Following on from my earlier thread. ZZR600, 1997, 24K miles. V heavy clutch drag, to the point that engaging first gear and not rolling forward/stalling when cold is impossible. Have changed the clutch cable, and adjusted every which way. Have changed the oil to Halfords mcycle oil, 10 40, semi synth. The problem much less severe when warm.

Now, over the last couple of months, and this is when the problem has arisen, I’ve had to use my bike for a 4 mile commute that is fast A road with only 3 stops. The oil sight glass is v condensation/milky even with new oil. Could the drag be prompted by frequent short trips? Would a long blast (work preventing it at the mo) muck it all out?

Or would thinner oil help?

Or does it sound like the clutch / basket is knackered?

Many thanks

he oil sight glass is v condensation/milky even with new oil.

Have you checked the water?

Milky oil is is either condensation (removed by a very long run) or water gettign in (head gasget failiure). I’d be tempted to do an hour or so’s run, then put another new filter/oil change as the water/oil emulsion wont be doing the engine any favours.

me thinks the later is the heavy clutch issue. The milkyness is due to a short commute. Solution:

change basket and plates and move further away from work, preferably down some quiet winding country lanes with grippy tarmac.

I’d go with a thinner oil for the winter and see how it goes

Milky oil from short journeys – is this a widely known phenomenon? We use our 600cc bike engined car for about a mile at a time (and have done about 15 times so far) and have no milky oil?

Did the issues start when you serviced it / adjusted the clutch?

Have you checked if there is a pushrod adjustment as well as a cable adjustment?

Myself I doubt its the basket – as IME that causes the clutch not to be smooth but will still release if everything else is right.

It the distant recesses of my mind, I seem to recall that engine was a bit choosy over the oil used with clutch issues being the symptom

have an ask on one of the Kawasaki forums

Thanks all. The problem started after replacing the clutch cable.

The milky oil is, I’m sure/hope a function of far too many short runs – hopefully the weekend will sort that!

Thanks for the tip re the pushrod adjustment behind the sprocket case – completely unaware of that so will have a look. Anyone able to give a few more clues as to adjusting /checking this.

Tips all really appreciated! Thanks

if the problem started after changing the clutch cable then its most likely associated with that

The ‘milky’ oil IS caused by short runs, a water cooled engine requires at least 8 miles to warm up fully, only then will the condensation burn off.

Doesn’t the clutch cable on a ZZR go to the clutch side, not into the drive side of the engine? (could be wrong here, it’s been a while) if it does then you have no pushrod, so no adjustment there. If the clutch arm is on the clutch cover then check to see what angle it’s at, it wants setting so it’s just slightly greather than 90 degrees with the clutch cable holding boss, this will give you the greatest leverage. Also where is the span adjuster set on your clutch lever? Set it so the lever is furthest from the bars, it isn’t meant to alter the action of the clutch but it does.

A drive chain that’s too tight will make the problem feel worse too.

Don’t put thinner oil in, it really won’t help your cause in the long run.

Milky oil is almost certainly the short runs. Can’t be avoided though, without changing your use. I remember my mate’s ninja always had the custard gather in the sight window even though if you drew some oil from the sump it was fine (likewise my SV used to always have it gather around the filler cap and on the plastic clutch cover)

Now, I don’t know your model but is the lever heavier than usual? (worth mentioning it’s hard to tell, if it’s gone heavy over time, only by comparing with another bike could I tell). Most modern cable clutches use a wee worm-drive lifter and with Kwaks and Suzukis these have a habit of shedding their ballbearings, which doesn’t stop the clutch from working entirely but does make it work badly.

Thanks all. The clutch cable goes to the drive side. It’s an E1 model. And any clues on what to look for re worm driver?

Fwiw, coming home tonight, it did feel like intermittmently sticking plates. Would a good run ‘de-stick’ them?

Would a good run ‘de-stick’ them?

Consider the milky gunge on the inside of your sight glass, there’s a good chance the sight glass isn’t the only place it’s lurking 😉

Aus – Member

Thanks all. The clutch cable goes to the drive side. It’s an E1 model. And any clues on what to look for re worm driver?

Aye, it’ll look foobarred But bear in mind I don’t know how your bike’s clutch actuates, it might be something else entirely. Any pics of the engine-end of the clutch cable, and the actuator it’s attached to?

Can the milky gunge cause the plates to stick? Will a good run clear out the gunge? Worth changing the oil again?

Just in case anyone’s interested – had to do a 50mile trip today, and clutch as sweet as by half way through.

Am guessing all the short trips had gummed it up. Fingers crossed it’s cleared it out

Just seen this. Short trips = engine not warming up = condensation in cases = mayo in your sight glass.
Solution, ride faster, harder and longer.