Must be a few climbers on here.

I've recently started bouldering and climbing (and as I've today I'm allowed to belay 😀 ). Already the cost of hiring shoes every time I go is adding up so I want to buy some.

There's a few for sale where I climb, the cheapest of which are £60.

I know nothing about climbing shoes so, what do I want to look out for? any brands that are good in particular? how much to I really need to spend? and where should I get them from? (looking for value and the ability to try them on 😛 )

Just go to your local climbing shop.

Get to know them…they'll come in handy if you stick with the sport.

Set budget.

Buy shoes.

(or go away and buy them a few quid cheaper from GoOutdoors…but run the risk of meeting them in the climbing centre 🙂 )

Just go and try a few pairs on and get the ones that are most comfortable. Some people tell you the shoes need to be super-tight – they don't, just a snug fit.

Everyone's feet are different shapes, expect to try on 3 or 4 pairs.

go for a slipper type that pops on and off easily, that way when you are on belay you can slip your feet out. get a basic pair to start with and wear them out before you get some more technical shoes

'anasai five tens'- but they cripple your feet for ages….
i had 'boreal' spider shoes… quite sticky rubber then some french make forgot the name of them now…. but yeah and climbing shoes take ages for your feet to adjust to…. for a few months they will feel very tight !
alot of people tend to buy a size smaller than their usual size..i never figured that out really ? tight as hell..but yeah try a few pairs on cos all shoes/peoples feet are different (its nothing like buying a pair of trainers either…climbing shoes are totally different . good luck with your climbing /bouldering…i climbed/bouldered alot around 2-3 years ago….ive now stopped and the mountain biking has taken over… lol

Decathlon do a few Quechua models for quite a bit less than that if budget is tight. Mine do me fine.

I agree with the other comments – you've got to try them first, as what fits someone else like a glove could be foot-hell for you. I swear by female-specific shoes, but again, it depends on your feet. I've had great success with 5.10s and also latterly La Sportiva. Don't make the mistake of going for something too technical too early, but do go with what fits best (and this may well end up being a more technical shoe). Use a shop with a mini wall where you can try out the shoes properly … the shop at North Face in Warrington let me try a few wall climbs before deciding (but this was a few years ago).

Also, think about what sort of climbing you will do – I use 5.10 Sapphires for short climbs, but they are too sensitive for long climbs and you feel every knobble in the rock. I use Sportiva Rock Jocks for long outings and they are more like trainers with a climbing compound and "climbing toe".

Above all, don't go too much on other people's recommendations, unless it's an identical twin, as only you will know which one is the best fit. There are lots of good makes out there … 5.10, La Sportiva, Red Chilli, Boreal, to name but a few!

Good luck and enjoy!

I've got on ok with Quechua shoes from Decathlon as well. Having had high end technical shoes in the past i was pleasantly surprised with their performance. Would recommend lace ups though as its easy to loosen the laces when belaying to easy any discomfort.

EB's… 8)
(do they still make them?)

Used to get Scarpa boots buckshee, but having got the toe shape perfect with the Dominator in 1995, they mucked about with the design and have not been as good since. Boreal did something similar with the Laser(1990).
Hard to look further than the 5.10 Anastazi family since the rubber lasts forever, have good toe shape and have the right combo of support and sensitivity.,though I'm still wearing the pink ones without the silly side ways curve nonsense.
Starting out you should get some 5.10s less finely tuned the Anastazi though though.

Yup, Decathlon. I've had some stupidly pricey techno doodad ones in the past and the Decathlon ones are really good value for money. Just make sure they are a comfy fit without being too tight and you'll be fine unless you are doing really seriously arsey technical stuff.

most people wear these… they do cripple your feet tho for some time..
http://www.tiso.com/shop/five-ten/anasazi_vcs_rock_shoe/?source=webgains&siteid=20369

i have these : they are an excellent shoe

http://www.climbers-shop.com/256183/products/La_Sportiva_Katana_Rock_Shoes.aspx?utm_source=Froogle&utm_medium=PriceComp&utm_term=Froogle&utm_content=None&utm_campaign=PriceComp1

I would recommend trying a few on in the shop and going for the comfiest (although none are that comfy). I'd also look for ones with stiffer soles, the really bendy, smearing ones are great but you need pretty string feet to wear them for long. The stiffer, edging ones are probably better if you are just starting.

Got some last season Scarpa Thunder for bout £40. Good all round shoe for a beginer. I don't advise buying aggressive shoes, they aren't usually that comfortable and if your just starting out it's unlikley you'll be using them to their full capacity. (plus they are usually more expensive if your on a budget).

5.10's are the best IM(NSV)HO.

However your first rock shoes will be wrong whatever pair you buy. They will probably be at least 1/2 a size too big for starters. Its only after wearing rockshoes for about 6 months and you find out the give and your feet get used to getting squished that you can actually get it more or less right.

As above Anazasi's are pretty much the shoe of choice. But they are not very supportive for starting out. Plus they aint cheap! The Verdes (yup the green ones) are the least aggressive heel wise (if you absolutely must) though and hence cripple your feet the least…

Something like Red Chilli Spirits are a good start. Reasonably technical but also wearable. Not too expensive either. But yeah try on some pairs see what suits your feet and don't worry too much about as as I said earlier you'll more than likely get it wrong and 'need' to get a better pair further down the line.

Good luck, and most of all, enjoy your climbing.

5.10 stealth rubber is (imho) the best. Anasazi's are pretty technical and I never coped with multi-pitch climbs too well in them, too sore.

My 5.10s were laced and so I could adapt them a bit if needed, to give some space. Never had any problem of foot slippage within them either, even on a 4 hour epic in blazing sun on Bosigran 😕

Agree with those above posts saying find a good outdoor shop or specialist climbing shop and try lots on. Go mid week, so they have time to spend with you, they need to fit snug all round, but walk around the shop in them for a good length of time and see how painful it gets. If the pain is bearable and just uncomfortable, then they are probably correct. Personally, I've always got on with Scarpa and prefer lace ups for the small adjustments, and like said above, you can just release the laces for some relief when belaying (I've had slipper types and didn't like them for the lack of adjustment).

Never buy on a recommendation always go and try them on. I personally prefer 5:10's but I only really like one pair as other designs don't suit my feet.

I went into a Go Outdoor's and tried around 10 pairs before buying my last pair. They leave all the stock they have on the shelf so you can be left in peace to find whatever works best for you.

Anasazis here too, bouldering and single pitch sport routes so don't need to be in them for hours at a time. Got some Boreal Jokers for using at the indoor wall, unless it's a short pre work session.

Buy on fit, not brand. Try lots on, in different sizes too. You want as close a fit as possible with no 'hot spots'. Bear in mind that if they are leather they will stretch a bit, synthetic will not. Your first pair will probably not last that long, you'll wear out the rubber on the toes scraping your feet down the wall/rock until you learn more precise foot placement.

As others have said, you must try some on. Someone said three or four pairs; last time I bought mine I must've tried on about 20. Don't wear socks.

They should be snug without sharp pressure points. A good climbing shop will have a small (like foot-high) 'wall' you can test them on. For a beginner, ignore any advice that says they have to be painful – they don't, and will just put you off climbing.

slip-lasted (softer soles) shoes will stretch a little, board-lasted (firmer) shoes will not. I wish I'd known that when I bought my 5-10 Anasazi's.

Ignore numbers when it comes to sizes, manufacturers vary. Expect to be wearing shoes somewhere between your regular shoe size and two sizes under, inclusive.

Considr buying a belay device and screwgate whilst you're at it. There are bundle deals to be had. Also, chalk bag and chalk. Chalk balls are preferred by climbing centres (less dust), I don't use them personally as I'm a horrible sweaty git and can't get enough chalk out of them. You should be able to get that lot plus shoes for under £100. Haggle. (-:

Where are you climbing? Heck, where's everyone climbing? I've not been for a couple of years after climbing four times a week at one point, and I miss it.

Thanks guys!
I am planning on try before I buy, its just a matter of finding a shop near me – the climbing centre I climb is only little so they've only got a few shoes to chose from. Anyone know of a good shop in the Northampton area?

Its interesting about the sizing, the first time I went I hired shoes the same size as I normally take and ever since I've got the size above because after half an hour with them on I had to take them off every time I came down because they were hurting my toes! Although I did have socks on…

If I can find a shop I might well invest in belay device and stuff as well, that's another thing you have to pay to hire to I'll class it as an investment…

Lots of brands and what not to look at …I'll get researching.

And I climb at the (recently newly opened) pinnacle centre in Northampton 🙂

dont wear socks 😉

Socks do mark you out as a punter. 😉

I climb at Purbrook indoor wall in Pompy, and Portland for decent sport climbing and some good bouldering in most weather. Odd trip to Snowdonia when I have the time/funds too.

Try Mammut Gym Shoes if you can, I found them really good as a beginner 'cos they have about twice as much rubber as a lot of other shoes, and thus stand up to dodgy technique better.

Kamet's Joshua Trees seemed OK for a starter…

Go outdoors and Decathlon have some good deals.

Most important thing is comfort….trust me I have had all the super technical shoes and mullered my feet, try on until you find some that feel good,,dont worry about them not being top end or anything as non of that really makes much difference until you are bloody good. the best climber I know wears cheap shoes and outclimbs everyone we meet. I tend to get a set I can spend all day at the crag without taking them off and if you do go outside then wearing socks might be a distinct possablility….remeber how cold last winter was?? so dont go one size down like some recommend.

I did have socks on…

For hire shoes, that's adviseable for what should be fairly obvious reasons. (-:

Lots of brands and what not to look at

One thing that might not be obvious is, you cannot buy bad (ie, unsafe) climbing gear. You pay extra for features, a £30 harness will be just as safe as a £90 harness, but it might smart a bit when you fall on it.

Thanks for the advice guys…
I went for these http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/66-spire
they were comfy, worked well on testing and I think they look quite good too 😛
Thanks for the tip about the no socks…much better! 😛

Just need to work on my technique / strength now (did a bouldering competition last night and almost certainly came last!)

Good choice. 5-10 rock. My Anasazis hurt cos I got the wrong size, but they stick like a catholic priest to a small boy.

Just checked the 5 10 site they do shoes in my size ,14! at the moment I am squeezed into size 12 Boreal aces and they are bloody tight even for climbing shoes.I feel a purchase coming on

I was reccomended to get some Scarpa Force shoes, as they have a slightly harder compound rubber,
if your a beginner, you are more likely to be skating around on the rock, and could wear out your super tacky shoes quite quick, more so on a sandpaper indoor climbing wall.