On a drop bar do it all tourer/commuter type bike.
It’s likely to be used loaded on hills quite frequently, possibly a bit of off road and I’m pretty slow.
🙂 .

So, going the traditional route, I’d planned on going 26/36/48 with a an 11-36 10 speed MTB cassette.
Not keen on brifters, so 10 speed Shimano road bar end shifters and a 9 speed MTB mech.
You can get Microshift bar end shifters that index with MTB 10 speed mech (as per the stock Surly Disc Trucker build), but not aftermarket at the moment.

I could go 2*10 and loose one gear off the bottom and a couple off the top, works out about the same price.
I lose gears and I’m no more futureproofed, so probably not.

Already discounted;
Road triples and doubles – not enough really low gears.
Rolhoff – cost.
11*2 – cost. Happy to switch when it’s reached Deore level. 🙂

Anything obvious I’ve missed?
All ideas welcome, thank you.

Just used a simple MTB triple on the last do it all bike, but flat bar so a lot easier.

I use 3×9 on one bike with bar-end shifters used as thumbies, 2×10 on the other using the Microshift bar ends (samples), 28-40 with 11-32 or 11-36 on the back.

fwiw I don’t find the 40-11 top gear too low, I’m in the top 3 gears a fair bit on fast roads but add some bags and a bigger OD tyre and 40-11 seems fine, means I only use the small ring when loaded on the hills. The 3×9 bike is for off-road and has big 29er tyres so needs the 22-34 at times.

If I didn’t have the microshift bar ends I’d use a 9s set up with shimano bar ends and a set of Middleburn rings on a 2×10 MTB crank, loads of choice in 104 BCD. 28-42 would be ideal, the old Alpine double idea really. Also the Middleburn Incy spider, there’s some useful ratios for that.

A 28-40 with a 36 is my affordable point of reference for 2*10.

Tables suggest about an inch and half off the low end, about 20 off the top.
No biggie and cured by a 42 up front, as you suggest.
Less duplication too, could be a go’er.
🙂

In longevity/capability terms, as I’m not a brifter fan, I see no point in 9 speed.
Why choose it over 10?
Trying to make the indexing on my shifters last as long as possible!

The bike was built up with XT770 was current and I have a stock of 9s spares for it, that’s all. No need to change yet.
Edit, if you meant why 9 over 10 for another bike, simply as you can get 9s bar end shifters to work with 9s MTB kit easily, then all you need is the rings for the front 2×10 crank – debatable though, 10s work fine.

What I like about MTB 2×10 cranks if you use bar-end shifters is the front shift is just either-or and less used anyway, no fussing for the right trim point in the most-often used middle ring. That and 10s double MTB cranks are a bit narrower at the pedals than the triples, only 10mm and not something I bother about, just a bonus. Feels enough like a road crank with a tad more knee room for a small frame bag.

SJS thumbies

I have a Forge MTB right hand mount you could put a bar end shifter of your choice on – make me an offer if interested.

Sorry, misread that – but SJS do have a variety of bar end shifters in stock, too.

No worries Monty,
I’m happy with bar end shifters.

They can be used with anything in the friction setting and don’t tie me to a particular type of brake.

James, I’ll be using a Spa XD2 crank or Stronglight equivalent with a square taper BB and Zircal rings.

Not sure of width, but I can get a double or triple with rings to my size.
Have the equivalent compact double on the ‘road’ road bike – 8 speed STI, been faultless.

Hmm, double v triple.
Genuinely tough choice.

If you’re talking double panniers n big hills just go with a Stronglight Impact Triple, tis what they be designed for innit.

Doubles are what 34/50, so with that dinner plate on the back your suggesting, 26/36/48 is practically the same with the 26 ready for an emergency.

Or is this something egocentric?

tinribz – Member
If you’re talking double panniers n big hills just go with a Stronglight Impact Triple, tis what they be designed for innit.

Blud.
😀
Tempting to stick with what I know.

With the same 11-36 cassette, a 26/36/48 gives me 18.8 inches at the bottom and 113.5 at the top.
A 28/42 gives 20.2 to 99.3.

26 inch wheels, 170mm cranks.
It’s not a huge difference, I’ll have to have a think.

As I say, well up for 2*11 when it becomes available, but I’m not getting younger and I’ve never, ever heard someone complaining because their gears weren’t quite high enough.

Three extra gears v the weight of a chainring?

I have the Middleburn Incy touring spider on 24/38 with 11/32 out back – you can do 22 / 40 on the Incy.

I went 22/32/44 with 9spd 11/32 out back using XT chainset / mechs & Dura Ace bar end shifters on my Genesis Tour de Fer (700×37 tyres). Very happy with the choices so far.

22/32/42 with a 12/34 10spd block Pete. perfect for a big un.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/DicYGT]cidImage_FOTBDCA.JPG[/url] by 20ston, on Flickr

If you’re really actually going to tour (not just look as though you are, but actually just nip to the show now and then) then you can’t have gears too low.
It’s not a race. This is important. See below.
It doesn’t matter if you run out of gears downhill. Just coast.
It does, however, really REALLY matter if you run out of gears going uphill, because it’s all s better to pedal rather then push.
On my 26in tourer I was using 9sp 22/32/44 with 11-34 cassette. Which was fine. Mrs PP has 700c wheels and doesn’t carry as much load as I do, but she has the same but with 12-36 out the back. Which again seems to work fine. She can bowl along at 17-Ish mph on the flat with 2-3 gears left, and that’s all she needs.
I’m currently building a new Genesis Tour de Fer (the new flat barred one) and I’ll be using the same gears I had on my 26in bike and see how I go.
Also, again, if you’re actiually going to be carrying a proper load, don’t skimp on brakes. Rim brakes are inadequate. Decent hydraulic discs are where it’s at.

A quick question about bar end shifters if i may.

Shimano 9s ones can be used in friction mode for the rear, rather than index. Shimano 10s bar ends only do index at the rear. is it possible for a 9s bar end shifter coupled with a 9s MTB rear mech shift a 10s rear cassette in friction mode?

I believe that some Microshift bar ends can be used in friction mode at the rear, but they don’t seem to be readily available in the UK. I think the road BS-A09 and BS-A10 models are rear index only, whereas the road BS-T09 and BS-T10 can be used in both. can’t find anywhere in UK selling T09 or T10 ones.

The Microsoft MTB BS-M10s can be used friction at the rear, but will this only work with a 10s rear mech. My head hurts at this point !

Jerrys, a bar end shifter will work any mech or cassette combo in friction mode, if the mech can fit the cassette size. The MS 10s mtb bar ends will work a 10s mtb mech on either setting, or a 9s mech on friction mode. So if your shifter has a friction mode, any mech could be used in a fix as long as the mech capacity can handle the cassette.

perfect for a big un

Well, until the next one eh Tony? 😆 😉

I currently have a road triple on my do-it-all/touring bike – 30/39(?)/53 with 3×9 old sora STI shifters.

If I’m honest the 53 is never used and 30 not quite low enough. Would the Sora triple STI’s work with a mtb chainset?

I use a triple 22/32/44 and an 11/28 9 speed cassette .I find the top gear plenty high enough for Audax and bottom gets me up anything

Also rim brakes are fine .I can stop a tandem with 28 stone of us and a loaded trailer just fine with a pair of v brakes

” Would the Sora triple STI’s work with a mtb chainset?”

i use old 9 speed ultregas with an xt front mech and shimano mtb “touring” chainset 48 36 26 a little faffy to get cable tension correct and i use inline adjusters – i would give it a go directly with the sora front mech as seen a few people with a 105 working fine
I run a 34 – 12 on the back for lightweight credit card touring and find it fine for road and gravel

I run 1×10 38 front and praxis 11-40 out back. It’s good for most things but I travel, soft luggage, bicycle kit and days rather than weeks.

With more weight on board I would want lower gears for sure. I do have smaller chain rings but then obviously lose the other end. A double would be on my list in that case.

I have a 28/40 on the front and 11-34 on the rear (9 speed because I’m cheap). I spend a lot of time climbing in the lowest gear so think I’ll run a 24 granny on my next trip, but I have never felt the top end is lacking.

Teetosugars – Member

perfect for a big un

Well, until the next one eh Tony?

Nick, when you cycle between 5000 and 7000 miles per year, and don’t use a car, you tend to have a bit of spare cash to buy whatever bike you fancy, whenever you fancy.

oh, and just remind me…..how far did you ride last year, on you stable of 6 bikes? 😀

I just wrote something long and rambling and it got lost in the ether – I’d go as low as you can if you’re going touring heavily laden. Top end not so important really, but a triple will allow you to get the bottom end a bit lower, and that 1″ or 1.5″ could be 5% or so which is a useful amount.

Thanks for all the replies folks, plenty to think about.

PeterPoddy – Member
If you’re really actually going to tour (not just look as though you are, but actually just nip to the show now and then) then you can’t have gears too low.

Well, we do at the moment, no plans on stopping. 🙂
Not done anything outside the UK for a while, but Mrs S retires soon.

I’ve never seen a fake tourer, to be honest, although the bloke at Carradice told me they’re doing very well with the fashionable crowd at the mo.

Can you imagine it?
Dawes tattoos, 15 page posts on the coolest way to mount a Marathon plus, home made organic arse lard recipies, Sainsbury or Waitrose carrier bag to stop your new (honey coloured, obviously) Brooks sagging in the rain?
😀

I’m currently building a new Genesis Tour de Fer (the new flat barred one) and I’ll be using the same gears I had on my 26in bike and see how I go.

They DO look nice, but I’d hate the flat bar.
The standard spec is ace for the price, just needs a rear light.
Even the wheels seem decent.
How are you speccing it yourself?

Ton, is that as new one?
Thought you’d got a Vaya. 🙂

Nice looking bars on that btw, what are they?
I’m sticking with drops as I know they’ll work.
With flats, I just seem to shift everything around and never get really comfy.

it is a new one mate. bars are jones bends.

Comfy?
And if you don’t mind, which wheels and brakes did you go for?

I’m going safe with BB7’s but the TRP Hylex are interesting.

Looking at 36 hole Sputnik’s for the wheels – XT rear hub, SP front.
Spa recommend Exal LX17’s, but the Sput’s are just that bit wider and tougher.

yes, nice and wide and comfy. wheels are sputnik on xt. bombproof.
oh and bb7 too.

Ta!

Rusty, what brake levers are you using?

So, going the traditional route, I’d planned on going 26/36/48 with a an 11-36 10 speed MTB cassette.
Not keen on brifters, so 10 speed Shimano road bar end shifters and a 9 speed MTB mech.

Very close to my setup, Shimano XT trekking chainset, 11-36, 9 speed XT long cage mech, 5700/5703 Roadie STIs and front mech. BB7 brakes. 29er wheels on a Fargo. Only excessive lunches and breakfasts followed immediately by 1:3s have had me pushing loaded.

I reckon mechanical STIs are so reliable these days as to not be a worry in terms of breakdown, and you never know if you have a crash/baggage handler what you’re going to mangle, it could mess up a bar-end shifter as easily as a brifter. You might have to bodge your way to the next bike shop, but with mobiles and internet you’re likely to be able to track down new parts on a trip, as long as you don’t have anything too exotic or incompatible.

Tektro RL520’s.
Work with V’s or the MTB BB7’s.

Super cheap.

MLC, I might go hydro discs at some point, hence the lack of love for STI’s.
Pricy too.

I just put those (RL520’s) on my drop bar 1992 Kona Fire Mountain. Seem okay.

My 700cc ‘tourer’ currently has road BB7s, 5703 shifters and front mech, a 105 crank with a 26T ring replacing the 30 (so 50/39/26), an XT 9s rear mech with a 11-34 cassette. I suspect that with a load on I’ll never use the 50T big ring so could go smaller, but that might bring problems with shifting.

ey DO look nice, but I’d hate the flat bar.
The standard spec is ace for the price, just needs a rear light.
Even the wheels seem decent.
How are you speccing it yourself?

I wouldn’t tour on drop bars. I’ve done one light tour round Belgium on them and hated it.
I’m going 3×9 as that’s cheap, matches my wife’s bike, and I already have it. LX Trekking hydraulic brakes with 180mm rotors front and rear, Raleigh stainless steel rack, 36h XT rear hub, Exposure Dynamo front, DT Swiss rims. Busch & Müller Luxos U light with integrates USB charger. Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres, SKS guards Pro and Bontrager finishing kit, Brooks saddle. Still waiting for the frame though, it’s just gone back ANOTHER week. 🙁

Why not sti? Cable discs are grand. Bar end shifters are crap imo

Thread about gearing for touring

Apologies if I missed this but what about mtb shifters mounted on the inner top of the drop bars?

Didn’t the pinnacle ramin have not expensive hydraulic drop bar levers that had no shifter built into it?

For me?
8/9/10 speed STI means no possibility of a switch to hydros without a change to bar end levers some time down the line.

11 speed STI’s?
Don’t appear to be able to give me the gears I need as they don’t seem to index with MTB cassettes.
Beside, I can’t afford them.

Ed, TRP Hylex look good – brifter free hydro road discs.
I’m sure there’ll be more along soon.

I’ve been riding bar-end shifters on my Arkose 2 and my other drop-bar tourer sort of bike (2×10 MTB) for long enough now that I find them easier to use from the drops than STIs, or at least as easy and natural as to make no odds. I’m on the drops much more on one of the bikes as the bars aren’t slammed. If I’m on the hoods I’m not concerned about moving a hand to shift, if anything it’s been good to move my hands more on longer rides or longer trips. Plus I like the slightly less bulky and more solid, poitive feel of a simple brake lever. It’s all working well. I won’t say ‘better’, just perfectly acceptable for a bike that isn’t being raced.