Fit isn't really about "getting used to it". The most common problem I see is bars too far away, and too low. Our CAAD8 has a long steerer tube and the bars are "slammed". The saddle to top of bar drop is the same 8cm as all my bikes. This drop is entirely personal. You could start with this and go up or down as you get used to the position. I've gone down to 10cm but always seem to come back to 8cm. In days of old, bars were much higher and the drop smaller. But the curve on the handlebars much deeper so riders would not ride on the hoods as much. Modern bikes have shorter headtubes and pros ride on the hoods more. We mortals put the bars back up by flipping the stem (ugly) or spacers (less ugly) or buying a "comfort" geometry bike like the Synapse. Modern drop bars have less of a drop to "compensate" for the lower handlebars. This can mean that there is not enough clearance when sprinting out of the saddle on the drops.
There is no magic. Find the saddle height and fore aft that suits you first. Then set the bar reach (stem length) and height. To set reach. Lean forward on the hoods and the angle at the elbow should be 90-100 degrees. I'll bet your angle is bigger. The usual symptom is a pain in the neck after a couple of hours in the saddle due to hunching of the shoulders.
For climbing some might suggest being further back is helpful. Out of the saddle, it really won't matter. In the saddle, I've not founf much difference, but of the three bikes, the nice ultralightweight carbon Defy always climbs the fastest regardless of geometry.
Just get the basic three contact point triangle right and set any bike accordingly.
Saddle top to BB is 74cm
Tip of Arione saddle is 5cm behind BB
Drop from saddle to top of bars 8cm
Tip of saddle to bars is 54.5cm
All my bikes are the same. Including my SS mtb, although the bars are higher.