 8 years ago by kcal.
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  • Road Fixed/SS – why the big front chainring?
  • Gotama
    Free Member

    Just looking at switching my arkose over to SS for commuting purposes and bumbling around with sprocket/chainring sizes. Why do people generally go for a larger front chainring? I have a 38 tooth on the front so was looking at 14 rear rather having to get both sprocket and chainring for the time being. This gives me near enough the same gear inches as 47/17 (used as example ratio as it was in my head from Patrick Seabase’s instagram) with pretty much the same speed at 90rpm according to bikecalc.com.

    Is it purely aesthetic or is there some other benefit?

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    less noisy and less wear on the teeth.

    14 tooth cogs never used to last me any length of time.

    bigblackshed
    Full Member

    Better chain wrap with bigger sprockets = less wear.

    Gotama
    Free Member

    Ok, thanks guys, makes sense.

    alexpalacefan
    Full Member

    The above is all true.

    But the real reason? Looks like you’re pushing a big, manly gear!

    APF

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Track bike ancestry? Most track bikes have chainrings between 44 and 53t, so converting one for the road it’s easier to find 17/18/19/20t sprockets for the back than it is to find a smaller chainring.

    Then when fixies/fakengers took off a mix of availability and aesthetics kept things like that. Unlike say MTB where ground clearance gives an impetus to run 32-something rather than 38- or 44 something, or at the extreme ‘microdrive’ on BMX and trials bikes using 22t front chainrings and tiny 9t cassette drivers.

    I doubt 38-14 would wear out unreasonably quickly if you used 1/8th components, but without other conflicting requirements, whyy make it worse than necessary.

    jonba
    Free Member

    Better chain wrap also means less likely to drop a chain.

    Worth remembering that front sprockets are pricey, rear ones are cheap. So go for something around 18 at the back and match the front to start. Then you can easily tune gears going up to a 20 or down to a 16.

    47:17 would be a good ratio in that the same chain links wouldn’t repeatedly hit the same teeth as they would with 48:16. Probably marginal benefits if any. Might be more of a fixie thing where you need different “skid” spots on tyres.

    Gotama
    Free Member

    47:17 would be a good ratio in that the same chain links wouldn’t repeatedly hit the same teeth as they would with 48:16. Probably marginal benefits if any. Might be more of a fixie thing where you need different “skid” spots on tyres.

    Huh, and I thought it was just a ratio he’d settled on for his alps type riding, never thought they’d be any science in it. Interesting.

    Andy-R
    Full Member

    Bigger chainring/sprockets = lower chain tension for a given power output.

    DrP
    Full Member

    And what’s it with the BMX Kidzz and their 11 t sprockets??
    That’s only about 6 or 7 full teeth holding the chain at once…
    Anyone sheared a tooth like this?

    DrP

    TiRed
    Full Member

    And what’s it with the BMX Kidzz and their 11 t sprockets?

    BMX uses very small chainrings for bottom bracket clearance. Hence the small sprockets. Chain is usually at high tension. Not seen my son break a tooth.

    Mister-P
    Free Member

    Shimano freewheels don’t come in a 14T, only 16, 17 and 18. So that limits what I can run on the front.

    ghostlymachine
    Free Member

    And with large ring/large sprocket it’s easier to do small ratio changes.

    kcal
    Full Member

    Although need to watch clearance at front, I think a 42t chain ring was the most I could easily fit on my old MTB frame without things getting mangled. 15t I think cog at rear.

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