Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 52 total)
  • Real world experiences of using 1×10 in hilly areas
  • qwerty
    Free Member

    I like the idea of 1×10, but for me it’d be an 11-36 cassette (not willing to invest in a 40/42t setup) on a 650b, probably a 34t chainring.
    For the majority of my riding I reckon it would work, but, I do have some very steep route options on my doorstep that I don’t currently explore as singlespeed.
    I was wondering, those of you in places like the Lakes etc, do you cope with 1×10 without expander rings or are you double/triple? If I go double, it will be 24/36t with a 11/32 cassette.
    I realise it’s a very personal choice, linked to legs ability etc, but willing to take on board some input to help me decide.

    Ta

    bruneep
    Full Member

    Depends on how strong you are

    I run 30t with 11-42 for the mountains of Aberdeen and surrounding areas, I still occasionally have to get off and push. (No shame in this) But I am the wrong side of 21 tho.

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    I ride 1×10, live in a reasonably hilly area – our nightrides generally have about 1000ft of climbing, and manage ok on a 32 front ring. If I lived in the lakes or the highlands, I’d go 2×10, as I wouldn’t have the legs or the motivation for one by.

    Going to Spain with ciclo Montana in April, and I’ll be going with a double for that.

    toofarwest
    Full Member

    After doing a full ride in the middle ring on Christmas day (20 miles – local trail centre) I’m going 1×10 on the winter hardtail today.
    11-36 cassette and a 32 tooth NW ring.
    Current set up is 11-32 and 22,32,44 on the HT (11-36 on the other bike) so I’ll be interested to see other peoples replies. Always have the expander option if needed though.

    trout
    Free Member

    I went 1 x 10 on a Fatty to bavaria but cheated and fitted a ghost granny and manually dropped the chain on to it when the climb got too steep and long
    but for most stuff in the Dales just use the 1 x 10

    BadlyWiredDog
    Full Member

    I run 33 x 11-36 10-speed on a winter hardtail in the Peak. It’s fine on 99% of stuff round here, with a 32-tooth it’d be very slightly better on very steep hills, but as above, it all depends on how strong/fit you are and what your local riding is like. I started off with a 34-tooth chainring, but prefer the 32 or 33 option. You do spin out occasionally downhill, but mainly on tarmac and I can live with that.

    You could always try the single ring front and go double later if it doesn’t work for you? I’m not convinced that 1x combos are as inherently wonderful as folk make out anyway. You save a little weight, but that’s not much consolation if the pay-off is that you can’t ride up things.

    zero-cool
    Free Member

    Orange Alpine 160 with 32×11-36 and I struggle on really steep stuff (but then I did on 22/32 x 11-36). You do get stronger if you stick with it but it will tire you faster than having a granny ring.

    kimbers
    Full Member

    Ran 30 x 11-36 first half of last year, did some very hilly rides, including ukges and ews1 at tweedlove
    I’m not the fittest and I managed it all on my 160mm 13.5 kg enduro bike
    So it is doable, did find that I was spinning out a bit on fast descents, but made it up everything

    Swapped to 32 x 11-40oneup and its even betterer

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    As per trout, I have 1×10, 30 11-42 and a ghost granny. For local rides (approx 2500ft) it’s not used, but for big climbs and at the end of a long day I can manually shift if I need to.

    IMO you need to be moderately fit to get the best from 1×10 and also have a bit of an ‘oh well’ mindset about spinning out on fast sections. My fitness has declined a bit in the last few months and it’s a bit harder getting on with 1×10 than before.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I ride 1×10, live in a reasonably hilly area – our nightrides generally have about 1000ft of climbing, and manage ok on a 32 front ring.

    Typo? 1000ft of climbing is nothing?

    As you acknowledge, it’s entirely about you and your legs and riding style. Try it. Work out an equivalent gear to your proposed lowest and go for a ride without dropping lower.

    J-R
    Full Member

    I use 1×10 in the Surrey Hills. Don’t laugh – a typical ride is 2500- 3000ft of climbing some of which is at the limits of what the tyres will grip.

    1 x 10 works fine even without a 42T ring, as others have said it depends on your legs. If you are happy with 3 x10 you will probably be fine with a few less geas at the top and bottom end – just give it a go. Look at it another way, it’s like single speed, but much much easier.

    vinnyeh
    Full Member

    I’ve done the same as troutie- narrow/wide, with the addition of a granny ring sitting there without shifter weighs 2/3 of sfa, and, more than once, to my shame, I’ve been glad to have that closely spaced set of gears available when legs have said enough’s enough.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    I like the idea of 1×10, but for me it’d be an 11-36 cassette (not willing to invest in a 40/42t setup) on a 650b, probably a 34t chainring.

    That’s fairly tough gearing (equivalent to 36t on a 26″) – I ran it for about 8 months on my 27.5 before swapping to a 32t. It works great for me in a reasonably hilly area but our hills are not high so you’ll rarely be climbing more than 500′ in one go. I’ll manage about 3000′ of ascent in 20 miles on a typical ride. Noting how much easier the small change from 34 to 32 has made the climbs, I think a 42t expander sprocket would give me plenty of range for bigger hills – and wouldn’t cost any more than having a double or triple. I’m not super fit but I am a fairly strong rider – if I was more lightly built but not much lighter I think I’d struggle.

    gazhurst
    Free Member

    I have had a 1 x 10 set up on my 27.5 hardtail race bike for some time now. I was running a 32t with 11-36 and I never had a problem in areas like the Surrey Hills or Afan etc. I might have had to hike a bike a few times during a race but I’d put that down to traction issues and fatigue rather than the gearing.

    That said, I changed to a 34t up front last week in anticipation of fitting my new XTR 11 speed and went to Brechfa. I was still using the 11-36 at the time and I really really struggled. If I was to carry on using 1 x 10 then for somewhere like Brechfa i’d be running a 32t max (probably give serious thought to a 30t).

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Typo? 1000ft of climbing is nothing?

    Aye, granted, but on a nightride, by the time we’ve talked shit, we probably only turn the pedals for an hour!. I did say reasonably!.

    Edit – looking back at my rides on strava – generally 1500ft.

    roverpig
    Full Member

    I’ve been experimenting with 1×10 on my Solaris (29er) for a few months up here in the North East of Scotland. I’ve gone with a 28T chainring and a 42T expander sprocket, so about as easy as possible, but it’s still not been without its issues. Here’s what I’ve discovered:

    First, the obvious point; you don’t need to be any fitter to climb in a higher gear, you just need to be stronger and strength comes naturally with time. In other words, to climb the same hill at the same speed you need to put out the same power regardless of the gear. OK, there are second order effects to do with efficiency and slight changes in weight with 1×10, but the main point is that you need bigger muscles to push that bigger gear and if you push that bigger gear for a while you’ll develop those muscles and end up climbing the same gradient at the same speed as before, just with a lower cadence.

    Climbing at a lower cadence seems to bring some benefits in terms of traction and once you’ve built up the strength it seems to be easier to get up technical stuff in the higher gear.

    So far so good. However, you are putting more stress on your knees and my left one is currently not happy with this deal 🙂 Bear in mind that I’m 50 and my knees may just be wearing out a bit, but I have a sharp pain in my left knee that comes on after (and sometimes during) a ride and persists for a few days. Climbing (or descending) stairs can be fun for a day or two after a good ride. I’m not totally sure of this yet, but it seems to be less of a problem if I ride my 26″ Five with it’s 2×10 setup for a while, so the 1×10 may be playing a part. As I say it could just be age or it could just be that I’ve built up a bit of extra thigh muscle and haven’t yet built up the supporting muscles around the knee. But either way, watch those knees.

    Xylene
    Free Member

    What on earth is a ghost granny?

    Why does a 42t cost more?

    Been out of the mountain biking scene for a couple of years.

    Last thing I was riding was a 1×9 Voodoo Wanga

    njee20
    Free Member

    What on earth is a ghost granny?

    Fit a granny ring, but no front mech – so you have to manually shift if you really need it.

    Why does a 42t cost more?

    You can’t buy 10 speed cassettes bigger than 36 (barring some quirky niche manufacturers), so you have to get an aftermarket expanded for the 42.

    Xylene
    Free Member

    Ok gotcha on the 42t

    Why though would you fit a ghost granny and not the mech and shifter?

    Jeffus
    Free Member

    I’ve been riding 36 front 11-36 rear for about 5 years can usually get up most hills, but last year my fitness was poor so I did struggle on long climbs, I was just slow still did them but slowly and now my right knee gets sore, so I’m thinking of going 32 up front for the winter see how it feels, 😀

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Why though would you fit a ghost granny and not the mech and shifter?

    Fashion. Front mechs aren’t compatible with the Enduro look. A granny gear is camouflaged enough to get away with it.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Yep. Weight I guess too. 1×10 drops half a pound or so, adding a granny only uses 25g or so of that.

    Nipper99
    Free Member

    11/36 with a 30t up front for local riding, s and mid wales – all hilly. Was using a 32t up front which is fine for most things but the 30t gives a little more flexibilty. I like the idea of a ghost granny -I have a 20t Middleburn front ring which I will chuck on any try

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    11-40 with 32 up front. Plus ghost granny, only used the granny once all year and that was up the Honister Pass. I only push when everybody else pushes.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    When I’m fit and strong it’s great.

    Right now I’m really not and it punishes you and there is nowhere to hide…

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    Was ok, ran it for a year in the not very hilly midlands, but my knee’s didn’t like it, they click now all the time and didn’t before.. gone ‘back’ to a dual setup & much prefer it.
    Totally lost as to why ppl would run a ‘ghost’ granny, without a mech/shifter, bizarre

    breadcrumb
    Full Member

    I ride in Lakes, 26″ with 32t N/W and a 36/11 cassette. I find it fine, but then I single speed quite a bit too.

    32:11 is fine too, unless you blast down fire roads all the time. On road sections I can hold a decent speed with a high cadence.

    nicolaisam
    Free Member

    Been running 1×10 for a while

    30 with a 11-36 cassette.

    I average 100ft of climbing per mile.

    Summer will go back to a 32t front.

    I find it fine,Have found no climbs i cant do that i could on a 2x system

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    Totally lost as to why ppl would run a ‘ghost’ granny, without a mech/shifter, bizarre

    Because you can use a narrow-wide main ring which is much better at holding the chain on than a normal shifting ring and mech.

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    Really? But you still want a granny, which when matched with a mech, the chain doesn’t fall off IME. Not to worry, I must be daft not to see the sense there.

    njee20
    Free Member

    But a mech, shifter, cable etc adds weight and cost, potentially to get used once or twice a year. I get why people would do it, but i wouldn’t personally.

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    … and the majority of posters on here are race snake elite racers, where that maybe matters? 😉

    njee20
    Free Member

    It’s not really any different to using 2.5″ super tacky tyres year round for your annual Alps trip. People set their bikes up to suit the vast majority of their riding, doesn’t seem unreasonable. Using a narrow wide ring is quieter, lighter and cheaper than a front mech. Not that hard to understand.

    julians
    Free Member

    Its going to depend on how fit you are, but I couldnt get away with 1 x 10 on a standard cassette, its only the availability of 42 tooth range expanders that allowed me to ditch the front mech and other stuff.

    On my 26 inch wheeled bike I used a 32 tooth front ring, and an 11-42 tooth rear cassette, and got up everything I used to get up with the 2 x 10 setup. I ride the peaks, wales, lakes, southern spain, alps, trail centres, including long multiday trips and I’m definitely not a racing snake.

    I’ve just switched to a 650b frame, and it was surprising how much harder the slightly larger wheels made things, so I’ve dropped down to a 30 tooth front ring on this bike, this keeps the overall gearing about the same as my previous 26 inch wheeled bike.

    thegreatape
    Free Member

    Really? But you still want a granny, which when matched with a mech, the chain doesn’t fall off IME. Not to worry, I must be daft not to see the sense there.

    Think of it as an emergency really low gear, for very occasional rather than regular use.

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    Yep. Weight I guess too. 1×10 drops half a pound or so, adding a granny only uses 25g or so of that.

    This, plus generally simplicity. For me, it’s the emergency get out gear when I’m spent, or for when the climbs are of Lakeland tech proportions, or I’m getting over a cold, or whenever I’m below par.

    Generally I dislike 2*10 and the large step in ratios between the front two rings and how it effects the use of the rear cassette, plus, in my normal riding I can get away with the normally setup 1*10.

    If it wasn’t for the cost I’d be running 1*11 with a 28t ring on both my 29ers and I don’t think I’d need the ghost granny then.

    Andy-R
    Full Member

    thegreatape – Member
    Really? But you still want a granny, which when matched with a mech, the chain doesn’t fall off IME. Not to worry, I must be daft not to see the sense there.
    Think of it as an emergency really low gear, for very occasional rather than regular use.

    That’s what I did in Greece this year – used a 30T N/W and 11-40T cassette and fitted a granny with no front mech so I could manually shift it if I ever needed to.
    I only used it once in ten weeks of riding and that was on a long and technical but not overly steep climb, the sort of thing that when you’re fresh you wouldn’t think twice about but at the end of the day it’s a different matter (well, for me anyway)…
    The steeper stuff tends to be shorter and I managed all of that fine, only using the 40T an odd time.

    Lawmanmx
    Free Member

    I rode C-y-b Beast a few months back on my 26 mega with 11/36 and 34 up front and found some of the climbs a bit hard going, so ive put a 40 expander on the back and everything is just gravy now, hth 🙂

    br
    Free Member

    I like the idea of 1×10, but for me it’d be an 11-36 cassette (not willing to invest in a 40/42t setup) on a 650b, probably a 34t chainring.
    For the majority of my riding I reckon it would work, but, I do have some very steep route options on my doorstep that I don’t currently explore as singlespeed.
    I was wondering, those of you in places like the Lakes etc, do you cope with 1×10 without expander rings or are you double/triple? If I go double, it will be 24/36t with a 11/32 cassette.
    I realise it’s a very personal choice, linked to legs ability etc, but willing to take on board some input to help me decide.

    I recently went 1×10.

    Started with 32 front and 11/36 rear. Hard work on the long (and steep) stuff where previously I’d have dropped to the granny in the odd/steeper bits.

    Swapped to a 32 front and 11-40 rear (Hope T-Rex). Lots better, still can’t get up a couple of slopes where previously I needed the granny (on a 34 rear).

    Luckily on a 26er, so a 650B or 29er will just be harder.

    Scottish Borders, and to give you an idea of routes:

    Today – 11 miles and 2200ft
    Tuesday – 20 miles and 4200ft

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