Been running the slightly older XT for a while (M780?) I love them, they were super awesome, easy to work on, super reliable, effective.
Anyhoo I requested a brake bleed, and Shimano mechs kindly replaced the M780 reservoirs with M8000 units, for free, at an event – I was well pleased.

Since I’ve had the M8000 the brakes are shite. The bite point moves in and out, sometimes the lever hits the bar before the pads bite. Obvs this is causing some concern. I’ve tried bleeding them in situ, which has always worked out for me in the past, but now they are only ok for a ride or two hen it reoccurs.

Anyone had similar experiences or got solutions?

The first bleed I did on my M8000s was crap. I thought I’d done it right but had similar problems to those you’ve experienced. A proper bleed, following the Shimano instructions to the letter completely cured it.

Take wheel out and compress lever to move piston out ( not too far) then rebleed and your bite point will be better

I had the old XT’s also and upgraded to M8000. They are terrible and within a few weeks were sent back to shimano to have both levers replaced. I originally took them to my local bike shop to try and get them fixed but they contacted shimano directly and they didn’t ask any questions or for any proof of purchase from CRC so in my opinion they know theirs an issue with them . Since then they haven’t been too bad but they are poor compared to the older version. My mate has had exactly the same issues and has also had a lever replaced, also under warranty. I would not buy these again and recommend you try your LBS to see if they can assist with getting the levers replaced under warranty by going directly to Shimano.

I read that a new version of XT brakes are out. They’ve apparently addressed the issues that many have had with the M8000 re. inconsistent lever feel by going back to the previous master cylinder design.

The reason Shimano brakes fail and are inconsistent in my experience is because of the cheap and nasty Shimano hoses and fittings. All my troubles with them stopped after fitting Goodridge hoses to both M8000 and M785’s and even an M8000 lever/M785 calliper combination.

Just bought a 1×11 group from Wiggle. Shimano brakes in the past have always come fully built and bled, these are in parts. Makes me wonder if mine are going to have the same issues.
Even the review set MBR had, had to be sent back

Anyone with a set of these who is really fed up with them can have my address. I’ll even pay postage.

I guess I’ve had to keep on top of bleeding with mine, but they’ve worked brilliantly on the trail when I’ve bled them as above with the pistons pumped out a bit to get a more instant bite.
Effectively you’re slightly over filling the system. Shouldn’t need to do it but meh….

To those that say a bleed cured the problem – did the lever reach adjustment screw then work? The bite point on my new xt8000 front is mismatched v the rear. This combined with the complete lack of
Modulation has meant I’ve basically given up braking for technical sections round here(south and north downs). Although I’m going faster than ever at some point I’m going to need brakes that work.

lever reach adjustment screw then work?

I’m thinking you mean the bite point adjuster screw? the lever reach knob works just fine.
The bite point adjuster screw has always been purely decorative IMHO.
I’ve gotten very similar lever feel across front ‘n’ rear by using the pumped out pistons bleed method and after that I don’t think you could use more power than they have given. Very good.

I’ve basically given up braking for technical sections

So the M8000’s have improved your riding technique. Great! 😀

Yes I meant bite point adjust.
So basically in the 16 years since I bought a new MTB, people now accept that a £160 brake set doesn’t have bite point adjust that works and the 11 speed chain falls off every time you stop and start on a steep climb – for example at the many gates on climbs round here.
Its a measure of how much fun I’m having on my Hei hei trail dl that I’m able to overlook these problems. Right wheres that first world problem thread….

Bite point adjuster works fine if the brakes have been properly bled. The screw increases or decreases the volume of the master cylinder.

If you take off the bleed port bolt and o-ring, you should see oil (unless the bleed is awful). Unwind the free stroke screw, and you’ll see the oil level drop as the master cylinder volume increases.

Bleed with the free stroke screw all the way out (when the blade stops moving outwards) – it helps the bleed procedure.

After you’re done, re-fit the bleed port bolt and o-ring, then adjust the free stroke screw to suit. Turning it clockwise reduces the master cylinder volume, and so oil is pushed into the system (similar to over-filling) so stroke is reduced.

The fact that the blade also moves with the free stroke adjust partially masks the changes it makes, but if you compensate with the reach adjust so that the starting point of the lever is the same in each case, then the difference should be clear.

As above, a bad bleed will reduce its effect.

Early M8000s had some issues, but most complaints I see about variable bite point is just down to lazy bleeds.

Ok thats good news. Now if you could solve the back pedal chain drop issue as well that’d be great.

That one’s been well covered in the past, but some seem to suffer from it, others don’t. Some back pedal in 1st gear, others don’t. Adjusting chainline in with chainring spacers for those on chainset with spiders and chainrings fixes for those that can. If you have a DM ring, then that’s a bit trickier.

I’m guessing you mean that the chain is dropping down the casssette a sprocket or two rather than coming off? Never heard of the chain coming off – that would be a pain in the hoop.

Now if you could solve the back pedal chain drop issue as well that’d be great.

Go Eagle 😉 No back-pedal dropping on that bad boy (yes it does require a mortgage however).

Yeah drops down the sprocket – haven’t “dropped” a chain since I went single ring front and in that respect its better but with significant compromise. Every gate on a climb is met with a grinding metal noise and some occasional swearing. I’ve taken all the spacers out(rf cinch cranks and bb) and tweaked the b screw endlessly with some improvement but top 2 rings still do it.

I’ll get eagle in 2028 when its affordable.

I had the wandering bitepoint issue on the rear brake, seems it doesn’t like being set up with the lever close to the bar.
Right now I have it further from the bar than I’d like, but is seems to work as expected. The bitepoint is set as short as possible/default.

Top ring only here – and only on 1x. Works fine on the 2x setup.