MXComps are THE SHIZZLE!
bullet proof, and can be adjusted to the ends of the earth if youve got a certain amount of mechanical sympathy and dont mind getting the bathroom oily.
though admitadly they do lack anti pedal bob valving or lockout, but ime, on forks of that price range, its the lockout that explodes in a fireball first and makes the fork useless. better to do without.
compression can be adjusted by mixing oil to the consitency that works best for you (heavier oil slows it down, lighter speeds it up)
rebound is THEN adjusted via the internal adjuster, for which you need the long brass wand jobby, and you can make it either a bit slower, or a bit faster than the compression.
spring rate and curve can be djusted by fiddling the oil levels an air pressures in both legs. which is kind of tricky to explain:
higher oil levels, mean the curve ramps up quicker, higher pressure raises or lowers the spring (obviously)
by fiddling the two, for example, you can have twitchy linear top stroke, and then at 60% travel, have it ramp up quite quickly to stop it blowing through the last 30% of travel and bottoming out.
or example 2, on my lasses bike, who doesnt weigh much, and doesnt ride hard, we lowered the oil levels right down* so that its very sensitive and linear, so she gets all 105mm of travel, without having to batter down descents.
(*just make sure the oil is above the valving)
at the very least, if your 90kg, i would agree with changing the oil to a 10wt or 15wt oil to slow it down.
easy to do!, take the top caps off with a 21mm socket, and pour it out!!
cycle the fork up and down a few times with it upside down to clear out the valves, and then put in the same quantity as removed, of heavier oil!.
(if you dont want to measure it, the quantity is, with the fork compressed, crown down to the seals, to approximatly 3cm below the level of the threads of the top caps (iirc)
you can make up intermediate oil weights if you feel the need: 1 part 10wt and 1 part 30wt oil = 20wt oil etc etc