Might there be a market for a helmet that doesn’t look like it was designed in the 70s?

Petzl Ecrin Roc – used by all the professional climbers / riggers.

there are a number of helmets that don’t. All I ask from a climbing helmet is that it fits as comfortably as my bike lid but the search continues!

Petzl Ecrin Roc – used by all the professional climbers

no it’s not. They either don’t wear one or wear only what their sponsors allow them to.

Climbing helmets are toss, fact. They straddle wildly differing disciplines- a winter climber needs a different protection from a weekend crag rat but they are both sold the same helmet. Sort this and you could make a killing. 😆

Climbing helmets are toss

some are good at what the helmet is designed for – rocks falling from above but most don’t offer anywhere near enough protection that is required from modern climbing.

but mostly, yes they are garbage.

some are good at what the helmet is designed for – rocks falling from above

Not exactly the number one risk at stanage is it?

This is precisely my point as to why climbing helmets are toss. Not helped by the testing standards placing such importance on falling rock protection.

It ties the manufacturers hands somewhat on making more modern helmets suited to different disciplines.

Not exactly the number one risk at stanage is it?

This is precisely my point as to why climbing helmets are toss. Not helped by the testing standards placing such importance on falling rock protection.

I agree. I suspect bike helmets provide better protection from the needs of crag climbing!

When I started climbing I wore my MTB helmet but got slated as it was not a climbing helmet and rocks could go through the vents (this was at mainly at Gritstone crags….)

I feel more at risk of banging my head from a leader fall by twisting or turning when the rope takes and hitting my head on the rock. I feel a cycle helmet will protect me against this just as well if not better than a climbing helmet.

you could be forgiven for thinking that the old pezl meteor helmet was a bike helmet!

The only time I have had anything hit my helmet was in winter from a tennis ball sized piece of water ice.
That said I know a guy who fell on a route and the peice of pro above him pinged out and hit his helmet so hard that it cracked it.

IMO helmets are for for stopping stuff falling from above from breaking your skull. I’ve done a fair bit of ground-up new routing on mountain crags and sea cliffs and would wear a helmet for these as you sometimes lob off with no prior warning when holds snap;you don’t always get a chance to control your swing-in in these circumstances.
Conversely, I once had a friend snap a peg during a leader fall; the peg hit him on the forehead just at the point where a helmet rim would have deflected it into his eye!
I would use a hard shell helmet for climbing ‘cos I think the biggest risk is still stuff landing on your head (particularly on beginner mountain crags like the Ranoch Wall, Sron na Ciche or Cloggy where the “learned to climb at Stanage” crowd come to endanger themselves and others present at the crag.

Helmets designed to protect you from things falling from above perform poorly at protecting from side impacts. The point is that the learned to climb at stanage crowd form by far the largest section of the climbing community and not winter climbers but they are sold the same helmets.

Weekend craggers do not face debris falling on them very often. Using your example of a hold snapping the fall is more likely to result in a side impact than a top one.

But what would TJ say?

Petzl Ecrin Roc – used by all the professional climbers / riggers.

Following a long conversation with the guys who do the CE testing, this is the dogs nuts.

It will take more hits above the CE rating than any other. The left it on the machine overnight after it had failed, just to see in the morning it took another 6/7 above the CE test for head impact. Who gives a sh*t what it looks like it works.

where the “learned to climb at Stanage” crowd come to endanger themselves and others present at the crag.

Nice bit of snobbery there.

I have a Petzel Ecrin Roc that I use when I’m worried about stuff falling from above. Otherwise it isn’t used as the disadavantages far outweigh the little protection it could offer in a fall.

I would use a hard shell helmet for climbing ‘cos I think the biggest risk is still stuff landing on your head (particularly on beginner mountain crags like the Ranoch Wall, Sron na Ciche or Cloggy where the “learned to climb at Stanage” crowd come to endanger themselves and others present at the crag.

Quite a fair point, Peak Grit doesn’t equip you for the mountains. There are a huge amount of “I can climb VS I did it at Stanage” I was one, got a very rude awakening. When I stopped climbing I wasn’t pushing that much further on Stanage Popular end but I was solid at the grade round the rest of it.

It will take more hits above the CE rating than any other.

Great, apart from the testing being fundamentally flawed. I own one too but it’s important to understand its weaknesses as well as it’s strengths.

Weird I thought the Stanage CS routes were harder than the ones on mountains and sea cliffs

Not much falls down at stanage but the top is looser at Millstone

I get the impression a few of you haven’t looked for a new helmet lately!

Climbing helmets aren’t toss or garbage and there are plenty around that offer loads of side/back impact protection (as opposed to ‘falling object’ protection. And there are some that fit as well as, or even better than cycling helmets – check out the new BD Tracer for example.

EDIT – That said, things like the Ecrin Roc and Elios aren’t the most comfortable (on me) – they could definitely do with improvements.

Just to clear up a few points:I agree that Gritstone routes are harder for the grade than others in the country; any snobbery expressed is merely my reaction to the impression given in the climbing media over decades, that the Peak District has the best climbing in the country.
What you see when you visit the mountain crags similar to the ones I mentioned, is climbers who are technically proficient but are not competent in a mountain environment: Typically they are not very compentent with rope handling or setting up belays; worst of all when they get to the top of a route, they are often unaware of how important it is not to dislodge stones down on to those below. Having been nearly killed once by a team knocking a table sized block down a popular route at Cloggy, I have fairly strong feelings about this issue.

Gritstone routes are harder for the grade than others in the country

Done any Northumberland sandstone?

I just wish they all would use a material for the strapping that doesn’t tweeze my stubble when I haven’t had a shave for a few days! it bloody hurts!

OP, are you just making a general question or do you have a design in mind?