The time has come to sort an annoying problem with my road bike. The rear shifter has a tight bend into the frame and no matter what outer I use it – and length, it corrupts the steering.
At the moment I’m using ilinks, previously gore, dura ace and some other jag wire stuff.

What’s bendy / super bendy?

Anyone using QUAXAR ULTRALIGHT ?

brake outer worth a try, if only on the bendy bit?

I’m using Qaxar on the MTB. It’s very good – it is perhaps marginally more flexible than normal stuff as it’s plastic lined. Not something I’ve really focused on, but worth a punt I’d say.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/jagwire-road-elite-link-gear-kit/

This stuff, although I was going to suggest jagwire as that is bendy but you’ve tried that.

Otherwise Di2, those electrica cables are great 😉

Thanks but pretty much the same as my current ilinks.
Considered electronic but want the prices of sram etap to drop before I jump on.
No interest in shitmano electronic.

Shitmano? How droll. SRAM have such a wonderful record with new technology, makes total sense you’d write off Di2, which is famed for always going wrong 😕

I’m sure it works perfectly well long term, I’m just not interested in swapping a bunch of cables for a bunch of wires. When I used di2 it shifted well but wireless is imho a better solution. ( not ridden it yet but keen to do so )
Anyhow- back to bendy gear outer ..,,,,

SRAM still can’t make a decent front mech that works properly. I’d go Shimano for road bikes every time (or Campy). And this is coming from a die hard SRAM MTB user. Also less to go wrong with wires over wireless and its proven to be reliable

The housing that came with my Thomson dropper is way more flexible than the Shimano SP41 stuff.

Any marks on the Thompson stuff ? Do you know the brand used.

Don’t remember seeing any marking on it. May have some spare as I don’t have my Thomson now..how much do you need?

The problem is that gear cable is inherently non-flexy. You could use brake outer, but the shifting will likely be crap.

Nokon is probably your best bet, definitely more flexible than I-Links, more faff though.

I use one of these to turn a tight bend, but Rose bikes don’t appear to have them any more.

I think the question is why is the OP having a problem, what bike is it? Presumably others out there either suffering in silence or found a way to resolve it.

How is the cable routed?

If it’s under the BB rather than internally then crossing the outer in front of the headtube and then letting the inners cross under the downtube gives much nicer routing as long as the cable stops are closer to under the downtube than the side.

Nokon outers?

Similar idea to the iLink ones but you can get a tighter radius with them as they have the little balls between each section. Also, the kit I got (admittedly quite a few years back) had some shorter sections to give you an even tighter radius.