I have swapped my super light carbon fibre road frame for a frame thats been cobbled together from a few steel offcuts, and then had holes drilled everywhere.
Dunno why.
Bought it off Charlie the Bike Monger this week, built it last night. Havent ridden it yet as I need some front mech shims so I can get it in the big ring (the only one I use anyway! hah!).
Size seems about right. I have left the steerer tube purposefully long as I expect to be moving my stem right to the top of it due to my shit back. And the fact I like to be able to see where I’m cycling, especially in heavy traffic – You seem to get alot of it at trail centres these days, but aslong as they move out of the way swiftly when I shout, then I’m ok with it.
The saddle is a Selle Italia SLR 135 with some of the logo’s removed. Dead good saddles, but pretty firm though. Which could cause trouble for some, but I’m used to it since we dont have comfy chairs or settees at my house, only logs.
I think I’m going to get some new wheels for it, a handbuilt set maybe. I’ve sold my PS3, I just need to wait my birthday and christmas money so I should be able to get them in a month.
I too have a stupid amount of spacers but even then I still have more steerer tube sticking out of the top. Partly that’s due to laziness and partly due to watching the bike shop mechanic sweating and swearing even to cut it down to its current length. Those steerers are apparently pigs to cut.
You never know, it might come in handy for extra bar height during a long tour, or as a handy chest-impaler if I have a crash.
“the problem is that the head tube is so short they need 10 yards of headsest spacers to get the bars to a MTBer’s idea of a sensible height. “
FTFY – I think what you meant was “they’re cross bike shaped” 🙂
Actually, I confess I have a couple of spacers on mine, but that’s cos I was told I was buying a 62 – which is the right size for me – and it turned out to be a 60.
Why have you parked your bike outside the house we own in Sheffield?
Or at least it’s an exact copy of our garage entrance, in style, colour, and detail, right down to the drain.Tarmac and walls in a better condition than ours.
Caused me to stop and look closer for 30 seconds or so!
With a bad back and, judging by your seatpost, legs stolen from a giraffe I’m not sure a cross check with its tiny head tube for the size of bike was that sensible a purchase.
With a bad back and, judging by your seatpost, legs stolen from a giraffe I’m not sure a cross check with its tiny head tube for the size of bike was that sensible a purchase.
I often find myself having similar thoughts when I’m stuck in traffic at my local trail centre.
I often think to myself “These idiots have bought a 160mm travel bike to enable them to ride over relatively smooth terrain at incredibly slow speeds. I dont think moutain biking was a sensible hobby for them to persue”
Think the ‘check has different rear spacing (LHT is 135mm only), LHT is lower and slacker to be stable under load, and the LHT is a wee bit heavier. You’ll be able to get a LHT that takes discs soon too.
LHT and CC angles are the same (in big sizes anyway). LHT front end is higher, stays are longer, BB is lower, TT slopes a little. LHT has vertical dropouts, three bottle bosses, rear brake hanger, spoke holder, pump peg, and lowrider bosses on the fork.
It’s an older Schmidt dynohub, paired up with a Solidlights head unit. A bit of a revelation, although the next generation of dynohubs will probably blow it out of the water, certainly as far as low speed performance goes.
Ah, right. Thought it was a dyno but didn’t recognise it and didn’t see anything connected to it 🙂 I’ve just ordered an XT dynohub and B&M Cyo for mine.
Which light unit are you using? (Are Solidlights defunct now?)
The head unit is a Solidlights XB2 with upgrade, bought third hand off a mate.
They aren’t selling new lights any more but still do spares and rewiring.
It used to belong to my girlfriend but she’s just got herself a 2nd generation SON with disc mount, and a Supernova E3 Triple. She’s not taken delivery of the hub yet, but I’ll be interested to see how it works, especially at low speed, as I understand that round about 8 mph (i.e. techy singletrack speed) is where most dynohubs start to become a bit flakey.
Mr Agreeable, lovely build. What front mech are you using? I’ve got those flashy japanese mudguards on my Crosscheck but they stop the front mech moving.
Austin, it’s just a standard band-on Sora front mech. Guards are Honjo, can’t remember the width, I assume they’re the 45mm ones as I’ve had 35mm tyres in them. I have a slightly too long BB spindle – 110mm as I thought it would need loads of clearance for the chainstays – so perhaps that’s why it doesn’t foul.
I took it for its maiden road voyage today. Its lovely. Not as snappy up the hills as the carbon bike, but it descends like a beast. Bumpy roads are no longer unnerving. The riding position feels nice and comfy and the compact drop bars are a revelation. I’m going to ride it again tomorrow, then buy some new wheels for it.
Looks right nice. Good to hear it goes nicely too.
I’ve been thinking about cobbling together one for my my g/f. I expect I’ll like it more than the similar bike I got for myself, which is exactly what happened with the mountain bikes.
Looks good without the stickers, too. Does it come bare with the stickers separate to put on as you like?
Yes, enjoying it at the moment. I’ve been out a few times on it after work this week. Its great for night riding, you dont need to worry about hitting potholes too fast.
Going to get some cx tyres for it after xmas so I can do some off roading.
Posted 12 years ago
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