Its here[img]http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6108080/[/img]

So I have put together my first build, its done on the very very cheep using all second hand and old used parts. Total cost is just less then £220. So its not the most exotic of SS but I like the way it’s turned out.
It was supposed to be a 69er but could find a used 29” front wheel cheep, so I’m still on the look out for one of those.
Going for first SS ride today..

Only issue I can see with it is the chain line is a bit off, the chain some times will rub on the lip of the roller. Front chain ring is mounted on the outside of the crank as this is the only place it will fit, there no room to do anything with the BB, so I may have to tweak the chain tensioner with a hammer.

I raelly like that!

Is it a 14″ 456?

It was sold to me as a 16” inbred 456. I must admit I haven’t measured it.

Nice one.

looks good, like a riders bike rather that a tart’s love toy

My chain line is off too. I sliced up an old inner tube and stretched a bit over the roller to give it some grip. It seems to work OK.

A chainline that out will probably result in terrible wear and breakage. Can you move the freehub spacers to align the cog with the chain ring a bit better?

I’m not sure why you cant fit the chainring on the inside of the crank spider – one normally has a chain ring there. That might help

I’d consider removing another chain link and have the pulley push the chain up – it keeps it on better as the chain gets longer.

Can you fit a 29″ wheel in that fork. I’d stick with the 26″

I also really like it, esp the colour and the flat bars 🙂

When I built up my Scandal as a SS I had to take one of the spacers off of the drive side BB to get the chain to line up and has been fine ever since.

I am selling a 29er front wheel and fork that would be perfect for that build:
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-29er-front-wheel-29er-rigid-steel-fork-hope-rear-wheel

Sterling job!!!

Hang on!? A series of compliments about a build… On STW… And not one comment on the unplastered breeze-blocks, marked floor paint, seat-post height or non lined up logos and valves?!

It’s like I don’t recognise any of you any more!

Nice bike btw 🙂

Thanks for the very kind words, its defiantly a ride, get muddy and through back in the garage and forget about until next time sort of bike. On riding today the 16t rear sprocket may have to change for an 18t. I really didn’t appreciate how steep some of the ups are around here.

The chain ring is bit of an odd one, using an FSA DH 32t ring with a Truvativ triple crank (no spacers in the BB to move), the chain ring fits nice on the outer but bolt tabs are about 1- 0.5mm to long to fit into the middle. I have considered taking the grinder to the chainring.

buzz-lightyear not sure what you mean by “I’d consider removing another chain link and have the pulley push the chain up – it keeps it on better as the chain gets longer”.

Soma rich: I have replied to you post, very interested.

You all misted the empty bear fridge, tools all over the sideboard work bench, DVD stored in garage and a general disregard for my power tools. 🙂

the empty bear fridge

Spare us the grizzly details…

The chain ring is bit of an odd one, using an FSA DH 32t ring with a Truvativ triple crank (no spacers in the BB to move), the chain ring fits nice on the outer but bolt tabs are about 1- 0.5mm to long to fit into the middle. I have considered taking the grinder to the chainring.

Sounds like you need some short chain ring bolts. There are 2 sizes normal and ones for running a single ring.

I really like that! Think the flat bars work very well indeed. Possible rigid fork? Lighter and cheaper

these bits

Its not the bolts, I have some shortened ones fitted. It’s the part of the chain ring that locates it on to the spider that are to long. Its the bits sticking out.

Bear …. Its a famous northern beer 😉

I have some white 29” ridge forks and hopefully a wheel very soon.

I have the same chainring and ended up filing some off it to fit it to an XT crank.