I have a lovely set of 2014 Mavic Cossmax SX wheels on my Orange 5 (Maxle back end) but seem to be having an issue with the preload on the rear bearings coming loose during a ride. Anyone else had the same issue, how did you solve it IE how did you prevent the preload adjuster from slackening itself off? I did note when the wheels first came to me that the preload was such that the freehub was slow turning/draggy but also read in Mavics blurb that this was a ‘feature’ of the preload.
My first thought is a touch of loctite (the one in the pile tick type dispenser that I use on all my bike bolts that I don’t want to come loose of their own accord).
Over to STW…..and no I’m not selling them 😆

Ah apologies found previous thread on this matter……..
Anyone want some light use only Crossmax SXs 😆

You’re overtightening them

That simple really – I guess you tightened it till the play went? That’s wrong, as the play disappears when the bearing is loaded.

Bike off ground, good spin on the wheel, now tighten the bearing adjuster with the little plastic tyre lever/pin spanner till you see it begin to drag/slow, now back it off quarter to a half turn and job done, your bearing tension is now set correctly and won’t loosen off

What ninfan said is correct, and worked fine on three of the four sets of Mavic wheels I have had. however, I found on one set of Crossmaxes this did not work. Having discussed with a Mavic dealer via Canyon’s tech service I was advised to get to the point suggested above and then dribble a small amount of loctite (the blue one) on the thread outside the nut to hold the adjustment nut steady. it hasn’t loosened since, nor have the bearings worn early in the 20 months since.

Cheers for that ninfan, that’s how tight they came from the factory but when it was noticeably loose I adjusted it up off the bike (not realising it should be done on the bike with wheel in situ) and I didn’t do it anywhere near as tight as the factory setting as I didn’t like the drag it caused. I guess it’s more noticeable with Hope floating twin rotors as any little wheel deflection causes pad/disc contact noise. It’s taken two descent rides for a tiny amount of play to show ie Antur uplift and a lap of Follow the Dog and Monkey trail last night so I’ll set to doing it properly before digging any deeper for knackered bearings.

Thanks jimw, if all else fails I may resort to a touch of loctite. It does seem to be a well documented Mavic issue, be interested as to ride weights to see if that the link…….I’m on the big boned side to say the least but within Mavics weight limit for the wheelset 😆

you’ll never get it right, depending on heat/cold they will need adjusting every other ride, shite wheels the only good thing about mavics crossmax/st/sx/xl etc is the ease of use tubeless, the rest of it is absolute cack

be interested as to ride weights

I weigh 90kg with kit

you’ll never get it right, depending on heat/cold they will need adjusting every other ride, shite wheels the only good thing about mavics crossmax/st/sx/xl etc is the ease of use tubeless, the rest of it is absolute cack

My experince has been different. Strong, light wheels that remain true and take a lot of use. On all the sets I have, I have only had the one issue with pre-load as outlined above, a couple of the older style have needed new freehub bushes after a lot of use, but this is an easy and cheap job to fix. The new ones don’t have this problem.
The oldest set I currently have are 26″ 2009 crossmax ST and they are still in great condition, the newest the are early 2013 29er crossmax ST mentioned above

I personally like Mavic wheels too, I do have spare Hope Pro 2 egos that came on the bike for any long winded repairs that I know I can tubeless set up. I’m going to get a nice set of Mavics for the road bike too to replace the American Classics that are on it as the freehubs already slipping on them and they feel dead to ride on compared to my last set of Mavic road wheels.

there should be a slight knock in the rear when its done up ok. no knock is too tight

there should be a slight knock in the rear when its done up ok. no knock is too tight