Always had 140mm bikes, now got one with 150mm both ends but can’t help think that I now have too much travel, the extra 10mm seemed to be overkill (trail centres peaks etc). Now thinking of going to a 100mm frame with 120mm forks. Is this wise? Will I regret? Not into jumps etc but do like riding rocky technical stuff.

Xc bike: i’ve gone from 140mm forks to 100, it’s better*, even (especially?) on techy stuff.

Dh bike: i’ve gone from 180 to 160, it’s better*, more or less everywhere.

(*cheaper forks, less divey, less ‘tall’ feeling)

(and i am hopelessly slow)

As long as the geo still fits in with your riding style you’ll prob be fine. You might not be as fast through the rough or not be able to just hold on and straight line your way through the rock gardens.

But I’m sure it won;t too bad. try out a few demo bikes first see if you get on.

I’ve gone from 150 to 120 – Intense Tracer to ASR-5.

I’d agree with the “you don’t need that much travel” crowd, but also that its about the bike also. I won’t be the only one that tells you an ASR-5 feels like more than 120mm travel for instance due its capability.

I ride the same trails as folks with 160mm just as well as they do; also I have collegues with 100mm that do the same.

In general though my experience its lots of travel requires less expertise and vice versa it lots of travel flatters your skills

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/skill-not-suspension

Slight reduction in travel from the 575 to the ASR5C, but I kept the 140mm forks. Works brilliantly, but then it’s a much more modern frame, newer shock etc. I don’t think I’d go back to 100mm through.

I’ve been thinking the opposite. With modern forks and the different modes and increased stiffness what’s the point in short travel unless you want a bike for a very specific purpose like cross country racing. It means you can have a one bike for all mountain. Unless it is significantly compromising the bike for the purpose you want it for then you may as well have the travel than not.

I switch from 140 to 100 to rigid all the time, you just instinctually either lift the fork or find the right line depending on what you’re riding, you’ll only intentionally hit big roots at high speed on a 100 or rigid once, jeez it shocks your whole body, not great for a previous broken scaphoid either.

Now thinking of going to a 100mm frame with 120mm forks.

Are you nuts?
That will be totally mad to ride after 150mm.
I mean come on ,a whole 30,yes 30 mill.
You may well be risking death and destruction .
DON’T DO IT .

😆

I went from 130mm to zero.
🙂

I went from 150 both ends (pitch) to 110 rear 120 up front – Cannondale Rush. Much preferred the Rush, it’s just quicker, more agile and more fun. Okay, there are some trails I occasionally ride where you can feel it getting hung up a little more, but I don’t think it gets slowed down. However, like takisawa2 here am very close to going to zero for a bit…

Went from 150mm both ends to a 100mm hardtail. Though I wouldn’t mind a 120mm fs xc bike.

No such thing as zero, you probably get at least 5-10mm on a 30 psi fat tyre upfront.

I went from 130mm to zero.

How did the hipster burn his tongue?

He drank his? coffee before it was cool

😉

I’ve got a nice set of 80mm forks that I’d love to put on something for a bit of heavy SS / light jumping duties but everyone seems to be going bigger.

I reduced my forks from 150 to 140 and they feel better.

Cy from cotic said he’d built up a full suspension frame with short travel but long travel geo and it was too much fun or something like that.

… you’ll only intentionally hit big roots at high speed on a 100 or rigid once, jeez it shocks your whole body…

Technical explanation please? This could be why I feel my SIDS are wooden compared to my F120 FIT on the FS, I just wouldn’t have expected 20mm to make that much (plush to wooden comparison) difference.

Edit: – I’ve been down the setup route a gazzillion times so you can exclude that…

@ Kryton57 – so roots usually come in groups, or at least a pair, anyone can rumble over those on a 140+ with no real issue unless they’re wet, on a 100 or rigid your gonna want to yank up the bars and clear them, for speed and the sake of the wrists.