Noticed a bit of an odd problem this week: tightening the quick release on my front wheel is stopping it from spinning properly. I had assumed tightening it was pushing the wheel to the side a bit and the brake was rubbing but I don't think that's the problem after all.

So, presumably the hub/bearing(s) need slackened off a bit so the QR doesn't tighten things up too much. I imagine things will start to wear if I leave it as it is.

What I really want to know is this: Can I tinker without doing a lot of damage or is this a shop job?

You can tinker with it, take it that the hub uses cup and cones with ball bearings? The cones need loosening get yourself onto the sheldon site or even Park Tools to see how it is done. The axle should feel slightly lose before the QR is done up. The knack is in the cone spanner tightening bit.

Good luck it might be a bit frustrating at first but once you have done it once you can look down on those awful cartridge bearing users 😉

Easy job…

http://steveukmtb.wordpress.com/shimano-hub-overhaul-cup-and-cone/

But if this has just happened 'randomly', then don't be surprised if your bearings or cups/cones have degraded.

Some of that is gibberish to me. I'll have a nose at the sites you've recommended though. Can't be that hard, can it*.

You know, I've seen hundreds of posts on the internet where someone misspelled lose as loose, but yours is the first I've seen where loose was misspelled as lose. 😀

* Famous last words?

Three_Fish – I only noticed it when I took the wheel off. I will try hard not to cry if the damage is already done.

PS – how do I tell if they're degraded anyway?

PS – how do I tell if they're degraded anyway?

It's like I said in the overhaul guide; the cups or cones may have worn/pitted. If the grease has dried out or been washed out and serious pitting has occured, it can effectively make the cups and/or cones larger, thus causing the bearing assembly to drag. Factor the QR tension into this and you can end up with a wheel that doesn't want to turn.

It's possible that the cones have just somehow managed to work their way inboard, but usually when a cone and lock-nut shifts it'll go the other way and the assembly will loosen.

Hopefully, though, you'll just need to reset the cones and lock-nut.

Steve

Cheers, mate. I'll see what I can do with it.

Gordy, tell people whereabout you are in the world and they might be willing to show you how to do it. I would if you're near Nottingham

Edinburgh, so I'm only about 300 miles away from you, Onzadog. Meet you in the middle? ;O)

I've a couple of mates who probably know how to do it.

I'd say pop into the bike chain in edinburgh with the wheel and ask- mark'll sort you out for the price of a tube of grease that you'll need.

Actually, I've got grease and the tools etc. but it's very much a case of all the gear and no idea.

I'll take it to a bike shop if I cannae get it sorted myself though.

You know, I've seen hundreds of posts on the internet where someone misspelled lose as loose, but yours is the first I've seen where loose was misspelled as lose

LOL, it was late OK! I also had just arrived in from a bike ride and I was using the phone to browse/type – enough excuses yet?

Plenty of degreaser and clean up the races and balls, check for scoring, pitting etc. Try Simply Bearings if you think you need new ball bearings.

Wheel building will be your next 'how can I' 😉

It only just occurred to me that the ruddy thing's still under warranty at the Edinburgh Bike Co-op. And they serviced it a few months ago but I don't know if they really checked the wheels properly.

Well, FWIW, a bit more care tightening the wheel up seems to work. :O)