After rolling both the front and rear tyres off today i think I’m going to need some new tyres.

I’m on non tubeless 26″ rims and looking for 2.3 to 2.4″ width

What’s good?

For reference tyres I rolled were a 2.4 advantage and check a geax 2.3 gator both of which has joined and held air for a week but didn’t like lakes rocky descents

What rims ?

Wth speed discs – supposedly labelled “all-mountain”

I’d go for a slightly smaller tyre,see here review

The pressure makes a difference too,too low and they’re more likely to roll off IME.

Pressures were 30ish psi, if i need to go narrower it might be new wheels time… 🙄

If it’s for rocky stuff you don’t really want to go narrower, maybe go for something with a beefier sidewall. I’ve always liked Minions and High Rollers but lately am a fan of Hans Dampf.

Cheers any experience of running them tubeless on non tubeless rims?

You don’t need tubeless rims (or tyres) to tubeless your tyres. There’s lots of youtube videos on how to perform a ghetto tubeless setup. This is how many of us where doing tubeless back in the day.
Pressures wise, normally I would run around 26psi but for lakes I’d run around 35psi. I’ve never rolled a tyre.

^^^^ or just buy a Stans kit

Looking at my rims I have a 21mm internal width which isn’t ideal for 2.4″ tyres apparently.

It was on a ghetto setup which had seated and held air for a week and a 3 mile test ride before I had issues.

I’m thinking wider rims would have prevented the rolling off of the tyre.

I’ve been running with tubes at 35psi so was hoping to go a little lower.

my old 26″ tubeless wheels run a muddy mary up front and a hans danpf at the rear. the hans dampf is a non tubeless tyre and ive never had any issues with it.
ive hammered these wheels everywhere and the set up has been fine…theyve even taken on rim dinger at bpw and were fine
the rims are non tubeless which i converted using the stans kit
theyve not been used for over 12 months but still have plenty of air in them

So Gonzy assuming your tyres and rims are a suitable match width wise what could I be doing wrong if my pressures were at 30psi….

(I’m what i would call an enthusiastic but not fast descender and sloth like climber)

smokey – my wheels were blagged off a mate who didnt want them anymore…they had what he assumed were dt swiss rims but the previous owner had taken the decals off so we had no way of knowing other than his original advert which said they were dt swiss
i cant remember off hand what the internal width of the rim is but i think the stans kit i bought had the 24mm wide rim tape
i have another set which i’ve unsuccessfully tried to convert to tubeless using proper rim strips, gorilla tape and even a 20″ inner tube
my guess is that gorilla tape may be a bit too porous and that more than one layer is needed.
i would suggest starting over again and use 2 layers of tape and make sure the tape has been stretched as taut as possible as its applied to the rim…a 24mm tape should also provide better coverage and a better seal on a 21mm rim
with regards to tyre choice the maxxis advantage in its 2.4″ size would make for a very round tyre profile on a 21mm rim as would the geax but to a slightly lesser extent. not all 2.35 tyres give you the same profile on the same rim…some will have a taller sidewall but a narrower tread footprint which makes them more suitable to narrower rims while others have a shorter sidewall but wider tread area so that they are rounder in profile
i would probably go with a tyre with a stiffer sidewall on a narrower rim to reduce the amount of flex

running spesh purgatory and on-one chunky monkey on mavic 719. about 25psi front, 30psi rear ( hardtail ), ghetto tubeless, typically loam over flint, hardpack, sometimes loose rock.

Rims have been wrapped in 3 layers of tape, 1 central, one to the left of centre and 1 to the right of centre so whole bed covered but not interfering with the bead hook (applied to squeaky clean rim bed and pulled tight as a -insert own similie here-) I wasn’t losing air through the rim or tyre so I’m going with narrow rim bed combined with flexible sidewalls has caused the issue. It didn’t so much burp as completly roll off the rim when going round a bend on the rear one. The front one simply kept burping air out very few miles.

The tyres had seated on the rims with a nice loud ping too…

I don’t want to go narrower on the tyres so I think I’m going to look for some new wheels before splashing out on more tyres.

ah. didn’t realise which method you’d used. i use the split inner tube method. the tube sticks to the tyre bead, so even if it does roll a little, you’re much less likely to burp.

Flexy sidewalks and not enough pressure.

Going tubeless isn’t about running a random lower pressure. You have found what is too low for your riding style, tyre choice, and terrain.

Putting more air in will be a lot less faff and expense than throwing money at a “problem” that doesn’t exist.

Cheers guys, all good input, i keep reading about 25psi pressure that everyone runs on tubeless so i guess the tyres were to flexy for what i was aiming for.

my front ( actually a spesh butcher, not purgatory ) was getting low a little while ago cos i let the sealant dry out. it never stopped getting wet on the sidewalls. it was so low that going in to corners i could feel it roll around quite badly, in a sudden whooooop sort of way :D. never burped though, because the tube was glued to the tyre bead with sealant. think it was getting down to about 15psi!

I’ve successfully used Specialized Butcher and The Captain, HRII , Icon and Ardent Race (all tubeless or tubeless ready versions) on non-tubeless rims. Also Geax Sturdy (non-tubeless but works fine).

Butcher grids and slaughters in NZ burped soo many times I stopped counting. Luckily only a couple of times did it need a top up mid ride and once the front tyre came unseated enough it was otb for me.

Great tyres though just a shame they leak so much in the sidewalls. the DH versions don’t have that issue.. and weirdly the even lighter butcher tyre didnt leak on my mates bike all 6 weeks with the same sealant.

Running anything under about 28-30psi on the back unless it was soft and loose was a complete nono though. Front got away with around 25-26psi all holiday

That was on stans flows mk2

Also the pressure you use is also dependant on your weight. If you are supper light weight you can get away with lower tyre pressures.

Still the right side of 13 stone so although not a racing snake I don’t think my weight was a problem.

Measured the rim bed today and it’s only 20mm so I think we have the culprit.

Anyway some new (to me) wheels have arrived with wider rims so all should be good going forward.