So now we’re far enough into the 21st century to be sure that it isnt a hoax…..

…. Im considering having a go at tubeless.

Some Crests on at a bargin £36 an end at Wiggle for a day have arrived. What do I need to get them running tubeless without spending a fortune?

I was thinking, this rim strip stuff, gunk and removable core valves for £19:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230799395043

and some summer-weight UST tyres like WTB nano 50gg UST for £47 and end or:
http://www.hotlines-uk.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=71248

or some 2.25″ RR 585g for £37 an end:
http://nextdaytyres.co.uk/Tyres/Schwalbe/Racing-Ralph-29.aspx?ID=543

Do I need any special tools like a valve core key or a sealant injector or can I bodge it with a pair of pliers and a small funnel?

The rim strip and sealants you liink t,o are fine. You don’t need Ust tyres though, tubeless ready are cheaper, lighter and work just fine. I got a pair of. 2.4 snakeskin nobby nics for £57 from bike-discount.de so try there for you Ralphs?
With that kit you don’t need a valve tool. The bottles look like measured doses and squirty nozzles.

can you use UST tyres without sealant then?

I have, on ust rims, the sealant is worth using tho.

I’m not sure how well priced your first link is cf jra.

You can also use regular tires, some better than others.

Try ghetto tubeless first.

It’s cheaper, more satisfying (assuming you get it to work) and cheaper.

I’ve done numerous tyre / rim combinations.

Old tyres work best, new ones are a pig. New tyres should be run with a tube for a bi to get them in shape.

I bought some Stans years ago, still got about 1/3 of it left, cost £20. One BMX inner tube per wheel, cost £3.

JRA – tape = £13.50
JRA – valves = £12.60
JRA – Stans gunk = £6.30

not even close al 😉

the tyre thing is interesting though. I fancy building some superlight summer wheels. Using a 500g tyre instead of my normal 650-700g ones. I like RR and WTBs so assuming they’re not reknowned for being shit with tubeless I might go that way and find some discount sellers.

chl – Id rather not go ghetto when Ive got some nice crests to play with. Stuffing an inner tube in the rim when I can use some yellow tape and valves instead seems silly.

The flexibility on tyres though I can go with.

I sem to remember Ralph’s are a bit tight to fit on crests. Have a google, but above all watch the stans fitting videos.

above all watch the stans fitting videos.

will do, ta.

Have also found: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=71248

What is ghetto tubeless?

What is ghetto tubeless?

Google is your friend . You can convert any rim to tubeless using a bmx inner tube, some sealant and more swearing than a Tourette’s conference.

You are right the tape, fluid and valves. No need for ust tyres. Stans is supposed to be run with standard tyres!

righto.
* goes on hunt for lightest/cheapest 29er tyres *

These are good.

I’m running them on Stans Crest tubless and they are really rather good, a good balance of grip and lightweight.

A claimed weight of 540g on the packaging, look at 29inches.com for a review.

Ah…I just use old valves from burst inner tubes, and bought bulk juice.

I’d avoid light tires, the sidewalls are vulnerable.

cheers kingtut – will check them out.

I found the cheaper performance range of Racing Ralph’s excellent to run tubeless with Stan’s crest rims yellow tape and some local australian made sealant I have not burped one yet and they were doddle to seat. I am waiting for summer to buy some lighter tubeless ready ones although from fitting them to other bikes I have found there side walls a little more porous so they take a little longer to really bed in.