So ive got my 2016 pikes and its about that time to service the lowers. The question ive got is its a bit muddy (time of year) at the moment and would i be better off leaving it till it brightens up (hoping to allow slightly longer between services as its less likely to get contaminated) or just get it over and done with?

It’s an hours work, JFDI

aye…..

just saving that seal kit…

Yep, you would be gutted if you leave it another couple of months and then find some stanchion rub. I’ve just serviced a set of Rebas – took me half an hour with everything at hand. They’re still a bit rubbish, but hey ho. 🙂

Chances are you won’t need to change the seals, just clean them up and regrease/lube them.

Don’t need a seal kit for a lower service unless they are leaking or the oil is getting manky quickly. Just whip the legs out, clean up, re-lube everything and shove em back together

Hose them down, then rub down with a water dispersant like GT85, ACF50 etc then when dry do the service. No probs.

any suggestions on where to get the 0w30 rockshox oil from?

Got mine from amazon

aye its got a 2 month wait though!!

Buy it from whoever’s cheapest and that’ll encourage you to service them more 🙂

I always replace the foam rings if thats what you mean. I got about 30 of them for 8quid online

any suggestions on where to get the 0w30 rockshox oil from?

got some from JE james 2 weeks ago.

as above it’s a quick job: i didn’t do the seals as i was only at 2 hours riding. stripped them down to check they weren’t dry from new. Only one side was!

purchased from loco so apparently he rebuilds them with oil and grease to ensure they arnt dry from the factory.

ordered 🙂

http://www.tftuned.com/oils-grease/c27

Quick thread hijack.. apologies.
I have some 0w30 oil from last summer, the colour has totally gone from it, it’s like a weak red/brown rather than the vivid bright red it was new.. is this safe to use or am I best getting a new bottle?

Quick thread hijack.. apologies.
I have some 0w30 oil from last summer, the colour has totally gone from it, it’s like a weak red/brown rather than the vivid bright red it was new.. is this safe to use or am I best getting a new bottle?

I’d get some new personally. Generally when hydraulic fluids like that start going milky or pale it’s because they have started absorbing moisture, brake fluids can do the same thing when stored after being opened.

Im sure i read somewhere the 2016 pikes take 10ml of oil in each leg rather than 15ml and 5ml in the previous years. Can anyone confirm ?

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/cZrd5KkU40LCI5NTSR9PmBRAK8yHZyLgInpBZNOz1lg/mtime:1485554967/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005176_2017_fs_oil_air_coil_spring_spec_rev_d_english.pdf

Thanks for that. It confirms 10ml in each for the 2017 pikes but what about the 2016 ?

My 2015’s say “5cc” on the bolt. I presume the 2016’s would too, if it was different to the other leg.

What bolt ?

The silver bolt that’s underneath the red rebound knob on the bottom of the drive-side leg.

https://goo.gl/images/MCmzta

My Understanding is the fork hasn’t changed but the recommended amount of oil has. SRAM manual says 10ml both sides. 2014-2017.

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/gmOgKZ7DHhXl9Khx4PQquHYKdKJiAjoje0sR5di3JKM/mtime:1478797432/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000004984_rev_d_front_suspension_fluid_air_coil_spring_charts_2016_0.pdf

The manual says on p40 2014 to present 5 & 15ml. Info seems a bit contradictory.

https://tinyurl.com/hc2u8ku

Thanks for the tip about it being on the bolt. Just looked and mine says 10cc

Important note

Remember when you re attatch the lowers to do it whilst the upper stanchions are fully extended and not compressed like in the MBR Youtube vid, the muppets are messing up what should be a simple job.

interestingly ive received my pike oil and its more drown than red if that helps.

Any suggestions for a time on this? im hoping to pop a pie in tonight and run into the garage and do it in 25 mins so the missus doesn’t spot. Anything special to note?

Oh right, I might be ok then. I might be getting it confused with Shimano mineral oil.. the RS stuff is like a watery red/brown?

Just a lower leg clean/new fluid doesn’t take long, 30 minutes depends how clean the legs are..

Think I’m going to do mine soon, out of interest how often do you guys change the seals? Any tell tale signs to look for to see if the seals need changing? Also, is it worth buying the Rockshox grease or tf tuned equivalent?

25 mins would be pushing it for someone who has done it many times before…

You have to:
Remove them from the bike (wheel out, brake caliper and hose clip off, stem off and headset apart)
Clean them up externally (otherwise you will end up getting grit on your hands and then inside the fork)
Measure spring PSI and let it all out
Pull apart and drain oil
Pull out and clean foam rings
Clean the main seals
Isopropanol in the lowers and clean then out with a rag on a dowel rod (this is a fiddly job)
Compressor gun (or a long wait) for the inside of the lowers to dry
Oil up and re-insert the foam rings (always takes about 10 minutes to get right!)
Grease the main seals with SRAM butter/slick honey
Insert lowers back in (can take a bit of practice)
10cc oil each side and bolts back in
Clean up all the headset parts that are no doubt full of grit
Refit forks, headset, stem, wheel
Pump back up to required PSI while bouncing forks a bit to equalise + and – chambers

No need to remove forks from bike,and also not necessary to remove air

The most important thing is to check that a magnesium chip has not broken off the lower leg casing when you tap the bolts to release the air spring and the damper rod. If it has then make sure you fish it out of the lowers before going any further.

Remove them from the bike

.

why do you need to remove them for a lower service? I fully serviced my pikes still attached to the bike. Just removed the brake adaptor and caliper so I did not have to realign afterwards.

I have done them on the bike before as well but thought it was a pain keeping the bike vertical in the stand to insert the lowers and put the oil in. I guess you could put the bike upside down on the floor and do it that way.

thankfully i have a stand that i can spin the bike upside down on*

*which usually involves smacking my face on a pedal….

Bookmarked

Changed the oil in lowers on several occasions still attached to the bike, just tilted the frame in the stand 😐

So ended up with fish and chips last night so that didn’t work.

Had to take half a day so did them with the little one having a nap. Took one hour removed from the bike.

Interestingly no crush washers on either of the lowers? Fitted some.

So next question is how often do you service the air and charger assembly?

andybrad – Member

So ended up with fish and chips last night so that didn’t work.

Had to take half a day so did them with the little one having a nap. Took one hour removed from the bike.

Interestingly no crush washers on either of the lowers? Fitted some.

So next question is how often do you service the air and charger assembly?

Personally I alternative between lower service and full service every 6 months – so full service every year. I’m doing my Yari’s myself this weekend, full time I’ve really tried – I suspect a box of bits will be posted to TFT on Monday, but I might just pull it off – the instructions look easy to follow.

What difference does putting the bolts back in with or without the fork compressed make?

I believe there is potential to get a vacuum in the lowers so you may not get full travel