PSA Shimano mtb clutch with road shifters possible

I am a big fan of Lindarets products, but this looks like it could be ace. I can now mate a shimano clutch to my 1×10 or 11 cx

http://www.lindarets.com/tanpan

I will report back!

I used to use an LX rear mech with ultegra shifters to allow for a larger cassette. Why do you need a thingamagiggy?

I used to use an LX rear mech with ultegra shifters to allow for a larger cassette

I assume you mean with 9 speed lx rear mech and 9/10 speed shifters.

10 speed and 11 speed mtb has different cable pull ratio to older road 10 speed and mtb 9 speed, hence the need for some means of converting.

HOWEVER, I have used the shimano rear mech tension mod and haven’t dropped a chain all CX season on my 10 speed STI/9 speed rear mech set up… I’m not sure there’s much need for a clutch mech.

That looks interesting. Should be able to use a clutch mech with my Ultegra hydraulic brakes now 🙂

Am I correct in thinking that it would need to be used with an 11speed MTB cassette and not an 11 speed road cassette?
It doesn’t seem to say that anywhere.

I still get a slap now and again on my 1x set up esp on monster cross days on rocky descents.

Great just when I’ve stuck a Praxis on! Would rather have gone 11 speed with 11 speed XT 11-40 but nice to have this option now for when the shifters and rear mech give up. (probably never!)

I have a clutch mech on a drop bar bike, these days the clutch is off as the chain doesn’t drop much anyway and the clutch makes the shift stickier. It seemed like a good idea for rattly downhills but in reality it’s hardly been needed – you’re just not going as hard on drop bar bikes as an MTB. YMMV etc, I know : )

3 peaks? Big range 1x and cheap clutch mech. I didn’t get on with SRAM cx1

does it really need a rollathingmy, don’t you just need a bunch of spacers under the wire clamp?

Or was that SRAM only?

Tempted by them to enable me to use 10spd mechs instead of fudging a 9spd in there with a 10spd mtb block but as they cost as much as a decent mech I’m not sure. (not really fussed about the clutch feature)

I’ve used the road link for running a 11-36/40 cassette on a short road mech. Cheap and works.

Am I correct in thinking that it would need to be used with an 11speed MTB cassette and not an 11 speed road cassette?
It doesn’t seem to say that anywhere.

+1 confused 😐

Am I correct in thinking that it would need to be used with an 11speed MTB cassette and not an 11 speed road cassette?

Notmyrealname,

The Shimano/SRAM 10s mountain and road cog pitch is the same and while some published numbers disagree we’ve been told by Shimano and SRAM that the 11s pitches are identical or effectively so- meaning that the Tanpan will work on either.

That said, there aren’t many 11-36t and larger road cassettes for either 10s or 11s, so we expect that most will be on mountain cassettes.

And yes- the clutch mech/Shimano hydro combination is ace 😀

Marc

3 peaks? Big range 1x and cheap clutch mech. I didn’t get on with SRAM cx1

Absolutely! If we were only big enough to justify the trip over as a marketing expense. 3 Peaks is exactly the sort of thing we had in mind- and it’s on the ‘before I die’ list for sure.

Marc

slight hijack. I went down the 1×9 route (yet using a 10spd chain) but it bothers me that now one of my shifters is now just a break lever yet at the same time think it would look and more importantly feel odd to have mismatching levers. Anyone got a solution to this. Do your levers flap in the wind, so to speak?

Marc, I’ve just emailed and then seen this post/thread.

If you ever want to join me for 3peaks, I’m sure I can put you up for a few nights. 🙂

Si

My levers don’t flap!

think it would look and more importantly feel odd to have mismatching levers

I went from ss to 1×10, was wondering what to do about levers, ended up getting a pair of 105 from classifieds, LH shifter was knackered anyway (so cheap) I hacksawed the little lever off. Odd levers/hoods would be a little weird, don’t notice any flapping about

My lh lever doesn’t flap since I went 1×10 on the cx, perhaps yours is fubarred

I’ve now listed the Tanpan on our site, ready for preorders. Delivery should be early April.

Click here!

slight hijack. I went down the 1×9 route (yet using a 10spd chain) but it bothers me that now one of my shifters is now just a break lever yet at the same time think it would look and more importantly feel odd to have mismatching levers. Anyone got a solution to this. Do your levers flap in the wind, so to speak

Simplest solution would be to run a gear cable from it as normal, then terminate it in an electrical connector somewhere discrete, so the lever can’t pull cable and therefore can’t flap. You could probably just about do it under the bar tape near the stem if your bars have a big enough cable recess.

If you ever want to join me for 3peaks, I’m sure I can put you up for a few nights.

Ooh- tempting! That would mean getting in much better shape though 😕

Looks like a tidier version of the Jtek shiftmate which I’ve currently got fitted. Be interested to see how the cable wraps around the wheel as on the jtek it goes over a pretty sharp edge meaning there’s a good chance it won’t last too long. Also it had to be setup with a lot of tension in the cable and with minimal amounts of adjustment available when it stretches.
Still, had a little ride today and my Tiagra 10spd shifter worked a dream with the clutch mech.

Completely OT but Tiagra levers on the cable discs on my CDF10 with ice tech rotors are obscenely powerful!

Lindarets

. I thought they made chocolates.

Got mine eventually after getting stuck with customs. It’s really easy to set up, although I did have to pair it up with the road link (I think they recommend the goat link with 1×10). It shifts really really sweetly! Quick shake down today on lanes with clutch off and belting down some slap worthy tracks with clutch on, all good.

Glad to see- I have one from 18bikes waiting for me to get round to fitting it. Which cassette and mech are you using? 10 or 11 speed shifters?

10sp Ultegra atm. Xt GS clutch.

Recommended then?

Oooo interesting.

I like shimano, I like 1x and I like my crosser in big gear/tyre mode for trips to the hills; long up, slappy slappy down! I had sram cx1 and don’t like double tap. So, until shimano get a drop bar 1x cx clutch to market, this is ace.

Ah, cracking. I snapped up the 685 brakes when they were cheap on mantel last year and the lindarets doodad was what I was waiting for to be able to run them without needing new wheels (11sp). Otherwise I was going to have a go at making something similar. Going to be starting with the 10sp cassette and mech I have already and if that isn’t great I suppose I’ll have to upgrade…

Hang on the is the 10 speed version for new or old shimano 10 speed road shifters?does it work with 4600 or 4700 cable pull?

And if it’s the older cable pull doesn’t that mean you could use it to provide a clutched mech for 9 speed (road or MTB)… What have I missed?

This is 10sp cassette btw! There is a tanpan for 11sp specifically.

swanny853 – if you’ve got rs685s then you’re still going to need an 11spd freehub aren’t you? You could put a 10spd cassette on regular wheels but you’ll still have an extra gear at the lever won’t you?

I’ve got some 685 levers and i like it that I can use a clutch mech if I want to now.

if you’ve got rs685s then you’re still going to need an 11spd freehub aren’t you? You could put a 10spd cassette on regular wheels but you’ll still have an extra gear at the lever won’t you?

Long term I’m planning on putting an 11-40 11sp MTB cassette on it with a proper 11sp mech, so ‘old’ 10sp freehubs are fine. In the meantime the 10sp setup will have a spare click but I’m planning on it being at the low end so the limit screw stops it ever happening.

I finally got around to starting to set this up. I’m using 11sp rs685 shifters, a 10s zee mech and a 10s xt cassette. One a kinesis pro 6 if that makes any difference….

Pretty straightforward initial setup, the only slight issue is that it seems to have been designed for chainstay cable routing. Mine comes down the seatstay and the outer has to make a bit of an awkward twist to get into the tanpan. Doesn’t seem to cause any problems at present though.

The first nine gears seem pretty bob on, just getting it into the lowest gear seems a bit hesitant and a bit noisy once it’s there. I assume this is to do with using the 11s tanpan with a 10s mech.

Given it a rest for tonight, will update when I get it working properly (or don’t).

Well, after an almighty amount of delay I finally got around to finishing the setup and riding the thing. Cut a bit short by the back brake seizing on and the rear tyre getting a gash putting me on a limp home, but the rear gears were pretty much fine. I’d say on the whole comparable or better than forcing a normal road mech to take a 1x 11-36 which is what I’d done previously.

As before, there was a little bit of an issue with lowest gear which seems to be down to mixing 10 and 11s parts. There was a bit of a balancing act with cable tension and low limit screw to get a good shift and low gear position in the lowest but one shifter gear with the lowest cassette gear, while blocking out the ‘extra’ shifter click. I did think about keeping the ‘spare’ click at the high end, but this in theory keeps you from ever using it rather than being able to overshift. I may reconsider after a few more rides.

Now I just need to put the miles in on this cassette and wear it out- I think an 11-40 11s with one of the new SLX mechs would make an absolutely cracking CX drivetrain.

Oh, and I was pleased enough that I ordered a 10s tanpan as well. That’s gone on the roadrat so I can run some properly low gears for touring in france this summer. It was a similar cost to buying a 9sp mech and as I already had a spare 10s lying around this seemed less wasteful.

Again, a bit finnicky on the cable set up but it took me to the south downs and back with camping gear last weekend.

Just came across this thread today. I’d been looking for some real world experience of using the ShiftMate or Tanpan devices a few weeks ago. So far my own experience hasn’t been great … maybe it’s just me and I’m not as handy with a 5mm allen key as I think 🙂

Briefly, I tried the Tanpan and couldn’t get it to work for more than a few shifts. The cable kept slipping and the indexing quickly went out of sync. Seems like Wolftooth are aware of this and have a new pulley wheel design “Our latest pulley wheel design features a cable set screw. This ensures the cable does not slip. Contact jackh@wolftoothcomponents.com for replacement of first generation wheels. Include your shipping address and which wheel you need (SH-10 or SH-11).” http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/tanpan-installation-instructions

Next I tried a Jtec ShiftMate 6. Similar design, but the sharp edge at the cross-over point seemed to stop any slippage initially. Worked “ok” on a few rides, but always needed a bit of tinkering and shifts weren’t as good as with the non-clutch 9 speed mech (maybe to be expected because of the increased drag from the clutch? I tried re-setting it up from scratch last night with a new cable and just can’t get the indexing to hold.

Coming back to the Tanpan. Weeks ago I had tried to get in touch with Wolftooth to request a replacement pulley wheel, but they never replied at the time. So 18Bikes were really good and took the Tanpan device back as a return. Now, 3-4 weeks later, a replacement pulley wheel from Wolftooth landed on my doorstep out of the blue. So I’m thinking I need to go back to 18Bikes and give the Tanpan another go. Like others have said, this is something I’d like to see working for the 3 Peaks.

You can just drill a hole in the arm of the rear mech and run the cable through that to alter the pull.

Cool, this is what I need for when I convert my specialized epic. Does anyone know if ultegra hydraulic levers work with xtr calipers? Cheers.