• This topic has 11 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 7 years ago by golo.
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  • Packing a bike with Di2
  • jonba
    Free Member

    Just occurred to me that I’ve not packed a road bike with Di2 before. 2 things I have thought about.

    Do you disconnect a battery? Min is internal in the seatpost. Probably easy enough to disconnect and stop any mid flight shifting damaging anything. IS there a better way to isolate it/turn it off?

    Also I normally remove the rear mech, wrap it and tape it to the seat/chainstay. Is this still the done thing with wires instead of cables. If immobilised I assume it is strong enough?

    Thanks

    cyclistm
    Free Member

    I don’t have di2 so can’t help on your first point but on the second I would definitely remove the rear mech. I’d be worried about breaking it off.

    crazy-legs
    Full Member

    Are you packing it in a solid box (Bike Box Alan type thing)?

    If so it’ll be fine with minimal interference. When I packed my (borrowed) road bike I whipped the seatpost out without thinking about it then thought SHIT! but fortunately the battery was actually inside the seattube!

    Rest of it I just left although it had plenty of packing, dropout spacers and an anti-crush pole in it. Worked fine at the other end.

    The only slight issue I had was the wire routing at the front end which made twisting the bars really awkward. Was terrified of ripping the wire out of the junction box.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I’d not unplug the battery, potential ball ache plugging it all back in. Unplug from the junction box on/around the stem to stop the shifters moving things. Rear mech comes off very easily – pull the wire out. Job done.

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    I find that it’s MUCH easier to remove the mech if you’re worried about it, because there is no fiddle mechanical pull cable to be reset / re-aligned afterwards. Just pull the ‘lecy plug out of the mech, and unbolt it, stick a bit of bubble wrap round it, and tie wrap to inside of chain stay!

    jonba
    Free Member

    It is going in a bag, the same one I have used for many trips but with an older cabled bike. I will be removing rear mech (and hanger if I can’t protect it). It is a question of whether I unplug everything as well and where – junction box, batter, mechs or brifters.

    Cables are pretty robust and quite long to give some flexibility. Usual spacers etc. for dropouts and forks so no worries there. I usually just drop the post in to the frame but can lift it out.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Junction box or shifters. No need to unplug the front mech. Rear mech you’re doing anyway to pack it. Easier than with cables.

    dirtyrider
    Free Member

    I’d not unplug the battery,

    this +1 – my Giant was built with a very short seat tube wire, when i pulled out the seat post the cable unplugged at the BB , which meant i had to remove the cranks, bb, fish out the junction, order a longer cable, refit everything

    jonba
    Free Member

    thanks. Junction box and rear mech it is as they are both easy to access.

    Hopefully I won’t be on here on Sunday asking why it doesn’t work!

    njee20
    Free Member

    You can’t do it wrong. As long as everything is plugged in you’ll be reet. Take the little forked tool to make it easier to plug them back in.

    bigmandh
    Free Member

    Pretty easy job really. I unplugged the battery in the seat post as I took the seat post out. Make sure you’ve changed the gears into large chainring and smallest cog on cassette first. Derailleur came off and wire unplugged and taped to chain stay. Just plug everything back in and works as it should.

    golo
    Free Member

    When you’re unplugging / plugging, it is much easier to use their little plastic tool.

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