So after building up a Mega TR with mostly components from my other bike, including a set of Pro 2 Evo/Flow EX that I bougth about 1,5 years ago, I experience a clonking sound when applying power. I first assumed it was the chainstay/seatstay bushings as that’s a common fault with these frames, but after replacing them the problem persists. I’ve narrowed it down to the rear wheel as I can recreate the clonking by wiggling the rear wheel side to side (I can’t recreate it by doing the same with the rear triangle itself which should confirm that the bushings are no longer the problem, if they ever were). The hub sits tight in the frame so I can only assume the play is in the hub itself.

So, is it definitely the bearings, or could it be something else? I’ve removed the freehub body, cleaned and regreased everything and reassembled it with Hope’s video playing just to make sure all the parts are in the right place. I didn’t remove the axle or bearings from the hub shell as I don’t have the tools but they felt smooth and play-free to my hands, but maybe that’s no guarantee they’re actually fine?

I didn’t remove the axle or bearings from the hub shell as I don’t have the tools

Your cassette isn’t “lose” is it? The same happened to me, upon further inspection, I noticed that some rings on my cassette were lose and slipping a small amount when putting power through the pedals.

I’m pretty sure the cassette isn’t loose, and I can’t imagine that producing the kind of side to side play I can generate by wiggling the wheel, but I’ll double check in the morning. How did you solve that, just tighten the lockring up?

Sounds like your freewheel body needs a service maybe check your pawls and springs.. 🙂 http://youtu.be/XbOEc0Jrz9A

Sorry ignore last post didn’t realise you’d already stripped the freewheel hub.. Mine did the same once it was a crack in freewheel body the next time was prawns and springs.. Maybe worth changing all the bearings.

Get another wheel to try. If you cant recreate the sound with the other wheel, its the frame bearings or the shock bushings. If you can, its the wheel.

Dont just replace things without knowing what the cause is, thats a waste of time and money.

Dont just replace things without knowing what the cause is, thats a waste of time and money.

Yeah, that’s why I was asking for advice first. 🙂
Cheers, your suggestion is a great and simple way to isolate the problem and I feel foolish for not thinking of it. 😳

The reason why i say try another wheel is that tou can put a lot more force through the frame with a wheel than you can with the rear triangle.

So, is it definitely the bearings, or could it be something else?

It could be the bearings moving in the shell or the freehub body. I’ve seen it in pro 2’s and road hubs.

First things first – try another wheel. If that solves it, dismantle the hub but try and push the bearings out by hand (or finger)
Some freehub body bearing seats were a bit over sized in the past and bearings can be easily pressed in with a finger. I’ve also removed/pressed in (with ease) bearings in the shell itself. If they drop out with ease, then there’s no point in spending money on new bearings.

At this point, call Hope. They are amazing at sorting folk out.

If they drop out with ease, then there’s no point in spending money on new bearings.

What about them dropping out with ease makes the bearings OK? (Genuine question)

What about them dropping out with ease makes the bearings OK? (Genuine question)

I think the point he’s trying to make is that if the bearings come out too easily, then there is a problem with the hub shell.

Ahhh, thanks duffer! Just reading up as mine feels like its in dire need of some TLC.

the bearing in the free hub go well before the ones in the hub and are much easier to replace; mine felt like a rumbling from the rear even though there was no free play.

Make sure the axel is tight. i had a little play in my Pro2 found out it was the maxel that just needed knipping up.