My Park beam deflection type have always served me well but I’m chasing a creak and my Park ones don’t fit in the gap I’ve got.

Norbar do a TTI20 and an SL0. Both are 3/8 drive, both are 1-20 Nm which puts my requirement mid range which is great.

The TTI20 lists as being more accurate at plus or minus 3% instead of 4%.
It also offers finer adjustment at 0.1Nm rather than 1Nm (all according to the Cromwell site).
To top it off, the TTI is cheaper. Am I missing something? I know the SL0 has a lot of fans on here.

My mate has the one with 0.1 increments, it’s fantastic.
His came with a calibration certificate from the day before he got it!
Lovely bit of kit, made in Banbury, I think his nephew works for them.
Can’t really see how you could improve on it.

Thanks. I’m set on one of the Norbar I mentioned above, just trying to work out which one.

I don’t think the SLO is not being manufactured any longer. But there were many different versions of the SLO, covered different versions of the Type 2 style listed in BS EN 6789.

I think Norbar claimed the SLO was better than the international std ±4% of reading too.

Go for a TTI20, typical good quality tool made by munchkins in Banbury.

Hot on Torque at the moment, have a 17025 audit in a couple of weeks.

Cheers Lee. I they still list the SL0. I think I might need to give them a call. The difference could be the head clearance. The TTi looks the better unit but if only the SL0 fits then the choice is made.

both are 1-20 Nm which puts my requirement mid range which is great.

You do realise the SL0 is a fixed head (not ratcheting)?

SL0 is also 4-20Nm per Norbar’s website.

I would also have thought that 1/4″ drive would usually be a better choice for bike use for torque in that range, since the smaller hex bits, e.g. 5mm, are more commonly 1/4″ drive.

You do realise the SL0 is a fixed head

My SL0 is ratcheting. The SL0 torque setting only works one way (tightening normal threads). I think the TTi works both ways so if you have any reverse threads that may be a better option.

Edit: May be wrong there, TTi looks like it’s only one way too.

They do a few SL0. I was looking at the ratchet metal rather than the fixed plastic version. Fixed head isn’t a problem and might even be necessary given the access limitations.

Bottom bracket and pedals are the only reverse threads I can think off. Neither fit the 1-20Nm range so I don’t suppose that’s a worry but I didn’t know that.

3/8 drive is going to help with access as I can use a crowfoot to reduce the stack height a bit.

I’ve got a Norbar torque wrench – lovely tool.

We also use them at work for assembling £200k compressors where bolt torque is pretty important for bearing pre-loading, etc.